Help me get started casting

[JustaShooter]

I've been wanting to get started casting my own bullets, and as the supply of cast bullets that were given to me is dwindling, it seems like this is the year.  As I've never done it before and don't really have anyone I know who can help me get started, I figure the fine folks here can likely help. I've read a good bit back into this forum, and have at least a basic idea what is involved, but I know there are going to be details the will trip me up if I don't watch it. 

So, where do I start? 
What book would be best for me to read up on how it is done? 
What equipment do I need - preferably, broken down into "gotta have it to start" and "you'll want to have it soon after" as well as "it might be nice someday" categories.
What supplies do I need in addition to lead?
What am I not asking that I should have? Don't assume I have a clue, 'cause I really don't, yet.

Thanks,

Just a Shooter

[stimpylu32]

shooter

Here is a good spot to start .

http://www.lasc.us/IndexBrennan.htm

Basicly , you need lead , a way to melt it , something to flux it with , and a mold .

stimpy

[Tommyt]

shooter

Here is a good spot to start .

http://www.lasc.us/IndexBrennan.htm

Basicly , you need lead , a way to melt it , something to flux it with , and a mold .

stimpy

Stimp
I didn't ask but I took a look, thats a Heck of a lot of good info,Great Page, I just spent an hour or so reading, now If I can retain any of it .............
Thank gosh for Favorites, I marked that one
thank you
Tommyt

[JustaShooter]

Thanks stimpy, that looks like a lot of good info!

Just a Shooter

[bilmac]

Lyman manuals used to be the place to go for bullet casting, I don't know if they are still printing cast bullet manuals but you could maybe find a used one.

 I would start with Lee molds. They are cheap, some don't like them, but they work good for me. If you decide you don't like the sport you're not out much, but most likely you'll get hooked, and right away you'll have lots of new ideas, but then you will have an idea of what you want and where to go. Just as well get double cavity molds, only a few pennys more and making bullets one at a time gets to be a little tedious.

[jlchucker]

Lyman manuals used to be the place to go for bullet casting, I don't know if they are still printing cast bullet manuals but you could maybe find a used one.

 I would start with Lee molds. They are cheap, some don't like them, but they work good for me. If you decide you don't like the sport you're not out much, but most likely you'll get hooked, and right away you'll have lots of new ideas, but then you will have an idea of what you want and where to go. Just as well get double cavity molds, only a few pennys more and making bullets one at a time gets to be a little tedious.

Lyman has a new edition coming out supposedly this summer.  The Lee book is pretty good, but I'd suggest some reading in the 49th edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook as well.  You can get some great info in great depth from the Cast Boolits website.  Those guys are seriously into it, and very helpful.  You'll find that they shoot cast bullets out of everything and for every game ever hunted. 

[Richard P]

   There are two chapters to this book.  One deals with the actual casting. The other is how to get my rifle or handgun to shoot these projectiles.  You'll need suitable lead based alloy. Common wheelweight fits nicely but needs a small amount of tin at times.  Alloys are composed of lead, antimony, and tin.  Alloys with more than 2% tin are not needed and waste precious tin.  W-W doesnt have a lot of antimony but a lot of times a lot isnt needed. 
   You can melt w-w in an iron pot over a coleman stove.  You can also invest in an electric pot.  Lees are less expensive but have a reputation for dripping.  You'll need a mould suitable for the firearm.  There are selections for rifles, autoloader pistols and revolvers.  You'll need a way to size and lube the new bullets or go with the Lee ''tumble-lube' designs.  Do some study. 
   You need to adhere to safety.   NEVER allow moisture into a pot of molten alloy. Steam occupies 7000 times the volume of water. It WILL evacuate a pot. Add new alloy when the pot is cold.  Alloy is HOT.  It's at least 500 and up to 700 deg F.  Heavy gloves are good as are shoes and socks. A little bit of alloy in a shoe WILL create a serious burn.  Long sleeves help protect against splatters.   Eye protection should be used.
    Casting isnt difficult to learn.  As with musical instruments, when you have the basics you can devote a lifetime to mastery.   

[JustaShooter]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it.  +1 on the safety, I've been reloading for a long time and understand how important it is, doubly so with molten metal.

Dug through a box 'o stuff I got from a friend who got out of reloading and found a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook I thought I remembered seeing, so I'll go through it once I've finished the web book stimpy mentioned.  A friend of mine runs an auto shop and has supplied me with a bunch of w-w (and told me I need to come back soon to get the next batch!)  From what I've read, I ought to melt them down & clean out the trash and make ingots in preparation for actually casting the lead, so I'll work on that here soonish (weather & time permitting).  I should be able to scare up a Coleman stove & cast iron pot - I'd sure like an electric melting pot, but dang they are expensive!  I need to save money, not spend it like a drunken sailor for crying out loud!

Also, I've got a couple of double cavity molds, one for my .38 and one for my 9mm.  I'll need one for my .45 as well, so that's on the list.  I've seen mention of something to coat the mold with, like a release agent or some such?

Thanks again, and keep it coming!

Just a Shooter

[Richard P]

    Additionally, go to the site for the Cast Bullet Association.  Castbulletassoc.com   There you will learn more in a few days than you could re-invent in 30 years on your own.  Go get those w w's as soon as possible and collect as many as possible. Separate out those that are the ''stick on'' or any zinc weights.  If you know someone who welds, angle iron makes a good ingot mould.  Cut a couple of short pieces to block the ends and leave yourself a tab for the vice-grip to grab.  Several pieces 3 or 4'' long will do.  You can set them on a wet towel for a heat sink. 
    Another safety note :  If you melt range scrap-----check for live 22lr.  Richard

[jlchucker]

RichardP makes some very good points, especially about safety.  I had a very small spatter once, and was fortunate enough to have had plastic safety glasses on over my regular glasses--it didn't hit me in the face, but it did hit my shirt, and I right then and there realized that just safety glasses over regular eyeglasses aren't enough.  I invested in one of those full-face plastic shields that you mount on your head and pull down over your face.  They are about 10-15 bucks, but give full face protection and excellent visibility (when clean).  Most hardware stores carry them--you may want to think about getting one for yourself.  Any little bit of water vapor will cause a spatter like you wouldn't believe--and RichardP is dead on with his comment about moisture. 

[huntducks]

Everything everyone has said.

I'm a retired Plumber and grew up leading joints lead does burn when I smelt I always wear at least 1 welding glove I just can't seem to when casting from a bottom drop pot gloves are just to bulky.

I have been using these for years as a ingot I bolt them on all thread rod with wood blocks on the end the rounds come out just the right size for a pot.

[teamnelson]

I'm newish to casting, been casting only for .38/357 until recently. Last night I was loading some .44 with the Lee 430-240tl swc bullet and when I seated and crimped a couple had shaved a very thin fingernail of lead along one side. I'm used to rings, but this was different. Do I cut them off?

Thanks, Chaps

[lee1954]

If you can get the RCBS cast bullet hard back used --- it is out of  print -- but more up to date then the Lyman (old) -- and cost less...

I will say that the books aren't about to tell you the cheepest way to get into casting...they are more likely to say it takes several hundred dallors to  start,,and buy there stuff.....

Follow the safety stuff...   

The cheepest way to start is ----Find some one that casts and get them to help you get started -- with there stuff the first time --- Dan

[Lloyd Smale]

one of the best ways to get started is to buy a lyman expery casting kit. It has about everything including a book that you will need to get going. About the only other things you will need are a mold, a sizing die for the caliber your casting and a top punch.

[WayneS]

Where are you located ?? there might be someone here, on CAST BOOLITS or the CBA forum near you and woold let you come for a visit and see how it all comes together

[JustaShooter]

I'm in NE Ohio, near Akron.  I'll have to check out one of those other forums (am I allowed to say that here?  ) when work and RL get back to normal and I can get the time...

Just a Shooter

[budman46]

justashooter,

casting is one of those things that's hard to justify for a newbie...if you have an in to old, clip-on style wheel weights, a supply of (cast bullet) lead from a shooting range or linotype from an old printing operation, go for it...if you're forced to buy alloy at $2/lb or more, too bad.

i've casted for over 30 years, so lots of my stuff is lyman and rcbs, but if i were to get started today, it would be all lee without hesitation. their pro 4-20, bottom-drop pot is $60 or so...rcbs's version is nearly $300...good guarantee, but i doubt i'll wear out 5 lee's. lee's moulds cost about 1/3 of what steel blocks cost, not counting the extra mould handles. with this product: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=51649 lee's aluminum moulds will last forever and it will make life with steel moulds easier as well.

my appreciation for lee products doesn't stop at their furnaces or moulds either...their faster and less expensive (cheap) liquid alox and sizer dies forced me to retire my (costly) rcbs lubriziser setup.

if you're committed to doing this...and i hope do, there are two primo sites for information and lots of guys that're willing to help you explore the "dark side"...lurk here on gbo and http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ for lots of info and guys that will gladly mentor you.

budman