Author Topic: Is there a need for cannon liner  (Read 8093 times)

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Offline seacoastartillery

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #60 on: November 10, 2011, 02:30:13 PM »
      Victor3,   Occupy Seacoast Artillery?  Really??  Just remember this one important fact:  Those who have the attitudes of the 1% and the guns of the 1%, but not the money, well those are the really dangerous ones. 
     Other than that notable exception, it looks like all of your ideas are good ones. 
What you wrote:

                     1)    1.014" bore so you can make with the tooling you have on hand
                     2)    Groove dia .030" larger than land
                     3)    Square cut rifling
                     4)    1:48 twist

What we think:

                    1)      No problem;  it’s one of those we have been considering.
                    2)      No problem;  the original depth in 1/6 scale is .0167”, .0334” larger than land.
                    3)      Square cut rifling is already planned.
                    4)      1:48 twist falls half way between what we are currently making which is 1:36 and 1:55 making it, once again, no
                              problem.

                    5)      We forgot to ask what length to make these liners or “Cannon Blanks”.  Length??


“ There's a method to my madness here; I believe that the above should be a good compromise for most projectiles you mentioned previously but will also work with a patched 1" lead or steel ball.”

      We can understand a “Standard” for a 1” bore, lead or steel, bolt shooting rifle.  We just have not thought of the round ball option.  Thanks for that important thought.

Jamesfrom180 wrote:   “ I do hate to clutter up such a fine informational thread as this with pointless wit.  But claiming to occupy anyone especially those who have knowledge of siege craft or weaponry is a fools errand.  Much rather have them on my side.  Very nice work M&T!!!!

     Thank you James;  we believe you are entirely correct about this being a fool’s errand, after all why would any customer worry about their stuff being messed with when we have both Marines and 82nd Airborne guys watching the property when we are away on a trip.  And, our house sitter is an artist with a  SPAS – 12.  They don’t worry and neither do we. 

Little Seacoast wrote:   “M&T it just occurred to me that the small tube we were discussing, a Dom Sawyer barrel with 1.060" bore 12.75" long probably could be rifled as is without a liner.  1018 steel  and plenty beefy. Would this be a possibility?  Sure would bring the materials cost down a little.” 

     It does seem logical Pete, but not when you consider the cost of making special holding fixtures to hold the exterior shaped Sawyer tube for the reaming up to the next standard size, 1.067” bore dia. And also another complete two piece collar set to hold the tube rigidly in the rifling machine.  It takes a shop designed differently from ours to handle this gunsmithing activity.  As slow as our production is and as specialized as it is, it’s still a shop designed to make products efficiently, not a jack of all trades shop like our former gunsmithing shop from 30 years ago.  Sorry, but we just can’t allow ourselves to be drawn into that activity.  There is even less money in that than what we are doing now, AND THERE AIN’T MUCH IN THAT EITHER!

Mike and Tracy
Smokin' my pipe on the mountings, sniffin' the mornin'-cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o' my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners be'ind me, an' never a beggar forgets
It's only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - 'Tss! 'Tss!

From the poem  Screw-Guns  by Rudyard Kipling

Offline Double D

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #61 on: November 10, 2011, 03:44:52 PM »
what the logic in 1.014"?  I mean there must be a reason I just don't understand it.

Offline Victor3

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #62 on: November 11, 2011, 12:04:43 AM »
     We can understand a “Standard” for a 1” bore, lead or steel, bolt shooting rifle.  We just have not thought of the round ball option.  Thanks for that important thought.

Mike and Tracy

 The particular bore diameter wouldn't matter to me as I can make a projectile to fit. For others though, the added cost/hassle of fancy slugs might be a deal breaker. Even for those who can have any projectile they want, a round ball option would be an added bonus if one likes to tinker with loads. I had a .58 cal Zouave replica that did better with a patched ball (and had less recoil) than a bullet.
 
 I suspect that there are more than a few wanting better accuracy than their smoothbores can provide. One of your liners + patched 1" steel balls or a 1" dia mould (if they're set up for casting) are simple and inexpensive options. Some already have 1" balls/moulds for their guns so adding a patch to fit a 1.014" bore would be easy-peasy.  :)
 
 IIRC it was Bill Wilson who some time back posted a video of his rifled 40mm (?) cannon shooting patched balls with good accuracy.
 
 As you guys well know, a rifled cannon is a whole nuther dimension over smooth (I'm still amazed at the groups you get with your guns). I'm excited about the possibility of similar accuracy via one of your 1" liners/blanks.
 
 On the length, I'd imagine 18" would be more than enough for a liner in most scaled cannons. Are there any that would scale to longer than that with a 1" bore? For a bbl blank, 24" should do.
 
 For the OD of a liner, you said you could obtain 1" x .375 wall tube. That might be ideal for someone wanting to line an existing golf ball bbl himself, or maybe to have you ship a liner to one of the sponsers to be added to one of their golf ball barrels.
 
 You mentioned a breech plug earlier on in the thread. I wouldn't need one as I'm wanting to make a breech loader.
 
 
 
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes

Offline Double D

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #63 on: November 11, 2011, 01:38:45 AM »
Wasn't  Bill Wilson gun sabotted, not patched? Relying on memory here.

Offline shred

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #64 on: November 11, 2011, 02:38:48 AM »
Personally, I'd like to have a bore diameter that works well with bolts turned from 1" rod stock, but I'm not exactly a volume customer at the moment ;)


Offline seacoastartillery

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #65 on: November 11, 2011, 02:50:33 AM »
     If you fellows will go to Reply #24 in the thread "Building a Rifling Machine from A to Z" you will find this:

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        Re: How to Build a Rifling Machine.......A  to  Z  « Reply #24 on: January 08, 2007, 04:35:25 PM »    Guardsgunner;

"My tube is a section Jap 47m/m anti air/tank gun. I think 16 or 18 L/G, very shallow and twist is about 8 feet. The original gun shot a projo of about 5 lbs at 2,800 fps.

My 20 oz lead ball exits at about 750 fps. It is almost impossible to get a patched ball down a 47 m/m bore so I load it like a smooth bore. Bore length is 28 inches.

I think I would like to do a rebore/rerifle with perhaps 4 L/G at greater depth and slower twist to accomodate a short lead bolt."

Bill


     Bill uses a naked ball, I guess.  With the smaller 1" size, a patch would work and in the 1.014" dia. bore you would NOT have to pound it down the tube with a mallet.  Just a smooth easy push with the rammer would do it, even with thick patch material.  This bore size also allows us to run a premium push reamer down there to take any possible, slight, our-of-round condition out of your tube while making it the same size from one end to the other.  As you all know we are accuracy nuts and will do almost anything to make these liners or rifled cannon blanks accurate.
 
Victor3 wrote:

" On the length, I'd imagine 18" would be more than enough for a liner in most scaled cannons. Are there any that would scale to longer than that with a 1" bore? For a bbl blank, 24" should do.

For the OD of a liner, you said you could obtain 1" x .375 wall tube. That might be ideal for someone wanting to line an existing golf ball bbl himself, or maybe to have you ship a liner to one of the sponsers to be added to one of their golf ball barrels.
 
You mentioned a breech plug earlier on in the thread. I wouldn't need one as I'm wanting to make a breech loader."


      18" would be enough in most scale cannons and ALL field guns would be well served by this length unless you are making something bigger than 1/4 scale.  Almost all of the seacoast guns can be created in 1/6 scale with a 27" round, but we use a 29" round so we can cut off the 2" of rifled tube at the muzzle which is suspect do to the way rifling machines work (lack of support for the rifling head as it emerges from the muzzle).
      1" X .375" wall tube will probably be available although .500" thick wall is more common.  Arrangements are possible with other sponsors.
      No breech plug because you are making a breech loader. Got it.  If it does not have a Whelin breech block, we will be EXTREMELY upset!  So get busy drawing and figuring!  He, he, he.

Tracy and Mike


P.S.   That is very possible, Shred, we can use the first successful rifling head we ever made to do that.  We rifled an as-produced
         piece of mechanical tubing and it still shot 5 shot groups of 3.25" at 100 yards!  We could not believe it!  Must have stared at that          target for 10 minutes!  Shred, no problem.


 
Smokin' my pipe on the mountings, sniffin' the mornin'-cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o' my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners be'ind me, an' never a beggar forgets
It's only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - 'Tss! 'Tss!

From the poem  Screw-Guns  by Rudyard Kipling

Offline Double D

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #66 on: November 11, 2011, 03:41:09 AM »
what the logic in 1.014"?  I mean there must be a reason I just don't understand it.

this got lost....

Offline GGaskill

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #67 on: November 11, 2011, 09:18:29 AM »
I think 18" is a little short.  Most of the larger guns I make are 24"+ in length so a 24" rifled liner would be more to my liking.  Are these expected to be rifled tubing or drilled and rifled blind barrels?
GG
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Offline Double D

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #68 on: November 11, 2011, 10:24:39 AM »
My Cairo gun needs 18 inches of bore.  My Parrot needs 21 1/2 inches of bore.

Offline little seacoast

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #69 on: November 11, 2011, 11:57:31 AM »
Thanks for the explanation M&T, it just seemed so logical that I knew there must be a flaw in there somewhere.  Sort of like when somebody asks me why they can't just take a pill for something rather than do all the unpleasant and messy stuff it takes to get well.  LS 
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Offline seacoastartillery

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #70 on: November 11, 2011, 01:46:44 PM »

what the logic in 1.014"?  I mean there must be a reason I just don't understand it.     

this got lost....   


      Well we kind of tickled this one a little, but not forthrightly as you deserve, DD.   The size has a lot more to do with easy round ball use than some kind of specially designed bore dia. which is especially accurate for bolts.  "With the smaller 1" size, a patch would work and in the 1.014" dia. bore you would NOT have to pound it down the tube with a mallet.  Just a smooth easy push with the rammer would do it, even with thick patch material.  This bore size also allows us to run a premium push reamer down there to take any possible, slight, our-of-round condition out of your tube while making it the same size from one end to the other.  As you all know we are accuracy nuts and will do almost anything to make these liners or rifled cannon blanks accurate."


     
I think 18" is a little short.  Most of the larger guns I make are 24"+ in length so a 24" rifled liner would be more to my liking.  Are these expected to be rifled tubing or drilled and rifled blind barrels?   

      We will try to find the right sizes and a good price on seamless cold drawn tube which has dia., roundness and straightness which meets our tough requirements.  If this cannot be done we will try to find a way to batch build liners or 3-4" rounds the way we do our premo guns only more efficiently to keep costs down.  24" is no problem as we regularly do 29" OAL and we can rifle out to 42" if absolutely necessary, although (this would NOT be cheap!).


     
My Cairo gun needs 18 inches of bore.  My Parrot needs 21 1/2 inches of bore.   

     You certainly have needy cannons, Double D.  Are they teenagers or what??  No problem for those lengths!


Thanks for the explanation M&T, it just seemed so logical that I knew there must be a flaw in there somewhere.  Sort of like when somebody asks me why they can't just take a pill for something rather than do all the unpleasant and messy stuff it takes to get well.  LS 

      Sorry to have to tell you all that, Pete, but it's best to get the bad news right away so you can anticipate other solutions.  WE WILL find a way to get you what you will be happy with, of this we are sure.


Tracy & Mike
 

Smokin' my pipe on the mountings, sniffin' the mornin'-cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o' my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners be'ind me, an' never a beggar forgets
It's only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - 'Tss! 'Tss!

From the poem  Screw-Guns  by Rudyard Kipling

Offline Victor3

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #71 on: November 11, 2011, 09:12:57 PM »
   
   1" X .375" wall tube will probably be available although .500" thick wall is more common.  Arrangements are possible with other sponsors.
      No breech plug because you are making a breech loader. Got it.  If it does not have a Whelin breech block, we will be EXTREMELY upset!  So get busy drawing and figuring!  He, he, he.


 Hmmm.... One advantage of a thicker wall would be that a fairly hefty bbl could be made from a liner with just a Parrott-style boot shrunk over the chamber area. Thataway, no need to make a full-length bbl and sleeve it. More cheaper, and guys with smaller lathes could make their own.  :)
 
 On length, longer is better but I'm thinking $$$. I know the material isn't that spendy but it seems that every time I make a part, the deeper I have to bore into it, the more I sweat. And my sweat don't come cheap.  ;D
 
 I coulda sworn Bill Wilson was patching balls in the video he posted of him shooting his cannon. Musta been a fig newton of my imagination.  ???
 
 I'll get right on that Whelin, soon as I can find my Dremel and some prussion blue.  ;)
For now, I have a nice 1 1/4-12 bolt and tap.
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes

Offline Victor3

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #72 on: November 11, 2011, 09:52:11 PM »
That's right Dr. Watson, from now on you'd better check your warped sense of humor at the door, that is if you know what's good for ya. :o :P :o :P :D

 LOL! I recently received something similar in a PM from someone wielding more authority than you, my good man.  ;)
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes

Offline Cannoneer

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #73 on: November 12, 2011, 10:27:58 PM »
It's about time you got your comeuppance, you've been gettin' away wit moider! :P
RIP John. While on vacation July 4th 2013 in northern Wisconsin, he was ATVing with family and pulled ahead of everyone and took off at break-neck speed without a helmet. He lost control.....hit a tree....and the tree won.  He died instantly.

The one thing that you can almost always rely on research leading to, is more research.

Offline seacoastartillery

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #74 on: November 13, 2011, 06:04:41 AM »
 From Victor3:

Hmmm.... One advantage of a thicker wall would be that a fairly hefty bbl could be made from a liner with just a Parrott-style boot shrunk over the chamber area. Thataway, no need to make a full-length bbl and sleeve it. More cheaper, and guys with smaller lathes could make their own.

      All true and the varieties and styles of artillery which could be made go way beyond the common Parrott.  The addition of a reinforcing band means the addition of a vent liner though to provide an unbroken egress for those hot combustion gasses.  Don’t burn your fingers while shrink fitting the band! 

On length, longer is better but I'm thinking $$$. I know the material isn't that spendy but it seems that every time I make a part, the deeper I have to bore into it, the more I sweat. And my sweat don't come cheap.    

    After calling quite a few suppliers we are beginning to think that maybe deep hole drilling and reaming  less than spendy,  solid rounds of 1018 steel might actually be cheaper than buying Expensive seamless mechanical tube. 
                                                   Supplier A    $ 192  delivered from Chicago, IL                                                  Supplier B    $ 237  delivered from Houston, TX                                                  Supplier C    $ 263  delivered from  SF, California

The specs for all of these bids were these:  One piece, low carbon steel, 1018, 1020, 1026 CDS,  36” long X 3” OD X 1” ID per A519.CDS, Cold Drawn Seamless should not cost this much, but it does in quantities less than half a ton.  The cost of solid 1018 rounds is much less, just slightly more than 1/3 of these costs. 

 
 
I coulda sworn Bill Wilson was patching balls in the video he posted of him shooting his cannon. Musta been a fig newton of my imagination.      I'll get right on that Whelin, soon as I can find my Dremel and some prussion blue.   For now, I have a nice 1 1/4-12 bolt and tap.

     Well we are about even on misspellings now.  Prussion s/b Prussian and Whelin s/b Welin, so you are certainly forgiven, however, we can NEVER forgive you for bringing up Prussian Blue.  I don’t know how much experience you have using it, but Mike and I had much, much more experience than we ended up wanting while working at Sundstrand Aviation in north Denver, CO.  For those unfamiliar with this pigment discovered in 1704 by Herr Diesbach, a dye maker in Berlin. Germany, the name came from it’s use as a dye to color Prussian military uniforms.  It had many uses through the years, but those of a colorant in “blueprints” , clothing and a fit-check contact transfer agent for machinists and inspectors, are most notable.     

   
At the aircraft plant. we needed a way to quickly indicate the percentage of contact between two hemispherical parts as in a ‘ball and socket’ assembly.  As I recall contact between the surfaces was to be 80% minimum, checked visually.  The problem with this dye was that it was mixed with a very thin grease,  at a ratio of about 95% finely divided dye to 5% grease.  Supplied in a little tin, like percussion caps come in, we absolutely dreaded opening those tins.  This dye was truly wretched stuff.  It was awful, icky, horrid and vile. It was also tenacious beyond belief. No matter how extremely careful you were in handling it and applying it to the parts, a tiny piece would escape and end up coloring a portion of your finger, clothing, bench, wipe rag, etc., etc. Inspectors would walk by oblivious to their blue noses, cheeks and foreheads after using this stuff.  It was the gift that kept on giving!!  Two months after it’s use you could pick up some Prussian Blue unknowingly in a different part of the shop and contaminate your work area all over again!

Tracy
Smokin' my pipe on the mountings, sniffin' the mornin'-cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o' my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners be'ind me, an' never a beggar forgets
It's only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - 'Tss! 'Tss!

From the poem  Screw-Guns  by Rudyard Kipling

Offline gunsonwheels

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #75 on: November 13, 2011, 05:28:09 PM »
M&T,
 
The last batch of 1018 rounds I bought from Corus in Seattle in 2002 were very reasonable (5", 6", 7" and 12").  They have been bought out and are now Encore and have a warehouse in Salt Lake City.  I have been keeping in contact with them in case I decide I need more barrel steel...
 
http://www.encoremetals.com/contactus.htm
 
You may want to check them out if you haven't already...
 
GOW

Offline Victor3

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #76 on: November 13, 2011, 08:16:47 PM »
 

    After calling quite a few suppliers we are beginning to think that maybe deep hole drilling and reaming  less than spendy,  solid rounds of 1018 steel might actually be cheaper than buying Expensive seamless mechanical tube. 
                                                   Supplier A    $ 192  delivered from Chicago, IL                                                  Supplier B    $ 237  delivered from Houston, TX                                                  Supplier C    $ 263  delivered from  SF, California

The specs for all of these bids were these:  One piece, low carbon steel, 1018, 1020, 1026 CDS,  36” long X 3” OD X 1” ID per A519.CDS, Cold Drawn Seamless should not cost this much, but it does in quantities less than half a ton.  The cost of solid 1018 rounds is much less, just slightly more than 1/3 of these costs. 

 
  This dye was truly wretched stuff.  It was awful, icky, horrid and vile. It was also tenacious beyond belief. No matter how extremely careful you were in handling it and applying it to the parts, a tiny piece would escape and end up coloring a portion of your finger, clothing, bench, wipe rag, etc., etc.Inspectors would walk by oblivious to their blue noses, cheeks and foreheads after using this stuff.  It was the gift that kept on giving!!  Two months after it’s use you could pick up some Prussian Blue unknowingly in a different part of the shop and contaminate your work area all over again!

Tracy

 Tracy,
 
 Thanks for getting those quotes. Darn... I don't remember it costing that much but it's been ~10 years since I ordered any and shipping was free; I just had EMJ put it on the truck with our other stuff.
 
 As for making from solid, I believe the cost of the finished product compared to starting with tube might be a wash (or worse) any way I look at it. What are your thoughts on how to do it cost-effectively for me, without leaving you with those "Guatemalan ditch digger" wages?  ;D
 
 Maybe thinner wall tube is the better option(?) Online metals sells 36" of 1" ID x 1/2" wall DOM for just over $90 (if you figure in the 10% off for orders over $100). I don't know what shipping would be. Online metals is high on some stuff though, so could probably get it for less elsewhere.
 
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9735&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=0
 
 Your comment about inspectors walking around with blue stuff on them brought back some memories. This tube of mine is over 20 years old and most of the bit that's gone from it over that time was smeared on telephone handsets, eye loupes and black Maglite flashlights.
 

 
 Just like guns, things are not in and of themselves "evil." It's just how they're used sometimes that give folks a bad imprussion;)
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes

Offline seacoastartillery

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #77 on: November 14, 2011, 04:52:58 PM »
   GOW,   Thanks for the tip.  We found that Encore Metals is a Canadian company, one of the companies like Team Tube, from whom I received one of those quotes, which is owned by Reliance Steel and Aluminum.  I will check them out and several others tomorrow. 
 
       Victor,   One area where we need extra efficiency is in the continuous removal of chips.  We have a good solid deep hole drilling and compressed air and water-sol cooling and chip removal system by Sterling Gun Drill Co. in North Bennington, Vermont.  Our problem is that we don't have the compressor volume to keep it going for more than 2" of 1" hole drilling.  Even a series of three similar sized compressors do not provide enough air volume for uninterrupted drilling of a 24" deep bore.  So one important efficiency improvement will be to rent a Sunbelt Rentals trailer housed compressor with 250 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) capacity which will exceed our calculated volume requirements by approx. 100%.  Last time we rented two compressors similar to our two stage 12.5 CFM unit, so we had about 40 CFM available.  This allowed us to drill for 5" of the 24".  We figure we need about 100 or maybe 125 CFM.  We will rent a 125 PSI, 250 CFM trailer mounted unit for 2 to 3 days which should allow us to run about 36 drilled and reamed tubes.  Of course we will have to invest in 4 drills of each size we produce, because each gun drill can cut only 3 bores of 24" depth. So we can drill 12 per day and then have two day turn-around for resharpening.  So actually it will take a week plus to do the 36 tubes and have them ready for rifling.  The rifling will take a month, roughly one per day. 
 
      Another benefit we have with this system is that no breech plugs are required.  We save a bunch of time and hassle there. We are set up for blind hole drilling, reaming and rifling, so there is no wasted time with learning curves, etc.  Most cannon makers today use seamless tube and it looks like we will be going one better with blind drilled steel rounds.  The big benefit of this system is that it will produce accurate cannon tubes and without accuracy, what good is a rifled cannon barrel?  Why buy a rifle with inferior accuracy?  We can't think of one reason to do so.  We can't.
 
 Tracy and Mike
 
 
 
 
Smokin' my pipe on the mountings, sniffin' the mornin'-cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o' my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners be'ind me, an' never a beggar forgets
It's only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - 'Tss! 'Tss!

From the poem  Screw-Guns  by Rudyard Kipling

Offline Victor3

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Re: Is there a need for cannon liner
« Reply #78 on: November 14, 2011, 11:53:52 PM »

      Another benefit we have with this system is that no breech plugs are required.  We save a bunch of time and hassle there. We are set up for blind hole drilling, reaming and rifling, so there is no wasted time with learning curves, etc.  Most cannon makers today use seamless tube and it looks like we will be going one better with blind drilled steel rounds.  The big benefit of this system is that it will produce accurate cannon tubes and without accuracy, what good is a rifled cannon barrel?  Why buy a rifle with inferior accuracy?  We can't think of one reason to do so.  We can't.
 
 Tracy and Mike

 M&T,
 
 No question about any of the above.
 
 A monolithic (monometallic?) tube would be awesome. Other than your creations, I've never seen a small, new-made rifled cannon that wasn't either sleeved or plugged.
 
 I'd forget about my breech loader plans if you were to make them this way. It would be much neater to have a front loader out of a solid hunk of steel.  :)
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly, one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts."

Sherlock Holmes