Stator on a Roadking

[gman628]

First off, I want to say Hi to everyone, I've been around the GBO forums for a couple years but didn't make it down this far on the boards until lately.  Need to start a thread with pics of your current ride, I think that would be cool, maybe even one of your favorite gun with it. I don't even want to get into the hunter that bikes vs. biker that hunts thing, I just want to enjoy both as seperate sports and enjoy both as long as I can.

Anyway, I'm getting ready to start my research on changing the stator out on my 01 RK.  Needs to be done before I can put it back on the road and since I've been unemployed for 10 months, I can't afford to have the stealer do it.  I did the cam tensioners last year and that went very smooth, easier than I thought it would be.  I was wondering if anyone has done the stator on your dresser yourself, and if it's a pain to do.  I haven't even opened up the shop manual to see what's invovled yet and the special tools I need to pick up, all I know is I have to pull the primairy.  Just thought I'd ask since I'm here right now and need to start thinking about it.  I have a few Harley sites I use to puruse that I need to get back on.

Well here's my ride anyway, its an 01 with 50K on it and hopefully get another 50K before I have to spend $$ on a new one.  I'd like to see yours

Thanks for any advise you can offer.
Gary

[Glanceblamm]

Helped a friend do this once but the engine was the 100 CI Rev Tech. The procedure was pretty much the same though and the hardest part was getting the nut off the front primary sprocket. If he would have had an air or electric impact, this would have not been a problem at all.

We had to loosen the chain of course but pull the clutch hub along with that front sprocket (left hand nut on the clutch) and we removed both as one assembly. The Stator change out was easy at this point. I would recommend a manual that you could possibly borrow or download if possible but the job was not a bad one as said.

Before you begin you need to trouble shoot that stator and perhaps you have done so already. If not, your battery needs to be fully charged and then you start the bike. You then unplug the stator lead from the front of the case and put your multi-meter on the leads with the meter set on the AC scale. The output should be 16volts for every 1,000 RPM.

In my friends case, this test produced nothing and the bike ran ok but then rough as the battery was soon exhausted and stranded him out on the road.

[gman628]

Thanks for the reply glanceblamm, I do have a shop manual for the bike, in fact a shop manual is the first accessory I buy for everything I own, I just haven't gotten around to doing the research yet and it's always good to hear from someone thats done it.  Did the troubleshooting on the stator and all checked good, but it hasn't completely taken a crap yet, last year whenever we took the bike out for any length of time, I would get a burning insulation smell coming from the front left side of the bike, after pulling over and shutting it down, it would cool and then be fine when re-started(for awhile anyway).  We checked out all the external wiring and all was ok.  Knowing that at least six of my buddies with dressers around the same age have all had to change their stators and one guy more than once, we came to the conclusion that mine is probably on it's last leg.  If I had a full dresser, I could watch the voltage gauge when it happens and see if the bike stops charging when I smell the burning smell, but don't have that option on the RK. 

I just don't want to get out and not be able to start it someday when I'm in the middle of BFE.  Did that once on a sporty when the regulator went out and I drained the battery trying to get it home, ended up putting it on a trailer for the last 30 miles.

I wouldn't think the process of changing the Rev Tech stator would be much different...depends on the output of the stator, I know the fulldresser has like a 43 or 45 amp output and a puller is needed to get it off were as the RK has like a 36 amp output and I'm told you can seperate it by hand.  Anyway, It doesn't sound to complicated by what you've said, Thanks.

Gary

[hillbill]

have you got your stator replaced yet?just wondering how it went and if everything turned out ok?J&P cycles has a pretty good tech forum on their website if yu need any tips.

[gman628]

I ended up paying a riding buddy to do it, he's done 3 others on dressers and I recently started a new job working 7 - 10hr days for a while.  I really wanted to do it myself for the experience, but with this work schedule, I would have never got it done.  It's done now and I hope all is good, haven't ridden yet, need to have the salt rained off first.

Gary

[Glanceblamm]

At least the bike will be ready when you are Gary and now you can spend a little time detailing it each day while waiting on the good weather.

Perhaps you can pull that primary cover another day to install the likes of an auto primary chain tensioner? My Brother put one on his RoadKing and it worked very well.

[hillbill]

i do like the hayden auto primary chain tensioner on my 97 evo.

[Glanceblamm]

Good to look around while inside there and the primary on the Roadking was mainly pulled for a clutch inspection.

Not really a whole lot to it with the manual in hand. Clutch was just a sandwich of seven metal disk w/the asbestos (or brake material disk's) in between. The condition of the factory scoring on the metal disk's said that it was ok to just install the new asbestos disk's. A dealership will charge $400 for this work and that is probably an old price.

Other work (besides the auto chain tensioner) was to install a pair of round disk's on the hub & front sprocket assembly. These had a raised circular lip with each being filled with mercury. The idea was that the centrifical force of the running engine would place the mercury in the areas needed to help balance (or smooth out) the primary drive train. With the bike up and running, these disk's did not appear to hurt anything but did not noticeably help anything either...Were probably not worth the $80 (at that time) cost.