Holding an otter snare I make in front of me, it is opened at 5 3/4" wide by 4 3/4" tall...all I use are loaded snares. First started snaring otter about 19 years ago and have some unusual experiences with them. I must be lucky because I have not lost an otter in a snare yet.(tripped snares though) I use 5/64 and 3/32 7x7... heavily loaded. The loading makes the snare set off easier which takes less force to get it to close. When the snare closes to a certain apex, it snaps closed. I get about a 70% neck catch on them with the others slipping one or both feet through. Even caught one by the tail. I set snare so the bottom of the loop sits 2" off the surface of the snow. If it is land, I then set it 3" high. When the otter is sliding, he is more apt to have his head lower with each stride, so I compensate accordingly. I keep my snares short with an inline swivel just 2" from the opened loop and another terminal end swivel... double swivelled. I also set up so there is no entanglement. Over 1/2 the otter are still alive when I get there. I use rebar to anchor and clear area void of anything the otter can get leverage with and anything that will foul the swivelling of the snare. I set multiple snares in one area to catch the group when they come in. Often they travel in the same direction, but not the same trail so I gang set the area... a netting effect. If one snare misses, maybe the next few up the trail will connect. I do not have problems with fur damage on my otter. Using entanglement where target does not expire and using cable too thin may result in such an outcome. I do use a kill pole and 5/64 7x7 for them, but when doing so, I am strictly targeting the neck and I make the loop a little smaller as well so that I will either get a neck catch or miss. I do not want a live otter in this scenario too long or he might twist out. I have on occasion have otter twist/break every single strand but 3 or 4. Swivels, non-entangle or entanglement & neck catch are keys in otter snaring.
Snareguy-
