Author Topic: What do you fill your cans with? (Read 1648 times)

edoublenickels · « **on:** February 18, 2010, 08:42:35 AM »

I received my coehorn mortar from Dominick today. Awesome looking piece Dom - thanks! So I am working up a few loads in order to test fire prior to my buddy's birthday this weekend. I was wondering what you all use to fill your empty cans. I have a couple of bags of quikrete (yellow bags, concrete) laying around; would that work? Or is there something else that is better? Do you pre-mix the stuff or mix it in the can? I am an avid reloader and muzzleloader, but this is my first foray into mortars/cannons. With my other hobbies precision is the key to accuracy, so I thought I should make the projectiles as uniform as possible. Or maybe I am just reading too much into this and should just go throw some cans down range

.

Thanks guys!

Rob

Rickk · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2010, 09:36:49 AM »

Fiber reinforced ( "crack resistant" ) concrete will hold up a bit better. I think Quickrete colors the bags red.

edoublenickels · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2010, 09:39:24 AM »

Thanks Rick, appreciate it. Do you pre-mix it or mix it right in the cans? Is there a specific ratio/water you use? I suppose if I pre-mix it the weight would be consistent among cans within the same batch at least.

Thanks again,
Rob

Double D · « **Reply #3 on:** February 18, 2010, 09:43:55 AM »

I used sacrete and mixed it a bit watery so I could get it through the pull tab hole. I left the top on of course. It took a little longer to set up.

edoublenickels · « **Reply #4 on:** February 18, 2010, 09:52:59 AM »

DD:
What was the reason you left the tops on? I tried to search the forums, but I had trouble finding the consensus for what people were doing on these. Thanks!

little seacoast · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:13:41 AM »

Hi, I fill my mortar rounds with fiber reinforced cement, dry, and then add water.
The short Campbell's soup cans work great, better than soda, beer cans and easier to fill. If you use cans with the rings still attached you can tie streamer to the projectile which makes them easy to follow and lots easier to find in the grass. Insert a wire loop or eye screw in ones that don't have a handy pull ring.
Weight will vary a little, but don't sweat it- have fun instead!

armorer77 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:15:22 AM »

I use Sackrete , but I cut the tops out . Pre mix in a bucket and pour , As to durability , I can't say , I would need a permit to drain my swamp , excuse me I mean wetlands . Armorer77

edoublenickels · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:27:48 AM »

Thanks guys. I like the idea of the streamer - I read that in another thread too and I think I will give it a shot.

The campbell's cans are the same diameter? I will have to check them out. Although I think it would take me a lot longer to replenish my ammunition cache that way

.

Double D · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:31:30 AM »

Quote from: edoublenickels on February 18, 2010, 09:52:59 AM

DD:
What was the reason you left the tops on? I tried to search the forums, but I had trouble finding the consensus for what people were doing on these. Thanks!

Well, now you are getting personal, I'm lazy! It a bunch of work to take the tops off pop cans and then they are kind of delicate,

LS mentioned Campbell's soup cans and I just checked, they fit. As soon as I get a few. I'll work up some loads!

While the grocery store expedients work just fine, once you use round balls,you won't look back. Our newest sponsor is offering moulds, and I strongly urge you to get one. You won't be sorry.

edoublenickels · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:32:47 AM »

Oh yeah...I almost forgot...

In archery I have messed around some with lighted nocks for night visibility. Has anyone tried a glow-stick or similar improvisation on one of their rounds for nighttime shooting? I wouldn't be interested in flare or anything flammable/explosive, but I thought it might be cool to have a "tracer" type round. My buddy's party is at night.

Thanks all!

Rob

edoublenickels · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:37:00 AM »

Quote from: Double D on February 18, 2010, 10:31:30 AM

Quote from: edoublenickels on February 18, 2010, 09:52:59 AM
DD:
What was the reason you left the tops on? I tried to search the forums, but I had trouble finding the consensus for what people were doing on these. Thanks!

Well, now you are getting personal, I'm lazy! It a bunch of work to take the tops off pop cans and then they are kind of delicate,

LS mentioned Campbell's soup cans and I just checked, they fit. As soon as I get a few. I'll work up some loads!

While the grocery store expedients work just fine, once you use round balls,you won't look back. Our newest sponsor is offering moulds, and I strongly urge you to get one. You won't be sorry.

Ha, that is funny. And thanks for the advice. I will take all that I can get. My plan is to start small (with a big bang

) and go up from there. I have always been intrigued by this hobby. Knew some reenactors, etc. I can't wait to see the look on my friends' faces.

Double D · « **Reply #11 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:38:32 AM »

Yes I have...I want to try some glow paint Click on this link Glow paint

edoublenickels · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2010, 10:47:56 AM »

Cool, I want some. I could use that for countless applications. Have you found a source for it or would you just order from their website? I love this forum.

Double D · « **Reply #13 on:** February 18, 2010, 11:33:24 AM »

I suppose if you look around you will find other sources...here is another Glow on the Dark paint

Google glow on the dark paint.

armorer77 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 18, 2010, 12:09:52 PM »

Testers model paint had a glow in the dark paint , expensive , but enough to try until your order comes in . Armorer77

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2010, 12:21:21 PM »

I started in 1974 filling the cans with water. Good place to start as it limited the powder charge - more powder and the hydraulic pressure would press the sides out a bit, more and the cans would split. Moving to higer pressures took concrete of one flavor or another. Sand works. Sand and water works.

Much of what I do now is PVC pipe filled with concrete/sack-crete. One has to let it cure for several days, otherwise they tend to slip in the pipes. Putting in heavy wire through from side to side helps.

edoublenickels · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2010, 02:47:12 PM »

Thanks. I am going to try the soup cans; some with streamers, some with glow-in-the-dark paint. Maybe I will eventually to PVC or round balls. Thanks for all of your help.

Rob

Ex 49'er · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2010, 03:33:49 PM »

My tube has a little more windage than most so I use a small 4 oz. olive or sliced mushroom can. Fill with mixed up sackcrete to within 1/2 inch of the top. I put in a small chainlink or loop of wire to hold the streamer and fold the streamer into the space above the crete mix so it won't flop out until the can clears the barrel. Otherwise the streamer is blasted to smithereens from the blowby.

Congrats on getting one of Dom's barrels.

edoublenickels · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2010, 03:55:59 PM »

Thanks 49er. I have a feeling this won't be the last I buy. I am anxious to try it out this weekend. Lots of soup to eat in the meantime

.

Articifer Tom · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2010, 12:27:51 PM »

For a light weight round . I use peralite insulation and concrete mix , poured to near top of can . Then press on precast lead semi - wadcutter type tip.

RocklockI · « **Reply #20 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:21:15 PM »

Mr "Nickels" sorry for taking liberties with your name .....but the way I spell it is best all around !

Welcome , concrete cans are ...OK... I was wondering what is the bore size ?

There are far better projos out there in several sizes .

If I missed it , I'm sorry .

Welcome , Gary

edoublenickels · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2010, 02:34:31 PM »

Thanks guys. I figured there are a lot better projectiles, I was just looking for some cheap fun. I was shooting dom's 2.75" mortar with 200 grains of FFg and concrete filled soup cans. My range was about 100-150 yards, but I had it dialed up pretty high in trajectory. It was a big hit at my buddy's birthday party. This weekend I am going to experiment with beer cans, soup cans, and varying amounts of cement (rather than concrete). I am not looking for maximum range, just enough to have a little fun and shake up my wife's yuppy friends. If you have any more suggestions I will try them as well. A side note - I was able to procure some glow-in-the-dark paint, so i am looking forward to some night "tracer" rounds.

And you can call me whatever you want

. My name is Rob; I couldn't think of anything original for a handle, so I chose the type of car I drive. Original, I know

.

Thanks again all!

BoomLover · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2010, 06:20:26 PM »

Welcome, Rob! Don't need to tell you to have fun with this! Sounds like you already are...we all look for suitable projectiles, and you can find an amazing assortment of "stuff" to shoot, (keeping in mind to always be safe!) The other thing we all end up looking for is material that will make cannons, howitzers, or mortars. When doing so, remember the safety rule always repeated by Double D, and all the rest of us...wall thickness has to be equal to bore diameter. So, a three inch diameter rod could be bored out to one inch, ect. And don't forget the base, same plan there! BoomLover

Victor3 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:15:24 PM »

Dang.... Soup cans do fit. Me and my family eat it all the time too. I tried it for fit before, but I think it was with one that had the crimped on caps at both ends instead of one that only had a rim on the top. Steel cans should hold up much better than aluminum.

I'll still have to remove the top rim. Has anyone tried one of those can openers that cut through the rim around the outside diameter? Do they work okay?

edoublenickels · « **Reply #24 on:** February 24, 2010, 04:17:03 AM »

The one we have works great. And it doesn't leave the sharp edge either. I bought it for my wife, but I use it all the time now too.

Terry C. · « **Reply #25 on:** February 24, 2010, 11:09:24 AM »

We have one of those.

It also has the advantage of being battery powered, so it can be used outdoors or pretty much anywhere.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2010, 05:07:40 PM »

Victor,

We've got one of the electric kind, but I always use a manual one sold by "The Pampered Chef" that my wife picked up at one those house party demos where they sell this stuff, and it works great. It's easy to tell when the can has been cut all the way around, and it has a small pincer on it that you then put on the rim of the can to pop off the lid. This one also dulls the edge of the can where it was cut. I know this sounds kind of weird, but I enjoy using this thing, so when she's cooking or baking and needs some cans opened I'll volunteer my services, and she thinks I'm doing it to help her out, which (BTW) is an easy way to score some points.

Victor3 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:26:49 PM »

Eggsellent

Now I can save big bucks by not wasting pop cans with a nickel deposit, and have superior steel-jacketed ammo to boot!

Hey Joe · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2010, 05:14:38 AM »

The lazy way (with no clean up) is to put high strength quickrete in a can dry and put the can in a bucket of water. When the bubbles stop pull it out and let it dry and season.
For my 6pdr I use 3 1/2" progresso or 26 oz Bushes or large Campbells cans. On top of 6oz cannon grade it holds together and will punch through cars, appliances and an old barn.
Cheap and no mixing concrete.

RocklockI · « **Reply #29 on:** February 26, 2010, 03:45:17 PM »

Hey Joe ! ,That is a great idea ....thinkin WAY outta the box . Soakem and shootem !

that is a great idea with a day of 'fun ' I bet you could make up abunch of them !

No mixing concrete ... thats a good thing .

DID YOU read that Suddy ? .."old barns ?" concrete filled cans should really be included in your barn study (upcoming)

Gary