How to re-blue?

[JimG]

My 20 gauge USH has a very poor quality blueing on the frame. I've tried several types of cold blue including Brownells with no luck. Short of having the frame rust blued what can I do?

[quickdtoo]

I've done a frame and several barrels with Brownell's Oxpho Blue creme, it's all in how you do it, it won't be a hot blue quality, but it's very nice. You might check with H&R, rebluing was listed on the Gardner retail parts price list for $25 or $35, Ilion may still do it, toll free (866)776-9292.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,127424.msg1098458823.html#msg1098458823

[mrussel]

I've done a frame and several barrels with Brownell's Oxpho Blue creme, it's all in how you do it, it won't be a hot blue quality, but it's very nice. You might check with H&R, rebluing was listed on the Gardner retail parts price list for $25 or $35, Ilion may still do it, toll free (866)776-9292.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,127424.msg1098458823.html#msg1098458823

 Ive tried several of the cold bluing liquids. The Birchwood Casey didnt worth anything. The Brownels Oxpho Blue liquid worked very well. Your not going to mistake it for hot blue but it was a solid product.

[quickdtoo]

I've used the liquid too, it works best on small parts, but the creme is the way to go on large parts, I've done a frame and two barrels and am very happy with the results.

Tim

[kf4ocv]

Will this hurt the value of it,  if it is 41 years old?

[mrussel]

Will this hurt the value of it,  if it is 41 years old?

 Does it have any actual collectors value or is its worth just as something to shoot? If its value is just to shoot,the only loss (or gain) in value would be based on the quality of the job. If it has value as a collectable in any sense,then yes,it would hurt the value. Collectors often prefer a worn original finish to a perfect non original finish. Thats why any time I get an old gun that I would consider any changes too like reparkerizing or refinishing the stock,or whatever,I always check to make 100% certain that I know anything about the guns history and when it was made that I can. I got an old french 32 once for instance and the first thing I did was made sure that it was not collectible. It turned out it was made in the 1950s rather than being one of the ones made during WW2. I could be certain that it was due to a change that was made after WW2 so I felt comfortable refinishing it as a practice project. If it had a nazi proof on it and been made in WW2 though,I would not have touched it,even in the bad shape it was in.