I bought a new scale tonight.

[DalesCarpentry]

I bought a new RCBS 502 scale tonight. Before that all I had was a Lee Perfect Powder Scale that I never even tried to use and a Hornady electronic scale that takes batteries. The Lee scale was hard to read and I did not trust a battery operated scale. So I broke down and bought a new RCBS scale tonight. It almost killed me to spend $68.00 on it but I feel better now. The reason I bought this scale is because I used my neighbors before I bought the Hornady scale and liked it a lot. So tell me did I make a good choice in scales? If you own one do you like it? Will it be the last one I ever buy besides buying the RCBS Loadmaster or simular? Thanks and take care Dale

[wncchester]

"Will it be the last one I ever buy .."

You will never wear out a balance scale nor will it lose accuracy.  Don't beat it up and it'll last forever.

DON'T try to use it sitting on the bench.  Make a shelf or box to set it on, near chin level, for easy reading and it will be as fast and easy to use as anything digital but MUCH more dependable.

[PowPow]

Love my Lee Safety Scale, which is similar.
 
I like it because its weight, not volume. Four (ok, five) years of mechanical engineering school and a childhood of reading the statement on cereal boxes (sold by weight, not by volume; some settling of the contents may occur) has me wary of volumetric measurement for anything involving a chemical reaction and a tremendous release of energy, be it smokeless powder or Frosted Flakes.

A balance scale is only as good as its last calibration. My scale drifts about an eyelash between sessions. If I ignore it for 5 sessions, I am off by five eyelashes. Takes a minute to recalibrate it.

You are loading for 22-250 which take approx 35-40 gr of powder.
If that scale did not come with some reference calibration weight, take a 40 grain bullet and calibrate the scale to 40 gr off that bullet and keep that particular bullet with that scale forever. Every loading session, calibrate the scale to that 40 grain bullet.
(Folks who load for a 308 or 30-06 should use a 50-55 grain bullet for reference)

For the loads you have already developed; depending on how obsessive you are, consider wasting a twenty cent bullet and seeing what this scale weighs the charge out in grams, might be different from what you thought by a tenth or two. But now you will have a value referenced to that scale; it will be referenced to the weight of that bullet, so it to will be repeatable forever.

[Scibaer]

i have the Lee scales, a Hornady scale, a digital scale and the RCBS 505 scale..
without question i use the 505's for 95% of my handloading..
i have a small block of wood, the top is cut at 45 degrees and it has a mirror glued to it, that way i dont have to be eye level with the
zero indicator on any of my scales. i use a RCBS powder trickler with the scales and my charges are accurate as can be.
Dale, you did good buying the 502. one hint, be sure the surface you have the scale on is sturdy and level.

[Swampman]

I've used the 502 for years.

[Curtis]

take a 40 grain bullet and calibrate the scale to 40 gr off that bullet and keep that particular bullet with that scale forever

I cannot agree, although keeping the same bullet as a reference forever is good to mention if you decide on this "work around".  I love work arounds as well as the next guy but not in this instance.  I want to know what my charges are for sure, and a calibration weight set is only $25 at Midway:  http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=212586

Curtis

[necchi]

 Ya it's only as good as the calibration, and Yes it's good to have a calibration set, But the simple fact is most beam scales are only accurate too +/-.1 anyway's.
 That's plenty accurate for most loaders. The idea is to have a "repeatable" measurement. I'm lucky enough to work at a place that has a really spendy, high end electronic scale. I weighed a paper clip, a nickel, a dime and a quater and use those to calibrate.
 My bench is small, I have to move my scale when I need it. So it's calibrated each time I use it.
 The best advise I got to care for my scale, and it's in the instructions, is to remove the beam when it's not in use. The knife edge pivot point on the beam CAN wear on the bearings and some accuracy can be lost.
 If treated and cared for as a sensitive instrument, it can last a LONNGGG time. Mines going on 10yrs, I still have it's original box.

[PowPow]

...a calibration weight set is only $25 at Midway:  http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=212586
...

I looked at that kit. If it comes with certification that the calibration is tracable to the National Institute of Standards and Technology, its a good deal. If not, its no better than my 13 cent Hornady bullet. Both are based on trusting a manufacturer to do what they say they are going to do. It comes down to who do you trust to be "good enough" to get you to +/-0.1 grains. I think Lee, Hornady and Lyman are all have the competency to do that. If we really needed to be absolutely sure, we wouldn't be using scales that cost less than $100.

(there are probably some Lee Dipper users out there getting 1/4" groups who are laughing at all us scale users)

[PowPow]

...remove the beam when it's not in use...

Great advice. did not see it in my instructions. gonna do it right now.

[Curtis]

I'm lucky enough to work at a place that has a really spendy, high end electronic scale.

Rule of thumb for reference instruments is that they have at least ten times the accuracy and resolution as the instrument that you are calibrating.  In your case I'm positive that your method is sound.

If we really needed to be absolutely sure, we wouldn't be using scales that cost less than $100.

True

Curtis

P.S.  PowPow, I'm sure a N.I.S.T. traceable cal weight set would cost more than our scales.  LOL

[PowPow]

Now I might trust a weight tracable to necchi.

NIST tracable weights cost more than my scale and my car:
http://www.nist.gov/ts/msd/calibrations/mass_standards.cfm#22010c

Wonder how many folks out there never thought to check the calibration of their scale because they bought a "good" one?
They may be the ones who don't know why they are loading under max and getting pressure signs.

[necchi]

They may be the ones who don't know why they are loading under max and getting pressure signs.

 Geez, Ya got that right. Once I get mine set-up, if I move it so much as an inch across the table that darn needle is off again,,tweek,,tweek on that little screw all over agin just to get it right.

 Ya know I never really cared what the book's say as far as max, don't get me wrong I always use it as I use it as a guide,,an I don't care how my load compares to the spread of book load weights, I just want my scale to measure the same weight I found to be accurate in my gun according to my scale each time. (usually far under max)
 I haven't done it, but I would fully expect my weighed charge to be different on another mans scale, maybe not much, but different

[PowPow]

Resolution is a good to know, and I'm need to figure it out for myself; how much needle movement 0.1 grain really is on my scale.
You watch the thing bob back and forth, or trickle up to the line and its never perfectly on the line.

I need to go measure out 38 gr, and then set it on 37.9 and 38.1 and see where that really is in relation to the balance line.
If its indescernable, maybe I shoud get a better scale, or quit kidding myself.
If its a long way from the line, maybe I could measure out a little faster.

[DalesCarpentry]

i have the Lee scales, a Hornady scale, a digital scale and the RCBS 505 scale..
without question i use the 505's for 95% of my handloading..
i have a small block of wood, the top is cut at 45 degrees and it has a mirror glued to it, that way i dont have to be eye level with the
zero indicator on any of my scales. i use a RCBS powder trickler with the scales and my charges are accurate as can be.
Dale, you did good buying the 502. one hint, be sure the surface you have the scale on is sturdy and level.

That sounds like a good idea. Do you think you could post a picture of the block of wood with the mirror on it and a picture of how you use it with the scale? Thanks for the great idea. Dale

[johnjohn]

Keep- the dust off of it. Big paper towels work good.

[briannmilewis]

(there are probably some Lee Dipper users out there getting 1/4" groups who are laughing at all us scale users)


When I was reloading for my Hornet, I took two Lee Dippers and calibrated them by filing the top lip down until they dispensed an exact grain amount of L'il Gun when they were full to the brim. All I had to do was fill up the dipper, tap it to level it off, then weigh it, do that three times to make sure it was consistent, and then just get on with loading using the dippers.

[PowPow]

...I took two Lee Dippers and calibrated them by filing the top lip down until they dispensed an exact grain amount...

I did a similar thing; dripped candle wax in the bottom of the dipper until the remaining volume was what I wanted. Now I can scrape the wax out to go back to the original size.

[briannmilewis]

...I took two Lee Dippers and calibrated them by filing the top lip down until they dispensed an exact grain amount...

I did a similar thing; dripped candle wax in the bottom of the dipper until the remaining volume was what I wanted. Now I can scrape the wax out to go back to the original size.

Better solution than mine, I will take you idea when I start reloading again.