Author Topic: 9mm crimp or not to crimp  (Read 983 times)

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Offline jager247

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9mm crimp or not to crimp
« on: February 21, 2010, 09:07:03 AM »
hey guys,  when you load your 9mm do you crimp them,  i ask because i can buy a set of lee die with or with out the factory crimp

Offline nodlenor

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2010, 09:11:36 AM »
I haven't been crimping mine but my dies will if I decide to. I haven't had any trouble either so as long as they work I'll probably not crimp.
Self government without self discipline will not work; Paul Harvey

Offline JustaShooter

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2010, 09:22:58 AM »
I don't use the Lee factory crimp die with mine, I just set the seating die to give a slight taper crimp.  If I don't, I sometimes have rounds that don't fully chamber - probably too much bell to the case mouth, but still...

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Offline gray-wolf

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2010, 09:54:02 AM »
The standard seating die should also crimp your rounds with a taper crimp if adjusted correctly. The Lee FCD is not just a crimp die, it's carbide ring at the bottom is there to post size the case walls
to remove any bulges that may occur during bullet seating.
  Some say yes to it and some say no to it(FCD)
If you load lead bullets it can/may/possibly squeezes the lead bullet down to less than the sized diameter
 you originally chose it to be.
The FCD does two things.  Read up on it, do a search on it. some like it some don't.


GW.

Offline Siskiyou

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2010, 11:49:20 AM »
Okay, I have loaded just over two hundred 9 MM rounds using my new Lee 4-die set with carbide, lube free sizing.  Before this I used the standard 3-die set for the 9MM without any problem.

Bullet retention is a concern so I have done some testing and I think the new set does a satisfactory job.   The third die in the set, the “Bullet Seating Die,” will seat the bullet and will crimp the case.  I have mine set so that it just kisses the case about 1/16 on an inch.  I have tested this using an impact bullet puller and with this setting it takes three or more impacts to dump the bullet. This is consistent with factory ammunition.  At this point I believe I am at the same level as I was with my old set.

Lee says the 4th die in the set Crimps and Post Sizes Cases.  The statement is a little confusing.  But I do not find the directions confusing.  I can adjust the die to just kiss the case, or create more of a crimp.  At this point I am using the kiss setting. 

The directions say, “Don’t expect the carbide sizer to touch every case.  It is a fail safe tool for the occasional bad round that could ruin your day.”  The bottomline is if you want you can leave this die in the box you can.  I have the dies mounted on top of my older 6-station Lyman turret press. 

My normal practice is to have the dies pre-adjusted in the press.

1.    Tumble and inspect brass.
2.   De-cap and resize brass.
3.   Clean primer pockets, and prime.
4.    Place primed case in shell holder under the Expander die that has been adjusted and run the case into the die.  5.  While the case is in the die, charge the cases with the proper powder charge. (Scale and Lyman 55 powder measurer.)
5.   Lower the case and inspect the mouth of the case to insure it has the correct level of powder in it.   Hold bullet at the mouth of case as it enters the die on a down stroke of the ram handle.  The bullet is seated to the proper depth and the kiss crimp is put in place.
6.   I then run the round into the crimp and post size die.  Most of the time I felt no contact in over 200 rounds.  I believe there was contact with three or four rounds. 
The question in my mind why was there contact?  I think that I did not get the bullet squarely on top of the case mount and it entered the case on a cant.  At this point in the process I am handling a small bullet in a confined space.  I am a little concerned that I will pinch my fingers, and my old fingers do not retain the bullets as good as they did when I was twenty. 
When I bell the mouth of the case to take the bullet I do it just enough to accept the bullet without scraping.  I learn many years ago that expanding the mouth of the case can be overdone.

I pull the case out of the shell holder and inspect the loaded round for defects and place the round in a tray.  I follow-up by rotating the head of the press putting Expander die above the shell holder and go to the next case.

I almost skipped over the powder measurer but it is a critical part of the process.  A double charge of fast burning powder and destroy my gun, and send me to the hospital.  I have two Lyman 55 powder measures on my bench; one for rifle rounds and the other for pistol.  Before charging cases I fill the 55 with powder, and adjust it until I am zeroing out on my scale.  During the loading process following published recommendations I confirm every 10th charge.  I chose not to charge from the 55; I like charging from the Expander Die, and then looking into the case to confirm the charge when I lower the handle.

Loading can be a little mundane at times so this is a good safety check.

How important is the 4th die, I guess that falls under that Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder category.  I did okay with the three die set.  But I recall seeing some guys loading their 45 ACPs out of a large box of 2000 rounds.  Every once and a while they would have a malfunction with a round failing to chamber.  It was determined that the case was slightly over sized.   The 4th die may have prevented the malfunction.

I keep a set of calipers handy to measure a few rounds.  Getting the 9MM round is right is very important.  It is a small case and if you seat the bullet to deep high pressure can be generated.  The round headspaces on the lip of the case and too much of a crimp can cause head spacing problems.

Note taking is very important to me, for future reference.  I am loading with a number of different powders and I need to go back and check to see what worked and what has not worked.  Despite the wordiness the 9MM case is easy to load.

Paying attention to grey-wolf’s post the next time I am loading lead bullets I am going to take some measurements regarding the resizing of the bullets with the crimp die.  I know that when loading plated bullets it left a crimp ring on the wall of the bullet.  This was part of my early tension testing by loading dummy rounds and then using the Impact bullet puller to test retention.
There is a learning process to effectively using a gps.  Do not throw your compass and map away!

Boycott: San Francisco, L.A., Oakland, and City of Sacramento, CA.

Offline KansasPaul

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2010, 02:41:36 PM »
Not all of my pistol die sets have the 4th factory crimp die.  I do have the FCD in my .38/.357 die set and I have found that it does make a difference, especially when loading heavy bullets. I don't normally use a lot of crimp but the FCD does post size the case to ensure that every loaded bullet is consistent in diameter and bullets are loaded concentric.  I have noticed that cartridges loaded with heavier bullets that have been run through the FCD fit easier into the cylinder of my Ruger Blackhawk.  I think that it may be worth loading some bullets using the 3 dies and try some using the 4 dies and see if you notice any difference. 

Offline carbineman

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2010, 02:44:05 PM »
I do not crimp my 9mm loadings. I use AA#2 propellant a WSP and mixed cases all commercial. I seat a Hornady 115 grain bullet.

Offline gray-wolf

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2010, 03:44:46 PM »
Yes they load better--cause they have been -Um- should we say adjusted---- 
So has the bullet if it is lead.
  I find the people that don't like the FCD don't want the bullets adjusted.
But them that have feeding problems and fail to look at why, see it as a quick fix.
  Back in the Pre FCD days I pobly loaded 1,000's and 1,000's of 38/357 and 45 acp rounds.
As did everyone else.  We checked every round in a cylinder or in the barrel (removed from pistol)
  If reliability is critical, it  should still be done with  your bet your life rounds.
 Yes some cases go through the FCD slick as butter on door knob.
But then again some case walls are thicker that others.
  In a revolver a bullet should fit the cylinder throat, lets say a 45 Colt. If the bore is .452 and the
cylinder throat is .454--what size bullet should you use for best performance?.
I think .453.5 to .454 Would be a reasonably good answer--what say you?
  I have seen six shooters with two different cylinder throat sizes in the same cylinder.
The FCD gets you back to a case size that is supposed to be industry standard. 
  Ever notice how many thousands of an inch difference there are in the standards + or - in firearms.
Many people do not find the one size fits all way, to be the best way.
 I have a 45 acp that will lead with .451 bullets and do just fine with .452, I do not want them resized in a FCD.
 If there is a slight bulge in the case and there is in almost every one and it is just a natural thing with that bullet as long as I get no FTF and the bullet drops freely into the barrel.  I do not use the FCD.
  There are some after market barrels --Wolf barrels for the Glocks come to mind that I have been told have tight chamber dimensions--not bad, just a little tight.  In a case like that a FCD might be essential to proper feeding.
  If it helps you use it, if it helps your rounds to feed but you have other problems( accuracy or leading) find out why.

GW.
 
 

Offline Steve P

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2010, 06:14:07 AM »
Your third seat die will apply a taper crimp.  The optional 4th die is a collet die.  The benefit with the 4th die is you can set your third die to seat you bullet and just barely start to do the taper crimp.  You can then use the 4th die to complete your crimp.  Very important to crimp AFTER bullet is fully seated.  No shaving of lead trying to seat bullet and crimp at the same time.  Plus 4th die usually helps align bullet if off any.  

I don't have very many Lee die sets.  I have quite a few Lee Factory Crimp dies.  Saves readjusting seat dies over and over.

Just my $.02.

Steve :)
"Life is a play before an audience of One.  When your play is over, will your audience stand and applaude, or stay seated and cry?"  SP 2002

Offline Siskiyou

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2010, 09:03:53 AM »
After firing a couple hundred rounds yesterday loaded with the Lee 4-die set I am a believer.   If I did not already have two die sets for the 357 I would invest in a set.
There is a learning process to effectively using a gps.  Do not throw your compass and map away!

Boycott: San Francisco, L.A., Oakland, and City of Sacramento, CA.

Offline KansasPaul

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2010, 04:27:49 AM »
I may wrong, but I think that Lee offers the Factory Crimp Die separate from the 4 die sets.  Take a look at the Lee web site - I'm nearly certain that the FCD can be ordered for any caliber as an individual die.

 

Offline Siskiyou

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2010, 06:09:51 AM »
KansasPaul:  You are correct and I am considering ordering one for the 357/38. 

I am thinking of using my 9mm in the outdoors because of the high loss ratio of brass at the indoor range.  Any brass in front of the firing line is off limits, which is okay, just hate to loss it. 

Because of the small table in front of the shooting booth dumping revolver brass is easy and can be recovered and I do not worry about the .22.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/cart.cgi?1267290040.603=90861
There is a learning process to effectively using a gps.  Do not throw your compass and map away!

Boycott: San Francisco, L.A., Oakland, and City of Sacramento, CA.

Offline KansasPaul

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2010, 01:37:20 PM »
Siskiyou:   Have you looked into a brass cartcher?  My brother-in-law bought one that is on a frame and he is able to set it upat his local range to catch auto brass.  Just a thought?

Offline Siskiyou

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2010, 01:47:09 PM »
I have thought about a brass catcher, but have not explored one. 
There is a learning process to effectively using a gps.  Do not throw your compass and map away!

Boycott: San Francisco, L.A., Oakland, and City of Sacramento, CA.

Offline Steve P

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2010, 10:09:59 AM »
My brother made one that attached to his right glove with velcro.  Works good as long as you unload it after normal clip load of ammo.  Similar to those little fishing nets only the net is longer and brass hits opening and falls just below grip level.

Steve :)
"Life is a play before an audience of One.  When your play is over, will your audience stand and applaude, or stay seated and cry?"  SP 2002

Offline gray-wolf

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Re: 9mm crimp or not to crimp
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2010, 10:44:07 AM »
To my understanding the Lee FCD for pistol is not a collet die. it is a post sizing die with a role crimp in the top for revolvers and a taper crimp in the top for autos. The FCD for botle neck cases
uses a collet to crimp the neck and does not post size.
 They can be had in the 4 die sets or bought separetly.

GW.