Advice

[whitetailmaniac]

I have this bow that my dad gave me a few years back. I think he bought it in the 70's. It was made by Wing Archery. I have shot it some and seem to do pretty good with it. The arrows I shoot in it are the same ones I shoot in my compound. They fly bad! What is the best way to find the right spine for this bow? I want to shoot carbon and have looked at 3 rivers. I am thinking about getting one of the test kits but some of you may know a better way.

     Thanks Chris

Some pics

[1 farmer]

The test kit isnt a bad way to start. If you know how far you are actualy drawing the bow and the point weight you want to use you could give them a call for a recomendation. The weight on the bow 50# is measured at 28" of draw. Anything over or under would be around 2-3lbs per inch more or less. Usualy but not always, something in the 500 spine range works pretty well for a 50lb bow.
If it were me I would get the test kit and shoot some bare shafts with the point to see how each size arrow flys. Its worth the time because a good flying arrow will take your shooting to a new level.

[Cottonwood]

I have this bow that my dad gave me a few years back. I think he bought it in the 70's. It was made by Wing Archery. I have shot it some and seem to do pretty good with it. The arrows I shoot in it are the same ones I shoot in my compound. They fly bad! What is the best way to find the right spine for this bow? I want to shoot carbon and have looked at 3 rivers. I am thinking about getting one of the test kits but some of you may know a better way.

     Thanks Chris

Chris, are your carbon arrows fletched with blazers or plastic vanes?  You need to fletch your arrows with feathers BTW.  I shoot a Chirun/Samick Spikeman 50# recurve and I use the Carbon Express Heritage 150's which are 10 gr per inch at 30" with a 165 gr field tip giving me a total arrow weight of 604 gr and shot from my 50# recurve these fly like darts.  Again, your carbon arrows need to be feather fletched for traditional bows.

[Frank V]

I have this bow that my dad gave me a few years back. I think he bought it in the 70's. It was made by Wing Archery. I have shot it some and seem to do pretty good with it. The arrows I shoot in it are the same ones I shoot in my compound. They fly bad! What is the best way to find the right spine for this bow? I want to shoot carbon and have looked at 3 rivers. I am thinking about getting one of the test kits but some of you may know a better way.

     Thanks Chris

Chris, are your carbon arrows fletched with blazers or plastic vanes?  You need to fletch your arrows with feathers BTW.  I shoot a Chirun/Samick Spikeman 50# recurve and I use the Carbon Express Heritage 150's which are 10 gr per inch at 30" with a 165 gr field tip giving me a total arrow weight of 604 gr and shot from my 50# recurve these fly like darts.  Again, your carbon arrows need to be feather fletched for traditional bows.

Chris, I think Cottonwood is correct here. I've tried plastic vanes on my recurve thinking I could ignore rain & snow with them,  & they kicked sideways like crazy & almost pulled the leather arrow rest off my bow. I gave up after two tries.
Frank

[All Hawks Kill]

First let me say that Cottenwood is 110% correct about the needing feathers!

Now as far as finding the right spine for arrows there are a couple different means of getting to the same end point.

First you need to choose the type of shaft you want to shoot.  I would recommend for any beginner to go with carbon because they are 100% straight and you don't got that with wood, never. 

Next you need to select a carbon shaft in the weight range for you bow.  If the weight is 50 lbs. at 28 inches but you draw 29 inches then your draw weight will be 52 lbs.  I would recommend a carbon in the 150/400/3555 range (depending on the manufacturer the spining is designated differently).  If your draw weight is 55 you need a 250/300/5575 and if it is 45 you need a 90/500/3555. 

Next decide how long you want your arrows.  The shorter the arrow the stiffer the spine becomes.  So if you cut a 150 down to 25 inches it is now in the 250 range.  I would recommend not to cut an arrow any shorter than 29 inches unless a good Arrowsmith is involved in the arrow making (not a bow shop or 3rivers or Bass Pro, but a good Arrowsmith.

Next order a field point test kit from 3rivers that gives you 2 heads from 100 to 225 grains. 

Then you are ready to bare shaft tune.  From 15 yards start with two shafts that have nock and insert installed.  The put the 100 grain heads on them and shot them.  Watch the arrow fly and make note of it.  Move up in weight of your points and shoot again.  Continue this until you have shot the 225 heads.  Then the heads that flew the best bare shafted is the weight you want to continue to use.

[whitetailmaniac]

Thanks guys thats what im looking for 

     Chris

[squirrellluck]

OT but Frank try using left wing feathers in a right helical or right wing in left helical. Just about the best rainy weather solution I have found. They are a pain to glue up but worth it

[All Hawks Kill]

OT but Frank try using left wing feathers in a right helical or right wing in left helical. Just about the best rainy weather solution I have found. They are a pain to glue up but worth it

That is an option, the other is to setup in a nice blind that stays dry rain or shine.....

[squirrellluck]

What fun is that