Author Topic: Trolling Motors and Canoes (Read 3278 times)

DanChamberlain · « **on:** April 08, 2010, 05:38:33 AM »

And my daughter and I are into fishing. Canoes aren't the best fishing boats, but there are a lot of neat waters to explore in our many state parks here in Communist Illinois. The other day, we hit the lake and the wind blew us to hell and gone and it was a chore getting back after a day of casting and paddling to say off the opposite shore line.

I love the canoe, because many of these lakes have very cool fishing spots that many boats can't enter due to narrow initial passages that open into wide coves.

I'm looking for advice on tolling motors for canoes. Never used one on a canoe and if anyone has any experience with them, I'd appreciate some advice. I already know about load balance and keeping the front down. I'm more interested in a balance of trolling power and battery selection.

The canoe is 14 feet, but wide and roomy. It's an Old Town Explorer.

Thanks

Dan

dukkillr · « **Reply #1 on:** April 08, 2010, 06:02:36 AM »

Is it a square stern?

DanChamberlain · « **Reply #2 on:** April 08, 2010, 06:45:27 AM »

Nope. She's pointy! But there are lots of transoms that bolt on. I'm interested in some knowledge about motor power and battery power for a days worth of puttering around and exploring.

Dan

Bigeasy · « **Reply #3 on:** April 08, 2010, 06:49:49 AM »

Dan-

I was kind of in the same boat a while back, and here was my solution- I bought a 16 foot Old Town two seater kayak. You sit much lower then a canoe. It is comfortable, roomy, and a lot more stable then a canoe. Less effected by wind, and easier to paddle. I had some pretty big bodies of water to cross sometimes, so I rigged it with an electric motor. I attached a 2x4 across the stern with a couple c-clamps, then used it as a bracket to attach an electric trolling motor on the left side. Used a full size marine deep cycle battery, usually in the bow for balance. At full power, that kayak seems like its about to go on plane. The system works well, and might be adaptable to a canoe, provided it didn't make it to "tippy". If you have a square stern, then just clamp it there, and run a full size deep cycle batty in the bow.

Larry

DanChamberlain · « **Reply #4 on:** April 08, 2010, 08:09:57 AM »

With a 30# thrust and a deep cycle battery, do you have any idea how long one might go at half power for a day on the lake? None of the lakes I fish would take more than 15 minutes to cross, and most only about 5 or 10.

Dan

Dee · « **Reply #5 on:** April 08, 2010, 09:02:06 AM »

Dan I have fiberglass canoe and love the thing for the same reasons you do. Bigeasy is onto the right solution, and there was an article in Backwoodsman mag. a few years ago about the same thing. A couple of treated 1X4s a few inches wider than the canoe in the area you want to mound the trolling motor, wood screwed together in an L shape will do the trick. Just screw a couple of 2X4 blocks to the one board inside the canoe for your c-clamps, and mount the motor on the 1X4 that is vertical, and protruding out for the side you want the motor.
A good deep cycle motor should last you most of a day as the canoe is easy to push thru the water.

Savage .250 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 08, 2010, 09:42:37 AM »

If you haven`t done this already, try your question on .....google. Canoe Trolling motors. Lots of stuff available.

jager · « **Reply #7 on:** April 08, 2010, 10:37:30 AM »

Dan - I used to have a 15' Coleman "Ramax" (type of fiberglass/composite) canoe when we lived in VA. I used it for duck hunting, fishing, and exploring the many rivers in that area. The biggest problem with that canoe was in open water in windy conditions and small children that couldn't sit still for more than 2 minutes at a time

.
Coleman used to make a portable motor mount that fit on either end of the "double" pointed ends for a "push" or "pull" mode of operation. The mount was made of aluminum, very light, clamped securely to the "gunnels" (gunwales) and handled fairly good sized electric motors. (The 2x4 mount should be about as good.) I used a MinKota 35 as my power source and set the battery box in a position that would "counter" my cargo or passenger load. Although the "35" didn't have alot of thrust, it was adequate and didn't require a very big battery to operate for a day. It worked well enough, was easy to set up, easy to transport, and provided a day of fun with the "paddles" always in "reserve".
After a couple more family moves, I finally sold my canoe. While I have replaced it was a "Portabote" years back, I still miss the simplicity, utility of the canoe, and the kids that grew up too soon.

DanChamberlain · « **Reply #8 on:** April 08, 2010, 11:39:46 AM »

Thanks for all the responses.

I used "google" long before I posted here. But I trust the answers here.

Dan

Oldshooter · « **Reply #9 on:** April 08, 2010, 11:58:57 AM »

A 30lb thrust will make a canoe scoot! Just get a deep cycle battery and hang on.

A good battery should last all day 4 to 6 hrs using it intermittently and at half power! from my experience.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #10 on:** April 08, 2010, 01:26:43 PM »

i didn't like all the flimsy store bought ones

i built one out of a 4X4 and scrap of 3/4 ply ss all thread

17 foot canoe goes real good with a small electric
my mount will handle a 3hp mercury too

got a 16 foot square tail too

i prefer the double ended/home made mount

seems to cut the water better

Sweetwater · « **Reply #11 on:** April 08, 2010, 06:12:01 PM »

I grew up using an 18' Old Town Guides Model canoe, double ended, wood and canvas. Dad built a motor mount out of crossarm braces (from telephone poles) which clamped between the gunwales. Dad bought the canoe and the 2 1/2 hp Johnson outboard at Old Town Canoe Co, Old Town, Maine, in 1946. It worked.

Empty Quiver · « **Reply #12 on:** April 09, 2010, 03:59:10 AM »

Years ago dad and I put a 60# Minkota on a fibreglass canoe. I'll tell ya that rascal would scoot. We jerry rigged it up to the thwarts and gunnels with a couple 1x4's I seem to remember. It was a lake canoe and I'd say that was a help as far as keeping things straight with the motor on the side.

Get a GOOD quality deep cycle battery match the size to the amount of fishing you want to do and the motor demands as far as amp hrs. The battery will last all day and then some if you are slowly working the shore line, If scooting from spot to spot maybe 3/4 day or less. Wide open it'll take it down in a couple hours max.

A good deep cell charger and using your head and understanding batteries goes a long way with trolling motors.

Hopalong7 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 21, 2010, 01:32:49 AM »

A 30# thrust motor and a standard 65-70 amp-hour deep cycle battery will run you for the better part of two days unless you're just running it constantly on high.
Walt

rdmallory · « **Reply #14 on:** April 21, 2010, 03:22:27 AM »

Check you state regs. Most states require the canoe (boat) to be registered with a boat number if it is under power. This goes for battery or air power. A friend of mine was stopped one time after rigging a homemade sail to a canoe.

Doug

BBF · « **Reply #15 on:** April 21, 2010, 10:02:59 AM »

Quote from: rdmallory on April 21, 2010, 03:22:27 AM

.............................. A friend of mine was stopped one time after rigging a homemade sail to a canoe.

Doug

Only a politician would consider a sail propelled boat a power boat.

I presume registering a boat in your State involves handing over some $ to them.

DanChamberlain · « **Reply #16 on:** April 22, 2010, 01:16:28 AM »

The canoe is properly registered, and thank you for your thoughts.

Appreciate all the tips and advice. I've procured the equipment, now all I have to do is a test run.

Dan

lakota · « **Reply #17 on:** January 22, 2011, 02:10:32 PM »

Do you guys with home made mounts have any pictures of them?

Gun Runner · « **Reply #18 on:** January 22, 2011, 09:53:54 PM »

Another thought to runnin an elect. motor is how far forward you want the batt. In my 12 ft alum V hull I put my batt all the way forwrd along with my reg gas can for my out board. Elect. motors seem to have a short cord, so what I did was go to K mart( came apart) and bought a set of their cheapest jumper cables (10 ga). Cut the clamps off one end and clipped the clamps off the elect, motor and spliced (twisted) them to gather and taped them good. This helps keep the bow down also. My alum boat weights 230 lbs, me at 225 lbs, 5 gals of gas plus extra 2 gal of gas, motor around 88 lbs plus fishing gear and small ice chest. Using a min kota 28 lb thrust motor on #2 speed I can fish all day, also small fish finder hooked to the batt.

Gun Runner

montveil · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2011, 02:47:51 PM »

Make sure you have both the motor and battery securely fastened in case of a capsize. Extra flotation???
When I paddle my canoe solo I turn it around so I sit/lean against the front seat as it places my weight further forward.

greg916 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 10, 2011, 03:35:22 AM »

i use a 34 lb thrust and a fish finder on a 14 foot rental with a 550 cca marine battery. it will last all day, and then some.