Author Topic: ball stuck in my .45 cal flintlock. (Read 949 times)

rednekhuntr · « **on:** November 18, 2003, 03:03:25 PM »

I'm fairly new to muzzleloading. I was at the range today experimenting with different patch thicknesses with my kentucky rifle. I used a patch that was too thick, and got the ball stuck about half way down the barrel. I cracked my ramrod, and hadn't brought my spare, so I brought the rifle home. With a wooden dowel, and a rubber mallet I finally got the ball to seat all the way. Can I safely shoot the rifle to clear the bore? I'd imagine the round ball is pretty flat from the pounding it took to seat the load, and it's loaded over 70 grains of 3f. Stupid question, but I'd rather ask first, and maybe have to use a ball puller than damage the rifle?

crow_feather · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2003, 03:22:56 PM »

The ball can only get as big as the bore of the rifle. You are safe to shoot it. Try to find a 50 caliber machine gun cleaning rod. Tap the screw at the end to 10/32 and it is the greatest range rod you will ever find.

propredator · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2003, 03:29:39 PM »

if the patch fit that tight how the heck did you ever get it started?Maybe you needed a little more lube on the patch or had fouling build up.
I would run a light lube down the bore then shoot it out,but what the heck do i know i aint never had a stuck ball,knock on wood :lol:

River runner · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2003, 03:36:20 PM »

Crowfeather, makes good sense on the range rod, but in lieu of the .50 cal cleaning rod check with Dixie Gun Works, they are pretty reasonable, just be sure you get the stainless steel rod. RR

Black Jaque Janaviac · « **Reply #4 on:** November 18, 2003, 05:47:58 PM »

Yes a range rod is always a good investment.

I've never had a ball "stuck" on top of a powder charge that I couldn't just fire out. Wait no, I did once. I actually had a sandwiched charge. In other words, powder, ball, powder, ball - in that order. I pulled the top charge before firing the original charge.

Basically if you can hammer it down, you'll probably be able to safely blow it out. Barring something totally wrong like my situation above.

crow_feather · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2003, 09:27:56 PM »

A couple times, I had to shoot the cleaning jag out of my rifle. That thing hit the garage floor and zinged around a bit. Better to do it in the dirt. Those co2 cartridge ball removers sure do take the fun out of things.

C F

WD45 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2003, 02:18:12 AM »

As stated ... you will be safe to shoot it out as long as you are sure it is fully seated..... I have never had a stuck ball .... BUT that stuck cleaning jag .. I had a couple of them good nightmares :roll:

PA-Joe · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2003, 02:38:49 AM »

In your practice, were you wiping between shots. I like to use one wet and then one dry cleaning patch before reloading. If you use a jag to clean your bore, the jag can also get stuck if too dry. If you soak them in water (by pouring water into the barrel) for a few hours they will loosen up and then you can pull it out. Had a jag and ram rod stuck once and this worked.

Check out www.rmcsports.com for replacement rods.

mamaflinter · « **Reply #8 on:** November 19, 2003, 01:17:57 PM »

If you purchase a stainless rod, make sure you get a muzzle protector or you can damage the crown on the rifle. If you really want a good rod, get one in BRASS! It won't hurt your bore and will last a lifetime.

Quote from: River runner

Crowfeather, makes good sense on the range rod, but in lieu of the .50 cal cleaning rod check with Dixie Gun Works, they are pretty reasonable, just be sure you get the stainless steel rod. RR

rednekhuntr · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2003, 01:29:28 PM »

Thanks for the help guys. I fired the ball out yesterday, then cleaned the rifle. I went back to a smaller patch, and am now getting 2-2 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. I don't really know what kind of accuracy I should expect, but this seems a little discouraging. Any opinions on how to shrink my groups?

rollingb · « **Reply #10 on:** November 20, 2003, 02:08:59 PM »

Redneckhunter,....You've never really tolt us what yore shoot'n, and the proceedure yore use'n now. If we knew more 'bout yore rifle, what size ball, thickness of patch, "lube" type,.... as well as what kind'a powder and it's granulation, and how many grains yore use'n for yore 2 1/2 inch groups,..... maybe we can git ya "shoot'n center"!!

rednekhuntr · « **Reply #11 on:** November 20, 2003, 03:39:51 PM »

I'm shooting a CVA .45 kentucky rifle with a 1 in 66 twist. I'm using 70 grains of 3f, .44 cal Hornady round balls, and .010 pillow ticking lubed with bore butter. I tried vaseline and was getting marginally tighter groups. At first the flash had me flinching, but I've managed to pretty much fix that. I appreciate any help.

rollingb · « **Reply #12 on:** November 20, 2003, 04:41:33 PM »

The earlier CVA Kentucky's (with 2-piece stock) were known to be accurate shooters (for an inexpensive rifle), however I wouldn't reccomend much more of a "powder charge" then the 70 grs. of FFFG thet yore now use'n. In fact have you try'ed a bit "lower" charge (55-60-65 grs.) to see if it will group better??

For some odd reason, sometimes a courser powder will often shoot better in a particular small-bore, so if you have (or can borrow) some FFG, you might try it also.

Are yore "patchs" look'n good after be'n shot,.. are they intact without any holes burnt in'em?? They should look good 'nuff to use agin, and agin!! You will usually find them about 10-15 yards down-range from yore muzzle.

You might also try thicker patchs, or, 445 roundballs,.. maybe "both" if it loads real easy. I have a .58 cal. thet likes "denum patchs", so if you have an old pair'a jeans to cut up, thet is also a possibility.

Vaseline is petroleum based, and I suggest "NOT" use'n it,.... instead use ONLY "natural" grease such as "unsalted" Crisco. My favorite "lube" at the shoot'n-range is jest plain ol' "spit",... and for hunt'n I use a "bear-oil and bee's wax" lube thet I make.

Traditional muzzleloaders are "simple creatures", and when you find the powder-charge and patch/ball combination it likes,.... it should do you proud on the shoot'n range!!

Good luck, and keep us posted on yore "progress"!!

spitpatch · « **Reply #13 on:** December 03, 2003, 02:59:52 PM »

I fully agree with Rollingb on the powder charge, way past the "point of diminishing returns" I think for your caliber. I shoot a TC .54 Mountain Hawken....535 (Hornady)RB's.....pillow ticking patches(spit lubed)....80 Gr.FFg, Elephant brand, and it took a lot of shootin with different combinations of wads, and charges to find my sweet spot. Seems like every guns got one, you just gotta find it. Good luck! PS When you find that sweet spot for your gun......PLEASE POST IT.....I'm curious. Pay close attention to Rollingb's post.....He's got you on the right track.

rich e · « **Reply #14 on:** December 04, 2003, 07:37:49 AM »

Gosh, 2 1/2" groups at 50 yds with a flintlock, and cheap quality one too, and your complaining. Don't get me wrong, I have a few CVA's, and there all accurate shooters, however the 45 cal. flint mountain rifle I have, I found the lock not to be the best sparker that I've ever used. I would be happy with 2 1/2 " group out of THAT rifle!!!