Universal M1 Carbine question

[Blackhawker]

I realize that this is a military surplus link but I figure that if there are M1 carbine fans out there, they'll be looking here. 

My question:
I have a Universal civilian model M1 Carbine that I used to shoot regularly and it worked very well for me but a few years ago the operating slide broke at the weakest area; around the opening that operates the bolt.  I bought a new part (which these parts seem to now be somewhat scarce) and put it on my carbine, took it to the range and after firing no more than 20 or 25 rounds of factory ammo, the new operating slide also broke.  That was an expensive lesson.  I have since purchased a new operating slide but have not fired the rifle for fear of the same thing happening. 

As far as I can recall, being that it's been a couple of years since the first incident occurred, I seem to recall that the rifle was not operating correctly shortly before the slide broke.  I recall rounds jamming in battery and needing forceful removal.

I realize this isn't a whole lot to go on but does anyone have any idea of what might be wrong here or has anyone seen this kind of thing on one of these civilian models?
Basically, I bought the rifle at a very low price and as I stated, it worked very well for many years.  At this point, if I cannot get an idea of what is going on here I'm considering just parting it out or selling it at a low price with the added note that the rifle needs work. 
Any suggestions or commentary are much appreciated.
Thanks!

[securitysix]

I can't say that I've ever had that problem with my Universal M1 Carbine.  I also don't think I've ever heard of such a problem.

Mine had a serious feeding issue when I got it.  I tried polishing the feed ramps, tried different ammo, tried different magazines, nothing helped.  I finally changed the recoil springs in the gun and the magazine springs and it worked great.  The very next trip to the range, it became a straight pull bolt-action.  Carbon buildup around the gas piston had welded the gas piston to the gas block.  I finally got that out and have some polishing to do, but I'm fairly sure I can get it to run again....I hope.

[torpedoman]

check you loads especially bullet weight and i would put in new springs before trying it again (springs are cheap parts)

[saddlebum]

torpedoman+1; Not sure about what kind of jam you were getting but that combined with breakage made me think recoil springs. It may be getting battered hard with week springs but don't understand the jam in battery.

[Blackhawker]

Hey, thanks for the input guys!
For the many years that I used the rifle, I put reloads though it almost exclusively up to the point of the first broken operating slide.  After I replaced the slide, I only used factory ammo in the case that my reloads were a little too stout for the gun.  Maybe the damage had been done??...who knows??  But what damage is the question. 
To be honest, even if I replace the recoil springs, I'm a little wary of firing it again as the new slide cost me $75.00 and I don't even know if I can get another one again.  I only paid $150.00 for the rifle, I'd hate to spend twice what I paid for it in parts.  Maybe I'll just part it out or sell it.  If I can get my $150.00 back out of it I'd be happy.   

[S.S.]

I had exactly the same problem with my Universal.
Dissassemble the rifle and remove the slide, Polish the slot that the
bolt lug contacts during operation. Just polish it, remove as little metal
as possible. reassemble and coat polished area with moly paste regularly.
The decision to leave that part of the slide skeletonized was a major factor
in the demise of universal firearms. It was a major flaw in the design.
The first time mine cracked, I thought I was outta luck finding another
so I blocked the gas system and made it a straight pull bolt action.
Then I bought one of the new slides like you did and so far all is well.
New springs are also a very good Idea! The only thing that really saved
this gun with me was it's accuracy, I would have parted it out otherwise.

[Hank08]

Blackhawker, just a few mos. ago a friend came by with a Universal with the slide broken at the handle.  We found and ordered a new part, crossing our fingers that it was the right one,
it was and works fine or did last time I heard.  I had a universal a few yrs. ago and it worked some time but not all the time.  I saw one about a yr. ago at a gun show for $75 and passed it up, the universal was the worst of all the carbines.  I have a GI Saganaw Div. of General Motors now that has never malfunctioned.
H08

[torpedoman]

universal is a civilian copy of the carbine and some parts interchange with the military guns and some don't. They went to two springs to improve the action.

[coyotejoe]

The earliest Universals used nearly all GI parts and were excellent carbines with far better barrels than most wartime GI guns. As the supply of cheap GI parts ran out they had to fabricate their own. First was the cast aluminum trigger housing, that worked OK but required a modified stock. Those were still good guns and would out shoot most GI carbines. However, the move to the stamped recoil slide was a bone head idea. They were still accurate and reliable guns but the slide would fatigue and crack sooner or later. I got one welded but it soon cracked again and as fortune would have it, it was then stolen from my truck. I have always wondered what the thief did with it.

[Blackhawker]

I had exactly the same problem with my Universal.
Dissassemble the rifle and remove the slide, Polish the slot that the
bolt lug contacts during operation. Just polish it, remove as little metal
as possible. reassemble and coat polished area with moly paste regularly.
The decision to leave that part of the slide skeletonized was a major factor
in the demise of universal firearms. It was a major flaw in the design.
The first time mine cracked, I thought I was outta luck finding another
so I blocked the gas system and made it a straight pull bolt action.
Then I bought one of the new slides like you did and so far all is well.
New springs are also a very good Idea! The only thing that really saved
this gun with me was it's accuracy, I would have parted it out otherwise.

Yes, I have to agree, the one I have is quite accurate by comparison to some of the military models I've seen.  Maybe your idea of a pull-back bolt action is a possibility.    Then again, I already have a T/C with a 21" 30 Carbine barrel and it's VERY accurate.   Thanks for the info!

Thanks to all for the info, you're all giving me new ideas/insight on this.

[saddlebum]

Does anybody know if you can replace or modify the stamped metal slide with the forged military type? May be a dumb question but I have not had an opportunity to compare them side by side. I understand there are big differences in the two. Surely some one has looked into that as a permanent fix. I can only find info. on the cracked slides and no mention of a possible fix by replacing it with the military type. I would  consider some re-fabrication,(cut and weld), if it would work. A modification to the mil. slide to make it work, maybe? The only reason I care is like the above poster, mine is accurate and worth,fixing/improving if possible.

[coyotejoe]

I'd shorten the the gas piston so it does not reach the slide and get the slide welded. If used as a straight pull bolt action the welded slide will probably hold up OK. Your local welding shop will probably not touch any firearm work for liability reasons but a gunsmith can do it if you explain what you have in mind.

[securitysix]

I'd shorten the the gas piston so it does not reach the slide and get the slide welded. If used as a straight pull bolt action the welded slide will probably hold up OK. Your local welding shop will probably not touch any firearm work for liability reasons but a gunsmith can do it if you explain what you have in mind.

No need to do all that if it has Universal's gas system instead of the GI one.

When Universal started using their own gas system, they used a two piece gas piston.  The front piece is pinned in place.  Drive out the pin then knock the piston out.  You'll see a notch in the front half.  With this notch turned upward, it allows gas to act against the second half of the gas piston and run the gun as a semi-auto.  If you rotate the front piece so the notch is downward, the gun will work as a straight pull bolt action.  This was actually by design.

More info on Universal Carbines and the gas system in particular.

[coyotejoe]

Thanks, that's good to know!