Questions about a Savage Model 12 LRPV SS Synth...

[big_bore]

in 22-250 to be used as a target and prairie dog gun.  I'm asking for actual field tested advice for any/all of my thoughts and questions below.  Also feel free to tell me I'm off my rocker before I pull the trigger on the purchase(s) below.

Obviously I will fine tune the gun to me and my expectations and work up my own loads once I purchase it, but I'm looking for your thoughts on my choices.

I have done a ton of research on varmint guns, calibers, optics and so much more, but found more opinions than real data on some of what I uncovered.

It looks like the 1:12 twist of the LRPV limits me to the 45-55gr bullets.  Yes/No?

I'm a reloader and I do put forth some energy (though I'm not OCD about it) tweaking the most accuracy I can out of a gun.

It looks like the Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint 50gr. (0.238BC) can achieve about 3736fps using the Nosler reloading data.  Anybody have data on this bullet in the LRPV?  Other recommendations? 

I expect to purchase Lapua brass for reloading.  It seems to be the highest quality stuff out there.  Thoughts?

I shoot Barnes TSX in my big game rifles with great accuracy (Weatherby .270, .300, .340 and a .375 H&H), so I also looked at Barnes bullets, but the Barnes 50gr Varmint Grenade factory data indicates a 1:9 or 1:8 twist is optimal.  This seems to be a discrepancy, thoughts?

At first, I thought I'd zero the gun in at 300 yards, but in looking at the charts from the ballistics program I wrote (accurate to well within 1% of published ballistics charts and field testing with my other rifles), it looks like I'd be better off with a 200 yard zero based on a zero hold (+/- 1") out to about 235 yards.  Thoughts on a 200 vs. 300 zero?

Finally, I'm looking to scope this gun with the Leupold VX-3L Long Range Extreme Varminter.  Would I be better off getting a lower power scope based on the ballistics of this cartridge?  The VX-3L LREV is a 6.5-20x56mm scope.  I have Leupold Vari-X II (2-7x) and Vari-X III (3-9x) on my Weatherbys and my sight picture at 200 and 300 yards is my limiting accuracy factor on paper targets.

Any other advice on any of my to-date decisions?

Thanks.  I'm really looking forward to putting together a great and accurate setup and maybe even getting out west yet this year.

[big_bore]

One last question for now.

Would I be further ahead shooting a moly/coated bullet such as Nosler's Combined Technology bullet in the SS barrel to reduce the barrel wear and fouling?

Thanks

[big_bore]

Well, I ordered the model 12 LRPV today with the Leupold VX-3L 6.5-20x56 extreme varminter scope - it's been over 5 years of saving to get this far and I'm excited.  I will mount the scope using Leupold rings and 2-pc base.

I should be able to start providing data in two or three weeks after I get it all set up and get it to the range a time or three.

'nuther question - I've got a 20 year old Harris BiPod that when you push the foot extender triggers, the feet shoot out (like what the current M-series does).  I haven't figured out the new Harris BiPods that when you push the triggers, the feet withdraw into the shortest position.  What's with that?  And why would I want the feet to retract like that?

Thanks

[heathp]

I bought an LRPV in 22-250 (1:12 twist barrel single shot) a couple years back. It will outshoot anything else in my safe except for the Savage 6BR I bought last year. The 22-250 shot every factory load I tried under an inch. With 55 bergers and 38.0 grains of H380, it will shoot consistent 1/4" groups at 100. 200 yard groups stay under 1/2".  55 grain berger with 32 grains of IMR 8208 shoots about the same way. In my opinion stay away from any moly bullets. It is a job to get that stuff out of the barrel. I have thought about buying another LRPV but getting a repeater to hunt with but with a fast twist barrel for heavy bullets.

[big_bore]

Thanks for the response heathp - good info to add to my research notes.

The shop called me back today - they can get a non-fluted barrel 2009 model sooner than a 2010 fluted barrel model.
(Model 12 LRPV # 18463 with detachable box mag.)

Other than the non-fluted vs. fluted barrel and the 1 pound difference in weight, what other differences are there in these 2 years?

Thanks

[moorepower]

As long as its the same twist, there should not be any. I kind of like the looks of my fluted 6mm br, but my .204 with Shillen barrel that is polished like a mirror looks good to.

[big_bore]

So I had it out to the range this weekend breaking in the barrel with factory ammunition.
I have not yet dialed in my 200 yard at-zero, but I'm reasonably close for this early in the game.
Ranges noted are what my Leupod range finder logged from my sitting position to the target.

I think I need to improve my windage compensation and estimating.
I thought gusting to 10mph was what was blowing - I may be wrong....  I may need to get a Kestrel meter to improve my accuracy - my 200 yard shots looked like they were affected by stronger gusts than 10mph, or I consistently pulled the shots wide left - I can't say right now without more data/trigger time with this gun.

Here's selected results from yesterday and today - just the facts (and no, the dime is not covering any bullet holes in any of the pictures):

[Slowpoke Slim]

My factory Savage 22-250 bbl liked the 50 gr Hornady Vmax more than the 50 gr Nosler ballistic tip. The best groups the barrel shot was with 38.0 grs of H-380. Any more powder opened up the group.

I'm now shooting a McGowen bbl, with a 1-9" twist. I'm still shooting the 50 gr Hornady Vmax, but now I can shoot the Nosler ballistic tips into just as good a group, and I can shoot a max powder charge in each bullet and keep my groups from opening up.