Author Topic: Slow match questions  (Read 3460 times)

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Offline Calamity Jane

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« on: November 11, 2003, 09:43:47 AM »
I found some 3/32  fuse ($1 a yard - NOT BAD!) and made a second vent liner for fuse (an alternate to the percussion lock) so I guess I need to make a linstock and some slow match.

It looks like full-size slow match is around 1/2" diameter, so for my 1/3 scale, something between 1/8 and 1/4" would be appropriate.

Does smaller slow match burn faster? Would it be as reliable (steady burn without going out)?

There's lots of information on the Internet about making slow match but I wonder if any of you fellers haz a favorite formula & method?

(The Chinese fuse is "dirty" but for "photo ops" it looks much better.)
Calamity Jane
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Offline Double D

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« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2003, 01:11:01 PM »
Excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

FUSE

“The most popular alternative to the use of friction primers is the use of “quills” …Today the use of paper soda straws is recommended for this type of primer. (Plastic soda straws will not work.) The paper straw is folded shut one end, and filled with FFFFG blackpowder and closed at the other end with a light Mixture of Glue and powder. In use the ignition end is inserted in the vent and the excess length is broke off, with a small amount of powder allowed to pile over the vent for instant ignition from the linstock.”

Handle with extreme care and keep separate from any other ammo, in its own container, sealed.


LINSTOCK

“A linstock can be made from a heavy wood dowel, using ½” cotton rope wicking, soaked in a saturated of lead acetate and dried.  To extinguish a linstock when firing is done, cut off and safely discard the last two inches of the wicking, at the burning end.”


Unwaxed paper straws can be found at craft stores or you can order them from:

J.L. Hammett Co.
One Paliotti Pkwy.
Lyons, Ny. 14489-9799
Or you can order by phone using their toll free
number: 1-800-333-4600. You are looking for item
number 39470 (Starcraft straws 1800 count.)

They come in boxes of 1800 for $21.00 plus s&h. That price is a year or two old so it may have changed.

Offline Calamity Jane

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« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2003, 12:23:15 PM »
I DON'T BELIEVE IT!

Potassium Nitrate haz DISAPPEARED!

Stopped at a drug store with a large pharmacy to see if I could find a little potassium nitrate - they don't carry "chemicals" no more - guess there's too much money to be had in patent medicines  :x

Stopped by the BIG fertilizer dealer on the way home 'n' asked them (they know me there). Not only did they not have any, they said that the one and only manufacturer of nitrates fer 300 miles around has given notice that they will no longer produce nitrates. It seems that the bombing in Oklahoma City and the terrorist activity of recent years the chemical companies so bad that they don't want anythang ta do with nitrates! Can you imagine?? A major chemical manufacturer is dropping nitrates!!??

I found an online source of lab supplies and they only want $100 per Kilo fer potassium nitrate  :x  :x  :x  :x

Guess I'll haffta get on the phone tomorrie 'n' see if I kin track down a chemical supplier who's got some 'n' who ain't practicing highway robbery!

(Jist might be lightin fuse with wooden matches next year!)
Calamity Jane
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Offline Cat Whisperer

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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2003, 11:54:59 AM »
The trust level of the powers that be of us common folks is just not there anymore.

Reminds me of what a brother of a friend did - made up an official looking letterhead and requested a sample of the chemical he wanted.  The company sent him not a pound or two but a 55 gallon drum full!!!

Hmmmmm.............
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
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Offline Double D

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« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2003, 12:19:58 PM »
CJ,

Try Farm/veterinary supply stores for postassium nitrate.  Also query potassium nitrate on www.google.com for suppliers.

Offline Calamity Jane

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« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2003, 01:19:26 AM »
Found some potassium nitrate - a friend at werk brought me in a ol' bottle of "stump remover" that said "contains potassium nitrate".

I made about a cup full of super-saturated solution 'n' soaked a piece of 1/4" cotton rope. Tried it today - a bit TOO vigerous!  :shock: Suptters 'n' spits 'n' burns about 2" a minute.... so I'z washed the rope 'n' we'll try it again with a weaker solution.

Knew a lot o' boys (when I waz a wee lass) who played with "explosives". Even though physics waz my passion, I never got into the boom-stuff. Never realized what I'd been missin  :roll:
Calamity Jane
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Offline Double D

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« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2003, 01:52:38 AM »
now you know why they say use lead acetate and make a linstock.

Offline Calamity Jane

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« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2003, 09:36:33 AM »
I'd soaked that rope in some warm water fer about 10 minutes, squeezed it ta get most o' the water out, 'n' let 'er dry.

After about 4 hours (in a DRY house), she burns jist perfect! No sputter, no sparks, jist a nice glow at about 1" in 5 minutes! YEEEEHHHAWWW! I got 4 feet of slow match!

Where do ya get lead acetate?

Already made a linstock - one in 1/3 scale ta ride on the cannon 'n' one 3-footer fer lightin 'er off.  :wink:
Calamity Jane
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Offline Double D

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lead acetate
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2003, 01:12:42 PM »

Offline mwarnick1

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« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2004, 09:50:07 AM »
Does lead acetate dissolve in water (Is a water solution used to saturate the cotton rope with lead acetate)?

Thanks,

Matt

Offline mwarnick1

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« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2004, 07:03:52 AM »
I did some research on Lead Acetate and it looks like pretty nasty stuff.  It could be a great way to introduce lead into the body.  I think I'll have to find something else to use.

Matt

Offline jimwaits

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Linstock
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2004, 02:17:15 PM »
Hello Jane,
   My Black Powder education is from reading C.S. Forresters "Hornblower" series many times. They are full of Linstock and slowmatch and quickmatch.
   Could you give me a 25cent definition and/or use for these?
Jim Waits

Offline Calamity Jane

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« Reply #12 on: March 05, 2004, 09:32:50 AM »
A linstock is the stick fer holding yer slowmatch.

Slowmatch is a piece of rope or cord chemically treated to burn VERY slowly with an intense glow.

Linstock & slowmatch is the ol' fashioned way of touchin off yer cannon without gettin yerself roasted or runned over (by gettin too close).

Donno much about quickmatch but I'd assume that's some kind of fuse.
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Offline Double D

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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2004, 02:06:30 PM »
If you got to this link National Safety Rules and Procedures
for Shooting Muzzleloading Artillery[url]

Scroll down to Section X B  for information on making a Linstock

Quote
X Fire the Gun
A.The person designated to ignite the charge calls out "Ready to fire" in a loud voice to alert other crews on the line that a gun is about to fire and to notify the gun captain that the piece is primed. At this call, any open ammunition chests are immediately closed. The gun captain makes a quick visual inspection of the range forward of the muzzle to make sure no one is in danger and then commands "Fire". The time between "Ready to Fire" and "Fire" should be at least five seconds. The primer is then ignited.

B. Priming powder, fuse and priming quills are ignited with a linstock which is long enough to allow the cannoneer to stand outside the wheels. The linstock holds the burning slow match made of cotton rope impregnated with potassium nitrate or lead acetate to make it burn.

C. If a lanyard is used to ignite friction primers, or to activate a lock using percussion caps or blank cartridge, it should be long enough to allow the cannoneer to stand outside the wheels and out of the way of recoil.
[/url]

Offline jimwaits

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Slow Match Questions
« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2004, 04:08:49 PM »
Well, I have used Potassium Nitrate to make a slow burning fuse. I just dissolved all I could in a small amount of water and soaked cotton sash cord in it. When dried it burns fine.
   I figured the lead acetate might be better so I up and ordered a 100 gram bottle of it. What I was hoping to find was some instructions or something that would say put XX amount of lead acetate in XX amount of Hot/cold/water and pour over  xxx rope which is used for XXX and is available at Lowes or Home Depot and dry it out.
   Guess I am gonna just have to rough it.
Jim Waits

Offline Evil Dog

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« Reply #15 on: April 24, 2004, 07:30:16 PM »
Was over at Harbor Freight today and found 3/8" diameter cotton rope, a 100' coil for $10.00.  It is a 3 strand twist and burns quite slowly without doing a thing to it.  To top it off, it even appears to be American made !!!  I couldn't find "Made in China" anywhere on the packaging.... that is very unusual for anything at Harbor Freight.

Am building a new linstock for my golf ball bored Coehorn mortar.  This time I am lining the hole that the burning rope goes through with a piece of cut off 44 Spl cartridge brass.  That is just for those special times when I forget to put more rope through the hole before it burns down.
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Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Freedom is a well-armed lamb contesting that vote. - Benjamin Franklin (1759)

Offline jimwaits

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« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2004, 05:04:43 AM »
I sure would like to see a couple of photos of just how you made that linstock. Anyway you could post them or email them to me?
jimwaits@emcst.com
Jim Waits

Offline Evil Dog

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« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2004, 10:20:15 AM »
Hi Jim..... It's still a work in progress, will post some pictures when it is finished.  Had to change from 44 Spl to 45 Long Colt.... may end up having to go to plain ol' brass tubing.
Evil Dog

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Freedom is a well-armed lamb contesting that vote. - Benjamin Franklin (1759)