Old RCBS Dies with Ring problem

[Jal5]

I have two sets of old dies with rings where the setscrew stuck inside the ring tightened down on the die. Even after removing the set screw the ring threads were messed up. While removing them screwed up the threads on the rings, the die body was unaffected. It seemed like the setscrew somehow interacted with the metal of the ring and galled or something.
Anyone ever seen this before?

Do you use the RCBS rings that came with the dies or switch them to something else? This is definitely not a brass set screw, not sure what the set screw is made of but they are the same on both sets of dies.

Joe

[Catfish]

A ring from any standard size die will work.

[P.A. Myers]

I prefer the flat sided clamp-type Hornaday. RCBS clampers are good too. Avoid any set-screw type. I also avoid the jammers [LEE]. Easily found, all will fit.

[necchi]

 An old trick, (and I'm a new guy using it) was to replace the brass screw with a standard screw and put a single piece of lead shot in the hole. The lead will compress to give you the lock and the steel set screw won't strip like the brass does.
 That's one of the first things I learned on my own,,if you tighten the lock nut for die position--then tighten that set screw in the nut--it won't "lock" the nut too the die. So the common idea is to tighten that brass set screw some more,,then,,you strip the allen head brass!
 The local hardware store don't stock brass set-screws with an allen head drive! There was a learning curve with that lock nut
 It didn't take long to figure out they just need to be tight to the press,,NOT with lug nut torque!!

[84Jim]

Joe,

I had the same problem with a used set of 30 carbine dies I bought last year.  I think the "ring" is aluminum and there is a bi-metal reaction with the steel die and screw when it sits for a long time.  I hit mine with penetrating oil and was able to break in loose without destroying anything.  I think that the new dies have a steel ring.

Jim

[stimpylu32]

Joe

Most of the RCBS dies I have had , there was a lead shot under the set screw to keep the screw from digging to the threads , that may be what is causing the problem . My last set took 2 sets of channel locks to get the ring loose .

stimpy

[Jal5]

I should have used the penetrating oil. These probably are the aluminum type rings. I screwed up the ring threads but the die threads stayed OK. I think I will replace the rings with the split kind though. RCBS offered to send me new brass set screws, but its the rings that are ruined.

Joe

[Autorim]

There are plenty of replacement rings to choose. As posted the older RCBS set screws had a lead insert between the screw and die body. To loosen, back out the set screw slightly and rap the ring at the set screw with plastic or rawhide hammer.

[rugerman]

Yes there is a lead pellet under the set screw to grip the threads. To release it back the set screw off a couple of turns then wack the top of the set screw with something (I use a wooden screw driver handel) to break the lead pellet loose then you can adjust the die and it will hold tight.

[wncchester]

People tend to get far more agressive with both the set screw AND installing the dies themselves than is necessary.  There is no need nor value in getting either more than snug.

[DDZ]

Joe,

I had the same problem with a used set of 30 carbine dies I bought last year.  I think the "ring" is aluminum and there is a bi-metal reaction with the steel die and screw when it sits for a long time.  I hit mine with penetrating oil and was able to break in loose without destroying anything.  I think that the new dies have a steel ring.

Jim

I believe 84Jim is right on this one. When you have dissimilar metals in contact with each other what is created is called galvanic corrosion. There is a potential between the two metals measured in millivolts. Depending on where the metals fall on the galvanic scale, determines how fast one of the metals corrode. One is the anode, and the other is the cathode. If the ring was aluminum and the set screw was brass. The aluminum (anode) would corrode because it would be protecting the brass screw (cathode).  If you have an aluminum locking ring and set screw, you will have no corrosion problem. 

Its the reason you can run an LED clock with a potato, copper nail, galvanized nail (zinc), and a couple pieces of wire.       

[necchi]

People tend to get far more agressive with both the set screw AND installing the dies themselves than is necessary.  There is no need nor value in getting either more than snug.

Your right! I think that's a fairly common rookie move. I caught myself doing it. Darn near shook the press off the bench when I tried to lossen/exchange my dies the first few times 
 Another thing I figured out pretty quick was it does little good to tighten the set screw AFTER the lock ring is tight,,it just don't work. 

[Dand]

DDZ you make good points. As one who used to spend a lot of time around commercial fishing boats, Steel and aluminum are a bad combination. The steel will eat the aluminum really fast in salt water unless you have a lot of sacrificial zincs (anodes I think). I've seen aluminum hatch covers very badly pitted to the point of near collapse. Now that's with a lot of salt water but with some humidity and a sweaty palm, conditions could be set up on the dies. At least if the rings were aluminum, they would break and not damage the die body. I don't like the split die rings that much as tightening them seems to try to tilt the die in the press. At least that's my concern. Note tightening some split rings will cause the split joint to not line up as it cinches into the threads.  

Like other posters have noted, there is no need to wrench down on the lock rings like a lug nut. Firm is good enough. And I fairly often have reason to reset my lock rings for differing crimps, or other functions.

I have bought Hornady and RCBS replacement lock rings to use on Lee dies and get rid of the   Lee ring with rubber o ring  - don't like those things except maybe on the Factory crimp dies.