Crimping revolver bullets

[scratcherky]

I have reloaded rifle bullets for years and now want to reload revolver handgun rounds for 38 Special and 357 Mag. I have been doing some reading in the reloading manuals and on the internet trying to decide on what dies to get and components to use. While I basically understand the crimping procedure, I have a question regarding loading the 148 grain hollow base wadcutter bullet that is seated flush with the case mouth. In this particular case I would like to know how and what type of crimp to make.
Also would appreciate die recommendations.
Thanks

[buffermop]

I reload for the 357 using the same bullet useing the Lee crimping die with a slight roll crimp. Works fine for me.

[Dand]

I just use the roll crimp feature that came already in my dies - I have Lyman in 38/357. All the main die makers build a roll crimp into most of their handgun dies.  I also have the Lee Factory Crimp die. Works very well but I mainly use it for jacketed loads. Learned recently that the case sizing feature of the Lee Factory Crimp die may size down some lead bullets excessively in some guns so I've stuck with the built-in crimper for when making such loads.

HTH

[Reed1911]

When it comes to wad cutters, I'd suggest you try first with no crimp at all, just set the die to remove the bell you made for seating, then try a light crimp, then try a heavy crimp. I've found in 90% of my guns that no crimp at all with good light loads works best. I have also found that some revolvers like a good solid crimp better. And my Dan Wesson's just don't really care, they all shoot great so I just remove the bell and call it a day. Try all three with each load you work with and then pick what you want. No if you are loading for an auto you'll likely have to have a nice rounded crimp to facilitate the feeding.

[moosie]

Since you are using hollow base wadcutters, you will be using a very light load.  I agree that minimun crimp is necessary even though it is a revolver you are shooting.  There should not be enough recoil to move the wadcutters at all, besides, even if they moved a full 3/8 inch, you would still have room for the cylinder to turn and with fast burning light loads, I doubt that pressure would be a consideration.

[Steve P]

Roll crimp!  My revolvers get bullet seated in one step and crimp done with Redding profile crimp die.  I am looking for accuracy tho.........

With HBWC bullets, I would seat in one step, then come back and put a slight roll crimp in the case.  Do it in two steps otherwise your bullet seater will be too close to the crimp step in your die.  You want to seat and crimp in two steps anyway.

Get used to crimping ALL revolver bullets and you will not have to worry about bullets walking out and siezing up your cylinder.

Steve

[P.A. Myers]

You need a crimp to aid ignition. crimp just below the top of a HBWC. Tapered crips are for automatics.

[1sourdough]

 I think 1st we have to back up to 'neck tension' before we consider crimp. Some bullet/brass loadings have plenty of tension to hold the bullet before doing any crimping. Of course you may have to take some 'belling' out if it's present & if your loading heavy loads you may crimp to hold under recoil or other reasons.  I think the Lee FCD is about the easiest to adjust to whatever you want.

[Steve P]

You need a crimp to aid ignition. crimp just below the top of a HBWC. Tapered crips are for automatics.

I won't disagree with what you said, however there is information being left out that should be stated.  A little more reading and research on this subject will help you a lot.

I think 1st we have to back up to 'neck tension' before we consider crimp. Some bullet/brass loadings have plenty of tension to hold the bullet before doing any crimping. Of course you may have to take some 'belling' out if it's present & if your loading heavy loads you may crimp to hold under recoil or other reasons.  I think the Lee FCD is about the easiest to adjust to whatever you want.

Were talking revolver loads in straight wall cases here.  Your first two sentences apply to rifle loads, not necessarily to revolver loads.  I agree with taking out the "belling" and agree with use of Lee factory crimp die. 

ALL factory handgun loads have a crimp of some sort applied.  Whether it be a taper crimp, a roll crimp, or a combination of the two, it is there.  Most of us who handload work up loads using a crimp also.  As P.A Myers stated above, a crimp can aid in ignition. (Allows thorough powder burn and/or pressure build up.) A crimp can hold the bullet in place. (An almost absolute for a relover, there are some exceptions tho...) A crimp can headspace your ammo properly. (45ACP, 9mm, etc all require taper crimp to bring case mouth to correct dimension for headspacing in the chamber.)  Failure to crimp ammo that is designed to be crimped can lead to failures of other kinds.

Many causes of leading, fouling, dirt, poor ignition, poor accuracy, misfires, etc can be traced back to improper crimping.  We can write a lot on this subject for about every caliber out there.  In this particular thread, I think we can all agree the proper crimp for a 38 or 357 is a roll crimp into the groove or cannelure designed in the bullets being fired.

Steve