Author Topic: Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds  (Read 1353 times)

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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« on: December 22, 2002, 09:12:21 AM »
What I do with my Lymans is sit them on the top edge of the pot as it comes up to temp.  Keep them closed as you do this.  Usually I get good bullets right out of the gate.  Don't put them in the melted metal though.
With my Lee ones I just start casting--don't have to wait as they are aluminum.  Down side it they get overheated quicker and have to give the a rest every so often so they can cool--otherwise I get frosted bullets--doesn't effect them other than looks but would rather have the shiny ones.
Hope this helps
Walt
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Offline hammerhead357

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pre-heating moulds
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2002, 03:32:46 PM »
Turk, I don't know if this qualifies as the fastet way to pre heat but I use an electric hot plate with a 5/8 in steel plate sitting on it. The plate is 6"x6". I turn it on at the same time I turn on the pots and I keep a bullet of the same type of metal that I am casting sitting in the center of the plate. If the bullet slumps or melts turn down the temp. of the hot plate. I have used this method to pre-heat 8 and 10 cavity moulds for 18 years and have never warped a mould but it could happen if you don't watch the thing.  I usually get perfect bullets on the first cast doing this.  Wes

Offline Omaha Poke

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Pre-heating molds
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2002, 08:20:54 PM »
Turk, I don't worry too much about pre-heating my molds whether they are cast iron (lyman), aluminium, or brass.  I just set them on the edge of the pot, and when the alloy starts to melt, move them so they don't get molten lead cooked on.  Start to pour bullets, and reject the first four or five castings.  Keep rejecting them untill they start to look  perfect, or at least the way you want them to look.  

I have sometimes rejected as many as the first 10 -12 castings from a mold, especially if I have just cleaned and reconditioned it.  Don't get discouraged.  All the bullets you have just tried to cast that were not perfect, just drop back in the pot and keep pouring.  One thing that you have to realize is that some of us are ladle pour guys, and then there are the new fangled types who bottom pour.  It makes a big difference in the way you flux, the way you pour, even the way you hold your mold.  So be sure to state which type of pot you are casting from when you pose a ? to the forum.  Some of us will answer according to the way we cast, not thinking that you or others may be doing it differently.  Merry CHRISTmas, Omaha.
Randy Ruwe

Offline Lloyd Smale

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2002, 12:12:13 AM »
Ive preheated molds by sticking the corner in the hot lead for years and have never had a problem with  my molds because of it.
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Offline Turk

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2002, 03:02:58 PM »
Thanks for the info.  I too place my two cavity moulds on the edge of the pot and usually after 10 casts I'm getting good bullets.  The 4-6 is a different story.

Hammerheads post is very interesting which  I think is an excellent idea.  I'll have to try it.

Guys have a Merry Christmas and please remember to pray for our service men and women around the world.

Turk
In God I trust all others bring data.
If you know you're going to a gunfight take a rifle.
Life Member 1/50th Infantry Association (Vietnam)
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Offline hammerhead357

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pre-heating moulds
« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2002, 03:50:03 PM »
Turk if you try my method be advised to keep a watch on the hot plate. I have had to thermostat stick while I was out of the shop and walk back in and smell hot wood, the handles were getting very hot. But like I said I have never warped a mould. I think it might be possible though.
  I like the fact that most of the time I get good bullets on the first cast..

Wes

Offline sundogg1911

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2003, 09:02:51 AM »
I use a propane stove (From an old camper) at low heat. I usually set the mould directly on one of the burners. be very carefull not to bring the temp. up too quickly or you can warp the mould. also keep the handles away from the flame. 8) I have tried setting the mould on the lead pot (I use a Lee production pot) but the 4 cavity moulds dont seem to heat evenly this way.

Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2003, 09:29:17 AM »
When I put my 4- & 6-cav molds on the top of my Lee pot I have to put a wheel weight or two on it to balance out the weight of the handles.  Never had one melt off and drop the mold on the concrete but I guess it could happen.  Sometimes I use a pair of plyers if I'm out of WW.
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2003, 09:30:23 AM »
When I put my 4- & 6-cav molds on the top of my Lee pot I have to put a wheel weight or two on it to balance out the weight of the handles.  Never had one melt off and drop the mold on the concrete but I guess it could happen.  Sometimes I use a pair of plyers if I'm out of WW.
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Offline Billy Marr

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2003, 12:18:38 PM »
I am with nLloyd I dip the corner of mine in the pot for about a 10 count. The only thing different I do is allso dip the sprue plate to warm it.  With my magma I just put a catch tray under it  and let it run for ten minutes .
lead bullets done right

Offline hubbard

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Pre-Heating 4 cavity moulds
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2003, 02:34:17 PM »
i've tried a lot of these preheating methods mentioned here. lately i sit my lyman 4 cavity on my pot while the lead melts and then heat the sprue plate area with a propane torch. sometimes the first bullets i cast come out frosted and completely filled out.