Ordered up a new 09 Yamaha Bravo last weekend

[Dand]

After breaking then replacing the rear hub assembly of our 88 Elan with parts salvaged from an even older one I got to thinking. Our fleet is: 88 Elan, 89 short Bravo and 91 Arctic Cat Panther Mountain Cat. They're all OLD!! The Elan is a beater machine that just keeps going but its tough to steer since the track is so far forward and almost no suspension. And this "winter" we've been driving on mostly slush, glare ice and/or tundra humps. Brutal. I heard the Yamaha dealer in Big Lake (AK) still had some new 09 Bravos. With gas at $5.60 or whatever ( I quit looking and plug my ears when I hand over the credit card) I figured the little 250 engine and long track would be fine for a few more years with the boys (9 & 12) - and wife. Great little trapping machine too. The folks were very nice and beat the prices asked in Fairbanks and Anchorage AND delivered it to Everts Air Freight in Anch for no extra charge! So today they say its at the air freight hangar. May come in tomorrow. The boys have no clue I've bought it. Could be an exciting day when it comes. Now if it would just quit raining........

[S.E.Ak]

Nice little snow go,light

[Dand]

Yep a lot lighter and easier to handle if you get in a hole or something. And so narrow it will go through trees the others can't.  Picked it up at the airfreight this afternoon. What a kick, it came with a cover, primer, bumper, luggage rack, auxillary fuel tank - all stuff I had to buy extra on my Arctic Cat! This thing comes ready to work except for hand warmer grips. Got those mostly installed this evening but having trouble finding the right power source. Can't get the thumb warmer indicator to show. I put 2 miles on it around the yard on early break-in. Just wish I could have found the break-in instructions sooner. The boys are pretty excited. The old snogos the boys drive have no speedometers. This one has marks all the way to 100! So I'm sure my  youngest will have to see how fast it really will go.

If any readers have a lot of experience with these I'm open to suggestions on maintenance, things to watch out for, tips for better performance. Friends say they can get up to 25 mi per gallon loaded light. Hope so - with 5.5 gal fuel capacity it would be a good day of traveling.

Have to locate some modest prices gauntlets, maybe replace the flapper hitch with a pintle hook. Mount a gun boot. Get a spare belt, xtra oil, spark plugs and a few other tools, and some line.

Then its time for some snow, cooler weather and a ptarmigan / rabbit hunt!  Want to do a good break-in first tho.

[Rex in OTZ]

One my co-workers was just saying he wanted to get a Bravo.
He operates a 05 skidoo tundra and has a 550 expidition both have ther share of problems try changeing a foul'd sparkplug on a Expidition at -30F toss in some 15mph coastal wind in off the sea ice, you want to be any place than there.
As I rember my first sno-go was a old leafspring 340 Yamaha ET long track, I had extended the winshield and added 12" ski skinz and primer added a old brush guard off a ski-doo tundra that rig was a go'er I sold it off as it was so hard rideing, thers nothing more misrable to travel on than a hard rideing, slow moving rig, with a 20mph head wind on a hardpacked arctic coastal trail miles away from your destination, I think where you live it should be just the ticket for manuvering through the thickets and deep snow.
the lightness is nice and with those new sleds (sigland) it should do just fine.
I have fond memories of that ET which looked like a 340 Bravo, I dont miss it though, today I ride a 94 Arctic Cat 340 Puma, my 40+yro kidneys like the smoother ride!
 

[Dand]

Rex I know what you mean on hard rides and I don't think this Bravo is big on comfort other than a new thick seat. But we usually don't make real long trips. Maybe up to 50 miles max most times. I can't believe some of these new machines with the huge amount of rear suspension.  But they cost a fortune and weigh a ton.  Plus some of them you can't even change the spark plug without taking other stuff off like turbos or exhaust systems - crazy! I still like the KISS principle at 55. My knees are what complain most. yeah that coastal ice and wind is no doubt a killer.

 ya got me drooling thinking about a Sigland!  I have 2 friends who have them. they are the best.  I thought I'd save $ and build a wood sled a few years ago. By the time I was done I think I paid as much as a Sigland costs and it weighs a ton more. I've hauled some big loads of wood in it no problem. Its plywood and 2x12, 2x4 and at least a quart maybe 2 of Gorilla Glue and lots of screws. About 7 feet long. Strange thing, I bought the last 3 sheets of 3/8 plywood in town that year. Seemed like the rest of the winter whenever I'd go to either hardware store I'd hear folks asking about plywood - almost made me feel bad.

If your friend is needing a Bravo he might want to call the Alaska House of Yamaha in Big Lake. They are eager to sell off the 09's they have. 888-892-1008.

They say the skins they're sending me are 8.5. That should be good for us. Can't imagine 12 inchers but we do get conditions where they could be used - not this year tho.

[Sourdough]

I have a 96 tUNDRA II long track.  Great gas milage, hard for kids to steer due to long track.  Has suspension, but no enough for my 250 lbs.  The only problem I have had is keeping the track in place.  Tundras will not side hill, or handle the big tussocks, with out stressing the track against the back boggies.  Too often they ride over the boggie and get locked.  It's a real pain to take both rear boggie wheels off and reset the track, then put everything back togeather and adjust the track.  Especially out in the wind or blowing snow.  In all the years of owning and putting lots of miles on the Tundra, that is the only problem I have ever had.  Have found if I keep the track tighter than they say, it does not throw the track near as much. 

I don't think the Bravo has that problem, and should get about the same milage.  Good luck Rog

Am sure the Bravo is a good little machine, but as for me, if it don't say Ski-Doo, it ain't going in my garage.  I'll never again own an Artic Cat or Polaris.

[Dand]

Rog, interesting on the Tundra. Not that I know much about them but I'd never heard that complaint about them. But I had been wishing to find a Tundra and gave up. Maybe a good thing.  This year we are driving on more tundra than snow out here. Its starting to cool off and maybe I can get back to hauling firewood this weekend- I hope. We'll give the new Bravo a little work out. We don't get the serious tussoks much close to Dillingham, just the bigger humps and holes. A lot of the holes are filled with ice these days - well maybe slush right now. Don't know as I haven't been out for over 3 weeks with work and warm weather. Gettin itchy.  Wish we'd get a big load of snow to force the ptarmigan out of the mountain tops so my boys could have more to hunt.

[Rex in OTZ]

The co-worker that runs the sko-doo stuff had a few tricks he uses, first off he had a heavy pressure problem, some of this can be adjusted by the front limiter strap, he ended up relocating the front swing arm holes up to lessen the ski pressure from what he noticed from looking at the side for a time the whole rig dident appear balanced, too much ski pressure and + the track was spinning allot even in lite snow, he also installed a modern tundra snogo sprocket in the chain case on the 550 expidition this torx it up some for pulling we used to do this when SKS conversion on a sport model Polaris up-sizeing the lower sprocket ups the torque this helps to also send in the primary clutch and have a differnt spring and cam arms installed this can change the clutch engagement rpm's.

Last spring I was part of a group moving a 2700LB fuel tank over 30 miles of tundra trail, riverbed, hills during our endevor we did encounter cold temps, we murderd our FOX gas shocks in one outing on 4 snowmobiles, morning start up we rolled out to start the day it was -43F the pull start rope wouldent even come out, took a little propane torching the exhaust header to get the engine to free up enough to start, synthetic chain case lube is a must (we like TURCO),

When useing Sigland sled's go with the runner kit this helpswhen crossing roads and on trails gravel sections seems the rocks actually slow you down,  beef up the sigland hitch on the sled with extra U-bolts you can pull a couple drums of gas in one if you make a plywood barrel cradel with a foot board then use rope to lash the drums to the cradel (not the sled) siglands will just roll up in a ball otherwise.
Also seen dog mushers here add a plywood box that sit's right in the sigland so they can haul bags of dog food.

[Dand]

REx thanks for the tips. Hadn't thought of how it would be to pull a Sigland across pavement. And I have to cross it to get firewood. Also the tips on gaining torque. For now we'll just tow a small sled with light loads for hunting and spare gear. I'm always amazed at what guys that really know can do with their equipment. Impressive towing a huge fuel tank so far.

Went to get wood yesterday and as we headed out the driveway my boy stopped me. He could see my rear track suspension was broken on my old 91 Arctic Cat. Spent the rest of the day getting it bolted back in place. Frustrated that it broke but so thankful I was home & not walking 10 miles home in the dark. My hyfax was shot too. This driving on dry ice and tundra is really hard on stuff. I thought I was taking it easy Friday but looks like I over did it.

[Rex in OTZ]

I used to assume stuff would hold together for me to, then after walking home more than once, I figured it was cheap insurance to go through the rig in late september, pulling the undercarrage, if zerks dident take grease fix it so they did, looking for cracks and scrubbing off rust and OSPHO treat the rust and rattle can it black, I find that the OEM hyfaxes dont hold up as well as the graphite impregnated ones that Dennis Kirk sells the silvery black one's, I siphon the gas tank dry, into a gas can, swab the tank dry with a rag on a stick and Mr Funnel the gas back in the tank pretreated with some Sta-Bul added, drain the carb bowl, lube the cables, wipe down the primary clutch and tri-flow the parts that can be lubed, wear rods, stich up cracked cowling with tuna leader and soak it with linseed oil to set it, drive train i replace the bearings wither they need it or not (Arctic Cat) chain case I drain out and refill with fresh Turco.
I even use a suction gun and suck out all the injection oil till its dry then change the inline filter I funnel the mix oil back in through a funnel useing a coffie filter to strain the chunks.make shure the oil injection pump hits the marks, I see frame cracks and loose stuff while doing this, I even pull the engine and wipe it all clear under there, in short if you been in there it's not intimidateing to do the work, besides I'd rather take a couple days going through the snowmobile in the warm fall than when its -20F with 15mph winds out the north to finally replace the recoil starter rope, even work on the breaks.
I recomend useing a good grease that doesent set up like cement when cold, I like Mobil#28 synthetic grease, Shell #22 is another, Ive used  Texas Refineing Co #TRC880 , I like castrol snomobile, Polaris is my next choice (lack of choice in town)

The fuel tank was hitched to a big sled we rented from Joe McCoy of Selawik AK, he had used the sled and his Alpine to move the big diesel AVEC generators from the airport to the light plant on the otherside of town, we hitched a Polaris wide track to the hitch, we used a couple heavy ropes and attached two Polaris 550 sport trails and we averaged 15mph the whole way.

[Rex in OTZ]

When everything works 2700# can fly!

[Dand]

Great Pics!  thanks for posting. Truly impressive.  Clearly you use your equipment harder but treat it much better than I.  I am sold on that Sta-bil stuff. Ever since I started using it I have had far fewer problems with snogos OR outboards. I put a good squirt in all the fuel tanks and top them off for the summer - instead of draining them. I even pour a good quantity in my gas drums before filling. Also I fog the engines with whatever brand of fogger I can get, Yamaha, Polaris, Gold Eagle or Napa - run the engines and hose the carburetors until the smoke pours and the fog chokes off the engine. I used to spray the outsides with CorrosionX but that's expensive and I can't find it very often any more. I usually block up the machines so the pressure is off the springs. I used to take the seats off and store in the garage so the squirrels wouldn't sneak in and chew up the seats. But now that I have a dog and a pellet rifle I haven't felt the need - probably I'll wish I was more careful one day. I have been using Polaris grease lately as that's the only full stock dealer in town.  Used to use Arctic Cat when they had a dealer here. I just need to do it more often. I was wondering about chain lube. I think one of our stores is selling the Turco. Thanks for the tip on hyfax. I just got some basic black from a repair shop here. I melted the original slides on a sunny ice day long ago. Got some green replacement stuff from Arctic Cat that lasted a LONG time - until that front main bearing went out (didn't even know there was a zerk there) replaced the green slide and now the black ones are shot. I'll keep those graphite ones in mind as we are often driving on dry conditions. I grabbed about 1/2 case of Arctic Cat injection oil when a store had a great clearance price. Otherwise I usually use Castrol as its the most affordable. Can't believe how expensive its gotten. Used to mail cases of Penzoil mix from Costco but can't any more.  I've used a little of that Polaris part synthetic but it is $o $endy!!

Heck we should start a new thread here on maintenance and such on snogos - its integral to so much of winter hunting in Alaska.

Snowing hard right now. Should be studying for my meetings next 2 days or out installing that hyfax. Better get to studying - moose hunting regulations and a bunch of other stuff to sort out with other village reps and such. Sure hope the BOG and Feds agree to do wolf control around Naknek and Egegik now that we know salmon keep the wolf numbers too high. Just heard it on the news tonight.  Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll print out your work list - plenty of work but sure beats walking 50 miles in the cold.

[Rex in OTZ]

Being in Alaska we are always on the move going from one place to the next, I gas out of red plastic gas cans of different era's, they are bad for hoarding moisture, even the 6gal boat cans, ther's always a nickle size spot of water in the bottom of bout every can I pick up, I drain off the gas as much as I can and since the shop has floor heat I sit the empty un-capped gas can right on the floor and let them evaporate if I cannot get them clean useing a piece of #9 trap wire and a bit of rag.
I useally drain my carb drain every time its warm out, this year its been 4 times, it needs it done again
crappy fuel is always bad.

I should mention paying close attention to your Carburator boots they weathercheck and develope cracks then sucking air causeing a lean condition on that particular cylinder and next thing you have toased a jug
Ive had to have a cylinder bored on a polaris 550 fan, I had Hatcher Pass Polaris do the work, $65 for the bore job + cost of new piston and rings and gasket set, MY problem was to drain the 550 carb water traps I had to pull the carb out to get at them, the too short oil injection hose is attached to the carb so I pulled the line off(this messes up the injection line) when reinstalling the hose it was tough to get back on, when the engine warms up that tough to insatall line turns into a limp noodle and falls off, get new injectionline and use extra for incase, then each time you have to pull a carb you just nip off a little the end so new hose is to be forced on the oil injector nipple, if a oil line is hard to install its not tight enough, it should be damn near impossible (I dip the tip injector line in some hot coffie before installing seems added heat softens the line enough to ease installation).
If you have a fan cooled snowmobile and it has more than one carburator remember that the main jets are different get them swapped and have a lean carb on one side.I id them with a spot of red for right and green for left on both the carb slide caps (needles can be different too) and carb body.
Std carb jets pay attention to what you have.

What is it with the new rubber?? seems my new honda ATV tires are already weather checking that i installed last summer, same goes for tracks and carburator boots.

The co-worker with Ski-Doo's orderd up his new expidition, it arrived new with factory installed jets for high elevation, after burning it up twice and sending the engine to the dealer he went through the carbs and discoverd they had lean jets for our area.

Also reminds me of one our area sno-go racers bought a new Ski-Doo 600 race rig on his first trip out on the ice he burned up his rig (water pump impeller wasent installed at the factory)

[Sourdough]

I bought a set of Mud Lites for my Kawasaki 4-wheeler.  Within 6 months the rear tires had cracked around the lugs.  Then on a trip one of the lugs pulled out of the tire.  Ended that trip, could not plug it.  Had to go home and get two wheels.  Luckily I had kept the original wheels and tires.

[Rex in OTZ]

Local tire shop relates how modern Chinese made inertubes dont have any rubber in them and are junk they chaffe through fast, I had put a intertube (Chen Shin) on my ATV trailer tire and it lasted a couple months of steady use, I swapped it out with a Good Year Aviation intertube Mfg in Brazil and that has been on that trailer tire for the last 5 years.