Author Topic: Dumb Question About Reloading For the 500 S&W (or any straight-wall case)  (Read 862 times)

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Offline Retsof

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Hello. I've been reloading for a few years but only for bottle-neck cases. I plan on reloading for my H&R rifle in 500 S&W, which is of course a straight-wall case. So, I have a couple of questions: 1) In the Barnes #4 Manual (the only manual I currently have which includes the 500 S&W cartridge), the cartridge specs list the case diameter as 0.530" (cylindrical). Considering this, how exactly does a case resizing die work (ie, does it squeeze the neck down slightly to hold the bullet)?; and, 2) After firing a round in a rifle and reloading that case for use in the same rifle (in this case my H&R), how do you check for proper headspace (if there is such a thing for straight-wall cases)? This is relatively easy for me with bottle-necked cases to ensure you don't move the shoulder back but obviously I don't have a clue about straight-wall cases. Is it as simple as just checking the case length (and trimming if needed) and also checking the case diameter?

I'm sure the answers are simple but I'm just having a hard time visualizing this for straight-wall cases.

Thanks.

Offline Swampman

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Run it all the way in the die and trim it when it needs it.
"Brother, you say there is but one way to worship and serve the Great Spirit. If there is but one religion, why do you white people differ so much about it? Why not all agreed, as you can all read the Book?" Sogoyewapha, "Red Jacket" - Senaca

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Offline Bigeasy

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Assuming you are using a carbide sizing die, you just screw it in til it touches the shell holder, then back off about an 8th of a turn.  Ready to go.  You don't want the carbide sizing ring touching the shell holder, as carbide is hard, but brittle, and can crack when forced against the shell holder.  Being a straight wall case, the sizing die basically just slides down the length of the case, sizing it back to factory specs, allowing you to seat a bullet with the needed bullet pull (friction) to hold it in place.  The crimp seals the deal.  Just like a bottle neck case, you should use a slight flare to the case mouth to assist in seating the bullet.  The case headspaces on the rim.  Trimming is important, as you will have a hard time getting consistent crimps with cases that vary in length.  Even though you are shooting in a single shot rifle, you still want to use a crimp when loading the .500 with slow burning powders, as powders like 296 and 110 need a heavy bullet crimp for proper powder burn.  Strait wall cases tend to stretch less then bottleneck cases, so trimming is not needed on every firing.  Just sit there and visualize what each step is doing, and it becomes pretty clear after a few loadings.

Larry
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Offline Retsof

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Swampman & Bigeasy,

I very much appreciate you guts taking the time to respond. I now "get it".

Thanks.

Offline Retsof

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I apologize for the typo in my previous post. I obviously meant to say "guys". Spelling wasn't my best subject in school (lunch and recreation were though).

Offline darkgael

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Just a quick note since you have noted that you are new to loading straight walled cases.

"or any straight-walled case".
The advice you've gotten is good. Extra note: not all straight-walled cases headspace on their rim. Some straight walled cases (Stwcs) do not have a rim....the .45 ACP is a good example and can be made to headspace on the case mouth, or on the extractor, or on the bullet. The bullet is best,  extractor the least.
Stwcs may not show the standard pressure signs or when they do show signs, they may not be overpressure. Bottom line is that you have to be careful about max loads as the effects can be difficult to interpret.
Pete

Offline Grumulkin

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I presume you know that after resizing, you have to bell the mouth of the case a little to seat a bullet; that's what the 3rd die in straight wall reloading die sets is for.

Also, when reloading for single shot rifles/handguns which includes a 500 S&W Magnum, I neither trim nor crimp.

Offline buck460XVR

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I haven't loaded .500 S&W for rifle, but I have loaded it's brother the .460 S&W for a single shot Encore. The info Bigeasy gave you is spot on. Only thing I would add is, I suggest even with carbide dies to use a little lube. I found that lubing every other case of the big S&W mags just a tad, makes sizing much easier. Again....... altho crimping was not needed in the single shot to keep the bullets from moving as in my revolver, I still found the most accurate and consistent loads were ones with a firm crimp when using slow burning powders such as H110/W296, Lil Gun and IMR4227. Lyman's 49th also recommends a firm crimp with these powders in a single shot  chambered in .460 S&W and .500 S&W.


I presume you know that after resizing, you have to bell the mouth of the case a little to seat a bullet; that's what the 3rd die in straight wall reloading die sets is for.

Also, when reloading for single shot rifles/handguns which includes a 500 S&W Magnum, I neither trim nor crimp.

........in all my RCBS carbide sets for handgun cartridges, the belling/flare die is always the second die and the third is the seating and crimping die. I also believe that even in the lee 4 die sets, the belling die is the second die, the 3rd die is the seating die and the fourth die is the crimp die. I ain't saying that Grumulkin is wrong, just saying every brand might not be the same. But since you've already been reloading for a while...... I assume you already know that.
"where'd you get the gun....son?"

Offline Retsof

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Thanks to everyone for your advice. Yes, I was aware of the additional die for straight wall cases, though I'm still glad it was mentioned. I know what the word "assume" really means, especially since I'm relatively new to reloading. Actually, even though this is an extra cost item, I was planning on also getting a Lyman "M" die to expand the case mouth. I've used this for bottle-neck cases and have grown to like them.

Offline DDZ

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I generally work in a high risk environment, and I tell every new employee that starts with the company. Never be afraid to ask a question, even if you think it may be a dumb question. There are no dumb questions when it could possibly have detrimental effects on you or others.
I believe the same goes for cartridge reloading. Never assume a question is dumb, and never be embarrassed to ask. There are many experienced reloaders here, and many are more than willing to be able to help someone that has a question or problem.   
Those people who will not be governed by God will be ruled by tyrants.    Wm. Penn

Offline BCB

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Retsof,

After the case has been full-length sized and fired once in your rifle, just size the case down from the mouth as far as the bullet is seated into the case…

This will help eliminate the bulge that most likely will occur at the base of the seated bullet in a full-length sized case…

I never size a straight-walled case more than the depth of the seated bullet…

Good-luck…BCB

Offline Swampman

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That might be ok for some applications.
"Brother, you say there is but one way to worship and serve the Great Spirit. If there is but one religion, why do you white people differ so much about it? Why not all agreed, as you can all read the Book?" Sogoyewapha, "Red Jacket" - Senaca

1st Special Operations Wing 1975-1983
919th Special Operations Wing  1983-1985 1993-1994

"Manus haec inimica tyrannis / Ense petit placidam sub libertate quietem" ~Algernon Sidney~

Offline BCB

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That might be ok for some applications.

I size that way for 25 acp, 9x18 Makarov, 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 44 Special, 44 Magnum, 445 Super Magnum, 45 Long Colt and the obsolete 32 Long Colt…

These are all shot from handguns or rifles and some are shot in both…

Never a problem with sizing to the depth of the bullet at all…

But there always might be exceptions—I’ve yet to find that exception…

A bulge in the case mouth area is pretty unsightly in my opinion…

Good-luck…BCB

Offline Retsof

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Retsof,

After the case has been full-length sized and fired once in your rifle, just size the case down from the mouth as far as the bullet is seated into the case…

This will help eliminate the bulge that most likely will occur at the base of the seated bullet in a full-length sized case…

I never size a straight-walled case more than the depth of the seated bullet…

Good-luck…BCB

BCB, Thanks for that advice. I'll try that, when I start to use once-fired cases.