Author Topic: Help with Contender Hammer spring? (Read 4380 times)

wallacem · « **on:** February 21, 2010, 09:40:41 AM »

I want to change out the hammer spring on my contender, and have one, but do not know where to start. Does anyone? Thanks, Wallacem in Georgia

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2010, 12:51:30 AM »

Is this an original Contender or G-2? Big difference in spring.

wallacem · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2010, 01:26:34 AM »

It is a regular contender.

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2010, 02:14:22 AM »

OK, here we go. There is a schematic posted in the stickys and I would first study it well. Next you need a good wide open work area where you can lay out parts in an "orderly" fashion. As you dissasemble, study the parts and how they interelate before and as you take them apart, and lay them out in the same direction that they were assembled(this is especially important if you're an ol' fart like me and can't remember which way that little thing-a-ma-jiggie was turned). You will need a good set of punches that are sized the same as the pins in the side of your frame and a small mallet.
1-Remove the grip. 2-Remove the trigger group by taping out the pivot pin which is directly above the trigger(if yours is not an "easy open" model, the pin will be a little forward of the trigger). There is no need to further dissasemble the trigger group. 3-Study the orietation of what's left at this point. Now remove what I call the intemediate pin. It's located between the trigger group pin and the hammer pin. This removes the sear. Be especially careful of the orientation of this part. 4-At this point, I would remove the little butterfly that releases the hammer block safety(just for a good cleaning...this is not necessary for your purpose of changing hammer spring). 5-Now remove the hammer spring pin and hammer assembly, checking the orientation of the hammer spring as you remove it. Note that the hammer spring is held in place, inside the hammer by the hammer pin.
Now before reassembly, you need to fabricate a slave pin to aid in reassembly of the hammer group. I cut a piece of nail the size(or just slighty smaller) of the hammer pin and the same length as the width of the hammer. Now you can put your new spring in the hammer and pin in place with the slave pin. As you reassemble, you drive out the slave pin with your punch and then drive out the punch with your hammer pin. Complete reassemble in reverse order and you should be home.
On my first try at this little adventure, I didn't know about the slave pin trick and swore I'd nver try it again. It's not immposible to achieve without it(cause I proved it could be done), but it's close. Good Luck
Walt

skb2706 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2010, 03:39:51 AM »

The only thing I could add to those instructions would be. In the dozen or so times I have done a hammer spring I have never removed the trigger group. Its not necessary to do this.

wallacem · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:01:04 AM »

Thanks guys, you convinced me right away that this is not something I will try. In further checking I even find that my problem might not be the spring anyway. It may be bad headspacing. I am thinking I need to package up the gun and send it to TC. Is this the correct thing to do? Wallacem

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2010, 07:03:15 AM »

I probably made it sound a lot worse than it is. skb2706 is correct in that I included some steps that are not necessary. To me they are quite easy and allow for a thorough inspection and cleaning, and help give you a better idea of how the whole works, besides giving you more room to work on the original task.
But, yes, if you don't want to do it yourself, the best thing to do is send it to TC. Their price can't be beat.
Walt

skb2706 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2010, 08:19:18 AM »

Quote from: wallacem on February 22, 2010, 04:01:04 AM

Thanks guys, you convinced me right away that this is not something I will try. In further checking I even find that my problem might not be the spring anyway. It may be bad headspacing. I am thinking I need to package up the gun and send it to TC. Is this the correct thing to do? Wallacem

Can't know if its the correct thing to do if we don't know the problem.

So problem ?
chambering ?
new ammo or handloads?

wallacem · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2010, 08:27:41 AM »

The problem is,,,, I bought a used original contender frame, bought a 375 Winchester carbine bbl, and put it together, fits great,,,. Loaded up some ammo, went out to the range, and SNAP<SNAP<SNAP. It will fire some of the time, maybe one out of ten tries. Sometimes I can snap one a couple of times, and then the third time it will fire. In checking it, the hammer is falling all the way, not being blocked. since I have a new to me frame and bbl, I don't know which is the culprit. I have not taken another bbl or frame out to swap around. Would you agree headspace?

Dezynco · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2010, 12:59:12 PM »

Could be primers, Contenders don't have a really heavy hammer swing.

blhof · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2010, 02:16:25 AM »

Does your hammer have an add-on extension? This had been discussed before and I had the problem myself, as stated the hammer spring on a Contender is just enough to pop a primer, add weight to the back of the hammer and it's not quite enough for all rounds, Mine worked fine with 223, but wouldn't work at all with 3030.

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2010, 03:10:21 AM »

Headspace problem would be fairly rare with the 375...not saying can't happen...but, I'd be surprised. The cut for the rim would have to be cut too deep. Take the barrel off the frame and chamber a round and check. Flush with barrel or protruding ever so slightly....OK. Even recessed a thousandth or two should fire reliably. Also check barrel gap between standing breech and end of barrel. 5-6 thousands is OK here. Easy check is to shut the action on a piece of paper. If it slides out easily try two. If the rim cut IS too deep, send it to TC and I'll bet lunch you'll get a new barrel.

Walt
Also It could be that you need a new firing pin. Doesn't happen often, but....Try another barrel.

P.A. Myers · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:07:47 AM »

Hammer springs of this type won't 'let down' or sag. They break. Any spring more than about ten years old should be replaced. If you don't know how old it is, replace it. It is about a $4 item. Any gunsmith should do it while-U-wait. It takes less time than a haircut. For $55 T/C will do the E-Z mod and you get all new guts. Good Luck

amboswell · « **Reply #13 on:** November 12, 2010, 12:50:49 PM »

Point in Case about Contender 'hit or miss' firing.

My Contender had a broken trigger guard fork on one side (by the spring that returns it to position after cocking). causing it to not return to 'full battery' position. So the trigger guard did not return to its firing position correctly.

Upon firing - the trigger guard would absorb the trigger energy - causing a misfire.
If I manually held the trigger guard 'in place' (pushing upwards with palm of fore-end hand) - the gun fired fine.
If I left it hanging on its own - gun would misfire.

Lots of variables to consider. Personally, I think the trigger spring would rarely be an issue. Unless the trigger assembly had been taken apart many times.

Richard P · « **Reply #14 on:** November 24, 2010, 05:26:48 PM »

Hammer springs are not difficult to replace in the Contender------if----you have a slave pin. Drive out the hammer pin and get the hammer out of the frame. Place your new spring in the hammer and place the slave pin in the hammer to hold the spring. Place this assembly into the frame. Align the hole and drive the hammer pin through the frame-----driving out the slave. You may wish to take the edge off the hammer pin so it doesnt catch. Always have an extra spring and a slave. rp

cbsjr · « **Reply #15 on:** March 17, 2011, 02:37:49 PM »

Hey guys, I'm also changing out a hammer spring in one of my Contenders. No trouble getting the hammer out and old spring off, got slave pin to hold the hammer in place, but I'm having trouble getting the hammer back in. Spring is installed correctly too. Can't seem to get the flange that sticks out of the back of the hammer under the frame. When I do, the spring isn't in the correct position to line up the hammer with the pin. Is there something I'm missing here? Thanks, Cliff

P.A. Myers · « **Reply #16 on:** March 17, 2011, 04:11:53 PM »

The slave pin holds the spring in place. The slave pin should be the full width of the hammer [3/8]. You do have to hold your mouth just right to insert the hammer. I use a piece of 3/16 brass rod steeply tapered to align and drive out the slave. Then I use the pin to drive out the rod. That makes alignment easy.

P.A.

Dezynco · « **Reply #17 on:** March 18, 2011, 01:42:01 AM »

WAIT!

Before you go to all the trouble of installing a new hammer spring, be sure that the locking bolts on the barrel are fully engaging the interlock. Those things can cause misfires, and can be a common problem. Give them a good cleaning and lubing. If the problem is not fixed, you might need to take them out of the barrel and polish them on a hard stone.

Granted Contenders have a pretty weak hammer blow, but if the barrel is not locked up tightly, it will cock and the hammer will fall, but the gun won't go bang.

See the sticky at the top about using a G2 barrel on a Contender. This also applies to some of the older barrels.

cbsjr · « **Reply #18 on:** March 18, 2011, 06:05:17 PM »

Greetings- Finally got the hammer spring installed. Had it in the hammer in the wrong position. What a dummy! Now it looks like the hammer is not hitting the firing pin when I squeeze the trigger. What did I do to this poor gun now? Thank you for the advice and help to install the hammer spring! I really appreciate it.

cbsjr · « **Reply #19 on:** March 18, 2011, 06:15:04 PM »

Answered my own question. Won't strike the firing pin unless the barrel is on the gun. Again, thanks for the help with the spring!!

lynneil · « **Reply #20 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:53:11 AM »

Before I found out about the slave pin, I swear it took me an hour and three hands. Very simple job using the slave pin method, although I still hold the frame in a padded vise.

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 23, 2011, 11:14:05 AM »

Quote from: lynneil on March 23, 2011, 04:53:11 AM

Before I found out about the slave pin, I swear it took me an hour and three hands. Very simple job using the slave pin method, although I still hold the frame in a padded vise.

Yep....alot of us, including yours truely(I had to clean up my entire shop to find that d*%# spring) learned that lesson the hard way. Daddy always said if I learned a "hard" lesson that I wouldn't forget it.

Walt

Dr. Redfish · « **Reply #22 on:** June 06, 2011, 06:14:13 PM »

My old contender (frame # in the 35,000's) is misfiring about 1 in 5 shots. Doesn't seen to dent the primer enough to ignite. Had the same problem with Win. Rem. and Hornady factory loads. If I pull back the hammer manually and release it it fires every time. It also jams shut after 5 or so rounds. I have it setup with with a 30-30 rifle barrel (purchased new in 2009). I also have other barrels for it (as a handgun) but I haven't fired them in years... Tough to find .222 and 45-70 rounds locally. I'm wondering if the 2 problems may be related, but I purchased a new hammer spring just in case that helps. I was looking for the schematic diagram of the contender's parts, from the 'stickies' but can't find it. Any ideas how I might be able to troubleshoot this aggravating problem??