Author Topic: Making Field Cannon Carriage Wheels. (Read 13684 times)

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #60 on:** May 07, 2010, 05:08:43 PM »

Max - I like the jig/fixture. Will have a lot of applications here.

Glue - I love the idea of TESTING it. We did some testing of white glues and other wood glues in college - late '60's. Other than fill or waterproof I don't see the need for anything STONGER than good old white glue - because if white glue joints are STRONGER than the wood, one doesn't need greater strength. More fill and waterproof, yes.

GGaskill · « **Reply #61 on:** May 07, 2010, 09:01:40 PM »

According to the manufacturer, the yellow glues are not really stronger than white glue but they have a higher melting point so that they sand like wood rather than melting and smearing the way white glues do. They are also a little more waterproof but will not withstand soaking.

carronader · « **Reply #62 on:** May 08, 2010, 03:06:05 AM »

I think I'll stick with what I see , specs are good for risk assessments , not much use for glueing Felloes.I just put out what I find in use , on low cost consumeables not so important , but I wish more people would put out info on experiences of machinery against hand tools , substituting cheaper wood for the expensive hard woods. We already have that with the barrel bashers , amazing exchanges on steels , prices , machining , in fact GGaskill your opinion on machining is one I look out for , I don't need specs or write ups , I need reliable glue.
The mad Swede has already unloaded with one of his broadsides on a crap product , which was falsely presented as being of high quality. Who knows ? he's maybe saved some members from buying this crud.
We do need the " book says " but I'd love to see more " tried this.......it's crap........try this instead " with a ' in my opinion ' thrown in to cover your butt.

RocklockI · « **Reply #63 on:** May 12, 2010, 09:31:34 AM »

I edited myself , sorry

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #64 on:** May 12, 2010, 10:22:49 AM »

Quote from: carronader on May 08, 2010, 03:06:05 AM

...
We do need the " book says " but I'd love to see more " tried this.......it's crap........try this instead " with a ' in my opinion ' thrown in to cover your butt.

In my humble, but accurate, opinion, I agree.

little seacoast · « **Reply #65 on:** May 13, 2010, 04:25:00 AM »

Carronader, Titebond, Titebond, Titebond. After 40+ years of woodworking I have never had a lamination or properly made joint fail when using their product. In point of fact, the adjacent wood will fail first. Titebond II and III are superior products and are also available in light and dark wood formulations for those who choose not to stain their project. NOT suitable for filling gaping voids, for those try mixing sawdust from you project with a little Titebond to make a DYI wood dough. This will not accept stain well however.

KABAR2 · « **Reply #66 on:** May 13, 2010, 05:18:22 AM »

So has anyone made any wheels with bronze or steel hubs?
or just wood?

Max Caliber · « **Reply #67 on:** May 13, 2010, 06:42:54 AM »

KABAR2,

Havent built the wheels yet but have made headway on the hubs.

KABAR2 · « **Reply #68 on:** May 13, 2010, 07:43:33 AM »

Max,

Nice hubs complete with bearings, but shouldn't the shafting continue from one to another to
give the spokes something to rest on?

Oh and I like your powdercan lable too.

Max Caliber · « **Reply #69 on:** May 13, 2010, 08:51:09 AM »

KABAR2,

Both pieces have a flange turned on the inside 1/4 inch thick. over these flanges will slip a piece of heavy wall pipe the width of the spokes, then the two halves are bolted together with the spokes in between. On original hubs, the outside has a hub projection that extends the width of the wheel over which the inner part of the hub slips. The spokes are fitted so they do not touch the metal so they don't bottom out before being driven in tightly. Not counting all the work on the hubs, this is an easy wheel to build. The holes in the outside part are filed square and carriage bolts are used in the assembly which gives a neat appearance..

Max Caliber · « **Reply #70 on:** May 16, 2010, 06:09:43 AM »

Here are the roughed out parts

Here is the felloes sawing jig. Leave each segment 1/8 inch longer for final fitting.

Here is the felloes boring jig. Use a forstner bit, they cut cleaner holes.

Here are the finished parts ready to be assembled.

Max Caliber · « **Reply #71 on:** May 18, 2010, 06:54:26 AM »

Here is the hub with all of the spokes tightly driven in up to the spoke tenon shoulders. Factory wheel tenons were turned after the spokes were installed in the hub so the ends of the tenons were all the same distance from the center of the hub. If you turn the tenons in a lathe, leave them a bit short because when they are driven in they will not all be the same length. Put a snug fitting axle upright in a vice then slip on the hub. Take a small, thin strip of wood a little longer than half the wheel diameter and drill a hole for the axle in one end then slip it on the axle. Use the other end of this piece of wood to accurately locate the end of the tenon for each spoke, also use it to locate the end on the spokes. Cut the tenons, say 1/8 inch shorter that the felloes are thick, You don't want the end of a spoke sticking above the fellows, even a small bit.

Install all of the felloes pieces and seat them down until all of the gaps between the ends of the felloes meet. The felloes will now not be setting on the spoke tenon shoulders because the felloes pieces were left a little longer than finished length. This is where the fine adjustment comes in. Using a clamp or strap on the spokes, pull two felloes together then use a fine tooth saw to saw through the joint where the felloes meet. Continue this around the wheel until the felloes sit on the spoke shoulders and all of the felloes joints come together. Go slow, remember even a thin saw will take out a 1/16 inch on so.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #72 on:** May 18, 2010, 08:40:44 AM »

Fine work Max; is that wheel dished?

Basicguy · « **Reply #73 on:** May 18, 2010, 08:56:07 AM »

Wow great workmanship.
I was at Harbor Freight last week and they had 36" wheels that "looked" similar for less than 20 dollars each.
I am sure yours are much better.

KABAR2 · « **Reply #74 on:** May 18, 2010, 09:42:00 AM »

No comparison between his workman ship and the decorator junk harbor freight carries

"36" Decorative Cedar Wood Wagon Wheel
Item # ******

■Rustic cedar wagon wheel resists decay, insect damage
■ages gracefully
■Adds Old West charm to your landscape
■Sanded to a smooth finish and ready for staining
36" diameter x 1-5/8" wide
Weighs 10.85 lbs. "

And cedar is the last wood you would want to use for a cannon wheel....

Max Caliber · « **Reply #75 on:** May 18, 2010, 10:28:20 AM »

Boom J, It is not a dished wheel. Actually, I made it for an old style wheelbarrow. Two minor changes in the construction and it would be a dished wheel.

RocklockI · « **Reply #76 on:** May 18, 2010, 12:46:24 PM »

Nice work Max ! it looks sturdy.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #77 on:** May 18, 2010, 02:46:33 PM »

Quote from: Max Caliber on May 18, 2010, 10:28:20 AM

Boom J, It is not a dished wheel. Actually, I made it for an old style wheelbarrow. Two minor changes in the construction and it would be a dished wheel.

What caliber wheelbarrow?

Pre 1898?

Max Caliber · « **Reply #78 on:** May 19, 2010, 02:12:18 AM »

Tim, It will be a large caliber wheelbarrow like these.

Max Caliber · « **Reply #79 on:** May 19, 2010, 02:22:56 AM »

By the way, wooden spoke wheels are making a come back.

dan610324 · « **Reply #80 on:** May 19, 2010, 03:00:35 AM »

how do you think they are at 80 miles/hour ??

KABAR2 · « **Reply #81 on:** May 19, 2010, 05:05:40 AM »

Is that there what you call one of them cross overs?

Or not quite Amish enough ?

dan610324 · « **Reply #82 on:** May 19, 2010, 05:29:39 AM »

its a swedish or estonian license plate

I think

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #83 on:** May 19, 2010, 05:37:00 AM »

Quote from: Max Caliber on May 19, 2010, 02:12:18 AM

Tim, It will be a large caliber wheelbarrow like these.

Max, your wheels look great. I would recognize those trapezoidal mounds anywhere. Those are Fort McAllister, Georgia large caliber wheelbarrows, are they not?

Tracy

Cannoneer · « **Reply #84 on:** May 19, 2010, 08:54:05 AM »

Quote from: Max Caliber on May 19, 2010, 02:22:56 AM

By the way, wooden spoke wheels are making a come back.

Max,
In the last four months we've had to replace the tires on two rides because of cracking on the side walls; maybe they moved on from hickory spokes mitred and bolted in metal naves, with hard rubber tires attached to the rims, much too soon, to be sure that blow-up tires were a better way to go.

ETA: Emoticon

GGaskill · « **Reply #85 on:** May 19, 2010, 10:32:15 AM »

Unless that HV never gets above idle in first gear, those wheels won't last more than a few weeks.

Must be a Photoshop job.

Zulu · « **Reply #86 on:** May 09, 2011, 11:53:58 AM »

This was a great thread on making wheels.
Carronader,
Did you ever finish your wheels?
Zulu

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #87 on:** May 09, 2011, 01:50:25 PM »

Zulu -

"Wheels, Wheels, Wagons & More," 1984 by Melvin L Dewitt will be headed your way tomorrow.

Zulu · « **Reply #88 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:22:39 PM »

Thanks Cat,
I'll check it out.

Zulu

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #89 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:27:45 PM »

Received the follwing e-mail today...

Hi George,

Quote

Hi George,

How the heck are you? Yes, we can build them wheels, from what you are telling me they are looking for 19” wheels and down to 12” 14” and 16”. Let me make sure that we can get close to being “historically accurate” when we get down that small.

Should you have questions, or if I can be of assistance, please feel free to contact me.

Thank you, we are a family owned and operated business and your business is appreciated.

Jay Jones

Custom Wagons

www.customwagons.com

Yesterdays Products Today

(859) 887-9432

(859) 885-1377 Fax