measure your draw length?

[scout4]

Hey All! I have a simple question. I have always measured the draw length on a recurve bow from the full drawn arrow to the back side of the bow. I've seen where some places measure the draw length from full draw to the belly side of the riser which kind of makes sense to me, because when you bring your bow to full draw and then anchor your draw the actual length you have drawn the arrow is from the bottom of the string nock to the belly side/ the side toward you, of the bows riser. Think just a moment, if you measure draw length to the front of the riser do you not add at least 2-2.5 inches because of the width of the recurve riser? now measure the same way on the narrower handle of a longbow,you may only have about a 1.5" wide handle. So you see, measurement from the string to the side of the riser toward you as you bring your bow to full draw is always the same from recurve to longbow. Opinions are welcomed! Thanks! scout4<><

[All Hawks Kill]

Hey there Scout, how you been?  When I'm building arrows for someone new or don't know what there draw length is, I measure to the front of the (side away from the shooter) of the shelf on traditional bows.  This gives you a good starting point for the arrow's overall length, which needs to be at least an inch longer than that measurement.  This way there will be enough clearance for broadheads.  Now that isn't the only thing that will determine what length arrows someone might need.  Hope this makes since......

[scout4]

Hey All Hawks! Thanks! What I meant is for your draw length. The arrow length will always be longer to safely extend past the riser at full draw. Anyway, have a good day! scout4<><

[All Hawks Kill]

I was taught that it the measurement from the bottom of the nock opening to the front (side away from you) of the shelf.  That really only applies to traditional bows.  For compounds they generally measure from the bottom of the nock opening to the cent of the rest bolt (bolt that holds the rest to the riser).

[scout4]

Okay Buddy, you're partly right! True draw length is measured just as you say, from the bottom of the arrow nock to the center of the arrow rest bolt, or the low spot in the handle of a recurve bow riser. But what about the straight handle longbow? Think about it? If you draw and anchor at the same point with that longbow as you do a recurve and you mark the arrow in measuring to the front side of the bow-the side away from you- the measurement will show about an inch shorter?...But, if you measured your draw length to the back side of that longbow-the side toward you- your draw length measurement would be just about the same. So instead of the 28" draw length you always thought you were doing, your draw length is actually 25.5" as measured on a 2.5"wide recurve bow riser!   Now according to that, unless the AMO standard draw length measurement is used to determine your bows 50# @ 28", you are really drawing about 44# But do not get discouraged, because about 92% of the bows made today are measured out by the AMO standard   Thank You! And have a good evening! scout4<><

[Frank V]

A really easy way to measure draw length is to take a large leaf, or a piece of paper that is just a little stiff & about 3-4" in diameter. I poke a hole in it near the center with my arrow, then with the bow at rest, put the arrow on the string with the leaf/paper in front of the riser. Then I draw just as if I were going to shoot & let down. I measure the distance between the bottom of the nock & leaf/paper, that's my draw. I do it several times & average it. I like to cut my arrows about 3" longer than my draw to be sure the broadhead is well in front of my tender fingers.
 It's an easy way for me to measure draw length.
Frank

[All Hawks Kill]

Okay Buddy, you're partly right! True draw length is measured just as you say, from the bottom of the arrow nock to the center of the arrow rest bolt, or the low spot in the handle of a recurve bow riser. But what about the straight handle longbow? Think about it? If you draw and anchor at the same point with that longbow as you do a recurve and you mark the arrow in measuring to the front side of the bow-the side away from you- the measurement will show about an inch shorter?...But, if you measured your draw length to the back side of that longbow-the side toward you- your draw length measurement would be just about the same. So instead of the 28" draw length you always thought you were doing, your draw length is actually 25.5" as measured on a 2.5"wide recurve bow riser!   Now according to that, unless the AMO standard draw length measurement is used to determine your bows 50# @ 28", you are really drawing about 44# But do not get discouraged, because about 92% of the bows made today are measured out by the AMO standard   Thank You! And have a good evening! scout4<><

Now I see where you are going with this.   Let me talk with my buddy Tony Semenuk, he is the bowyer at White Wolf Bows and find out for sure.  I've always known my DL to be 27" so I know any bow I buy is about 2 pounds lighter than what AMO draw weight is listed.  This doesn't change too much from longbow to longbow, though it could.  Recurves are a different story and they sometimes can add or subtract 3# per inch and if your draw is long enough to cause the recurve to stack then that even changes more.  I won't be able to get in touch with Tony until this evening at the earliest, but I'll get an answer.

[scout4]

Yeah All Hawks! You got it! I will be very interested in what your bowyer friend has to say. Thanks! scout4<><

[Casull]

The holding point of your bow hand is really in the pocket between your thumb and index finger.  Accordingly, this puts it at the "narrow" portion of the riser on a recurve.  Therefore, I don't think it really makes too much difference.  If you look at the thickness of a recurve riser at this narrow point, it's not that much different in thickness (from belly to back of bow) than a longbow.  If it were, your fingers would not be able to reach around the grip very well.  Whatever portion of the riser that extends back (toward the shooter) beyond the thumb, index finger "pocket" has absolutely no effect on draw length.  Hope that helps (if you can decipher my meaning).  

[Frank V]

Most people draw about an inch shorter with a long bow than they do with a recurve. I know I do actual measurments. I've done it two ways, with the leaf/paper method & having my Wife mark the arrow when I drew it & got to full draw. You need to take several measurments to get an average unless you are a machine & can get to the same anchor each time.
Frank

[scout4]

Hey Frank V, I understand what you're doing, but the measurement is still from the front side of the bow? If that is so, then would you not have an inch less in draw length measurement because of the 1 inch less width of the longbow handle as compared to the usual 2.5 inch width of a recurve riser? Thanks! scout4<><

[Empty Quiver]

I believe you are correct. Generally speaking I am interested in arrow length, so the former measurement is more meaningful. I suppose however, if one were specifying draw length on a custom made bow getting the measurement done properly would be important.

Something else to consider is this. A heavy bow will generally not be drawn as far as a light bow. All of your joints tend to crush with the additional weight. That 20# test bow at the shop might show a 30" draw, but I'll bet the 63# recurve will rarely see 28 1/2" in the real world. 

[Frank V]

Hey Frank V, I understand what you're doing, but the measurement is still from the front side of the bow? If that is so, then would you not have an inch less in draw length measurement because of the 1 inch less width of the longbow handle as compared to the usual 2.5 inch width of a recurve riser? Thanks! scout4<><

Yes, most people do draw a shorter arrow with a longbow than they do with a recurve I sure do. I draw 1-1/2" longer with a recurve than I do with a longbow. It's how the bow is held. I still measure to the face of the bow not the center of the shelf. I've don't shoot an arrow from the center of the shelf, that would put the point behind the face of the bow, & except for a field point would be WAY too short. I measure to the face of the bow & then cut my arrows 3" longer to give error in drawing a broadhead.
  If others want to do differently, that's fine with me & I'm not going to argue with them. What works for others if fine, I'm just saying how I do it.

[scout4]

Thank You Empty Quiver! I'm glad you understand what I've been trying to point out. Thanks! scout4<><

[Casull]

I'm not sure if I made myself understood, but the narrow part of a recurve riser (the part that your hand actually "pushes" against) is little, if any, thicker from back to belly than the typical longbow handle.  Accordingly, your arrow length should be about the same with either.

[scout4]

If the arrow shoots straight, thats good enough and all that really matters. Thanks! scout4<><

[Cottonwood]

I know one guy that shoots arrows 3" the other side of his riser, and quite accurately I might add.

[Frank V]

I know one guy that shoots arrows 3" the other side of his riser, and quite accurately I might add.

I try to have about 3" of arrow sticking out from my bow. I like the idea of having my broadhead a bit farther away from my fingers than having my arrows cut exactly to my draw.
 Years ago we'd leave about 3" sticking out & carry a taper tool, cigarrett lighter, & ferrel tight to recut & retaper & glue field points back on  arrows we broke. We were young & couldn't afford to replace "whole arrows" when we broke one, which was often.
Frank

[Cottonwood]

Frank,  many that transition from compound to traditional can not understand that.  I hear it time and time again from them that their draw length is 28" so they are cutting their arrows right at 28", and then find out the hard way.

[scout4]

My draw length measurement according to the AMO standard is 26" on a recurve bow. The arrows I choose to shoot are 30" long to the back of point, and they shoot beautifully. The reason for that length is for correct spine. If I wanted to shoot a lighter 5/16" dia. arrow with the correct spine then I'm sure the arrows would be much shorter with a lighter point. I just really like big arrows! scout4<><

[Frank V]

Frank,  many that transition from compound to traditional can not understand that.  I hear it time and time again from them that their draw length is 28" so they are cutting their arrows right at 28", and then find out the hard way.

Another thing I see from time to time with compounds is an overdraw, with the arrow in the middle or behind the riser. That always makes the hair on the back of my neck kind of stand up. It wouldn't take much of an accident to have the arrow fall off the rest & go right into your wrist.
  I always feel better with a little arrow sticking out front so even if I get excited & overdraw some the broadhead is in FRONT of my fingers.
Frank

Scout4, a good friend Bob Burton, who builds custom arrows www.whisperingwindarrows.com has told me that shortening arrows will stiffen the spine. I'm not sure how much stiffer an inch will make, but I have seen my arrows fly differently after shortening them enough to replace a broken off field point. We probably could start with an arrow a bit light for our bow but at full length, say 30 or 31", & shorten it till it flew properly. Spine can make a great difference in how well an arrow will fly.
Frank