Thoughts on Beretta SA revolvers?

[Sharps-Nut]

What is everyones thoughts on Beretta single action revolvers.     Is there any short comings in this revolver I should be looking for.  How much should I allow a friend on trade and what is the approx used value of the gun if I were not appy with the trade.  Any insights would be appreciated.   

[texagun]

They are made by Uberti in Italy and some on the SASS forums have reported problems with broken springs very early in their life.  They are not as strong or rugged as Rugers but are somewhat closer to the original Colt design than Rugers.  The Beretta Stampede has a firing pin safety similar to Rugers and can be safely carried with 6 rounds.  The other Uberti models require you to carry an empty chamber under the hammer and thus are 5-shooters.  The used value of the gun you are considering would depend on the model and the condition.  It could be anywhere from $300 to $500.  You can buy a new Beretta Stampede around here for $495.  They are beautiful guns.

[44 Man]

Texagun is right.  It's tough call on used value as it depends much on the model the Stampeed is.  The Beretta is a excellent revolver, I personally have handled several and have heard of no problems.  They are made by Uberti (Beretta owns them) but seem to be built to higher standards.  If you are able to come to an agreememt on the price that satisfies both of you, I'm sure you will not regret your purchase.  44 Man.

[jager]

Sharps - 44man is exactly right! I have a Stampede in a 7.5 barrel and it is a "deluxe" model of the Uberti in all respects.

[Sharps-Nut]

Thank you gentleman.   Going on what he said its likely a stampede but who knows.   Maybe they marked them so I would know what I was getting, but I do remember he said it was stainless and real pretty.   I am not sure why we are dreaming we need or want what the other has but you know how those deals come along between friends.  My goal is to trade if it works for both, but more than anything be sure we are still friends when its over.  Thanks again.  SN

[Fotto]

I own 2, one new, one used.
Both suffer from the same problem (maybe the reason for the "deal" I got on the used one).
On both of them when loaded w/4 or more rounds and cocked quickly the cylinder will rotate past the locking notch. a slow cocking and they lock up as they should.
It is caused, in both of my cases, by the shape of the top of the bolt.

That said, and fixed, They both shoot very well.   

[44 Man]

I suggest you check the Berretta website to see all of the models.  They are all 'Stampede's, but differ in their finish from plain blue, to blue with fake case colors, to delux blue and real case colors and nickle.  All with vareing prices.  44 Man  

Foto: I'll send you a PM on how to fix that.

[jimster]

On both of them when loaded w/4 or more rounds and cocked quickly the cylinder will rotate past the locking notch. a slow cocking and they lock up as they should.

Same thing was wrong with my stampede, I sent it back and they fixed that.  Mine was also shooting quite a ways to the left, I sent a note with mine and asked as long as it was there if they could turn the barrel a bit and correct this, they sent me back a target with all the shots way to the left and said it was within their specs.     Their specs are way left I guess. 

You probably should send your revolver back if it skips a cylinder notch when cocking quickly, single actions are not much good if they skip a notch.
 

[Sharps-Nut]

We agreed to trade for the weekend and try one anothers wears.  It turned out to be a nickal plated stampede 4 5/8" barrel.  The barrel was horrible on that gun.  I cleaned for three hours and never got a perfect lead free bore.   Wish I knew  why it was so leaded. My fear is the nickel plating is coming off inside the bore causing a place for lead to grab.  Either way when I got 90% of it gone I tried it out.  7 grains unique 255 cast.  Shot about point of aim groups were ok for offhand and cold, like standing in 8" of fresh snow cold.      My feelings are mixed but believe I will pass due to questionalbe barrel.  My gun would bring 350-375.  I think I might be better served with selling it and going shopping cash in hand.  Not sure how durable the nickal plating would be and not sure how much I could get  out of it if I wanted out.   On the feel fit finish and function the gun is perfect, loved it.  But the bore scares me a little, it did remain fairly clean after my shooting 35 rounds out of it so maybe just more time scrubbing would produce a perfect bore.  But how does a bore get this bad?  Maybe a steady diet of jacketed then lead fired on top?  One last question what would a used stainless ruger vaquaro cost me?  Thanks SN

[texagun]

One last question what would a used stainless ruger vaquaro cost me?  Thanks SN

Around here, a used stainless Vaquero (either "old" or new model) would cost in the neighborhood of $400-$450.

[jimster]

Concerning the leaded barrel, I doubt anyone nickle plates the inside of a barrel.  Leading in the barrel is most often caused by the bullet not fitting properly,  might need some forcing cone work, not really sure, but if the cast bullet fits the cylinder, forcing cone, and barrel properly, leading is usually not a big issue. So the diameter of the cast bullet comes into play, along with the sizes of what I mentioned above.  To get a little bit of leading out I sometimes use Chor Boy solid copper pads.  Cut off a little patch of that, wrap it around your cleaning brush, and it scrapes the lead out with one or two passes.  Fast and easy.  A little bit of leading here and there is something most us put up with, but you should not have big streaks of it going down the bore, something needs to be changed if it's that bad.  Also, be sure what you think your looking at in the bore is lead.  

If it fit's, and functions, and shoots to point of aim with fixed sights, thse are the things I look for, and it's not all that easy to find a fixed sighted gun that shoots to POA....which is one more thing ya half to fix if you get one that does not.

Good luck

  

[Sharps-Nut]

I will try rhe chor boy.  I am not sure what I am looking at in there but is does not look normal.  It sure had lead, but if feared pits from black powder, or nickol coming off, something that would make the gun a pig to own.   The bore looked horrible and it would not wipe out.  Used shooters choice lead out and lots of scrubbing.  Seemed like there was just no getting of all of it. I miked the cylinder bore it was  .449.5 --.450.5 tough to get a perfect reading with digital calipers and not scratch the throat.  I placed a bullet sized at .452 in the throat of the barrel and it was went in part way telling me it had a decent lead shooter throat. Also tried it in the cylindr throats they would not fit without tapping them in and cutting a slight ring.  I personaly had some horrible commercial cast lead that screwed with my ruger blackhawk.  Maybe my bullets #2 alloy sized to .452 and lubed with alox will perform flawless.  Will clean and maybe sneak in a play tonight.

[jimster]

I didn't take in to consideration it could be black powder corrosion, that is not good either.  The cylinder may be a tad undersized if the measurements you took are close, they should be open enough to pop a 452 size bullet through there without a whole lot of trouble.  You should be able to drop in a cast bullet into the back of the cylinder and tap it out the front without a  lot of trouble, or pounding it out.  I would think the cylinder should be around 452.5 or around there somewhere.  Usually if the cyclinder is too tight, the bullet gets squeezed down before it hit the forcing cone, this is not a good deal and could cause leading.  Next time you get the chance, get a nice bright light in the bore, make sure it's dry, you can see better if it's not all shiney with a bunch of oil, and try to determine if your seeing streaks of lead or possibly pitting from someone shooting black powder and not cleaning it for awhile. If you think your barrel or cylinder is a problem at all, yes, buy something else.  You asked about the Ruger Vaquero, from what I've been hearing they have been opening up their cylinders due to feedback over the years, they are good tough guns if you go that way.  Let us know how things come out.

[Sharps-Nut]

Sorta thought a cast bullet should have went thru, but could not remember if that was so or not. I measured it with a good digital caliper and was careful so I am guessing the cylinder might be a little tight.  Tried to buy some chor boys at small mart last night failed. They had scotch bright brand and it said copper plated, scared me off.  I have a local smith with a bore inspection tool, might cost me 10 buck to get him to have a look but it could save me in the long run.  At this point my gun would sell outright in a pretty cloae run to what a new stampede would cost so my saving would be low, probably will pass.

[jimster]

Don't get copper plated stuff...if you use that, use "solid copper pads". 
Basically it's no different than using those lead removers where you pull a screen through the bore.  But a lot cheaper.  I don't use them much cause my bores don't get leaded much, but my forcing cones will get some lead there, the solid copper pads tears it right out quick.  Found the solid copper pads at my local grocery store. 

Whatever single action you buy, good luck. 

Jim

[Sharps-Nut]

Thank you Jim for all the help.  I got about 4 hours to decide to pass or trade. Best I can figure I will have 300-325 if I trade.  Not bad but certainly no bargain. If I sold my rifle,  I could go shop with 350-400 in my pocket and hope for a bargain.  With the weird market of used often bringing new or near new price its a crap shoot on if you could cruise the shows and pick up a single action in that price range.   I think I will flip my lucky quarter and let it make the call. SN