More ejector problems

[ironglow]

  I just purchased a .243 Win ultra-light barrel from another member of GBO and The ejector seems to be giving me problems. At first it would not function very well with an empty chamber, sticking on every 3-4 try. I could see a bit of drag on the sides of the ejector (which is .20" wide), so I stoned it lightly...seems to work OK on empty chamber.
   I have only tried empties so far, but at least half of them stay stuck in the chamber with the ejector stuck in it's recess as well, any suggestions?
   Peering into the empty chamber, I see a ring formed about 1/2" into the chamber. It may or may not be a hairline deposit of brass, as if somebody experienced an "incipient head separation" which deposited a small amount of brass. Is this possible? Can I use some emery cloth or crocus cloth wrapped around a dowell rod to clean the chamber?

  Also; with the action fully open, the ejector seems to droop just enough to allow the shell case to pass right by the ejector lip. If I partially close the action to where the ejector contacts the firing pin face, it raises just enough to make it work well..no time for this while hunting..
   Advice, please, would like it ready for deer season...Ironglow

[quickdtoo]

I'd polish the chamber with one of the methods in the FAQs, and make sure the lift button and spring are present in the ejector housing and working right, it's not uncommon for one or the other to be missing or not serviceable, there's a pic in the FAQs of the parts in their relative position, the graphic by Perklo is reversed tho with the lift spring on the wrong end of the ejector latch and it doesn't show the lift button which isn't used on rimmed chamberings. Also add a BB in front of the ejector spring to increase tension.

Tim

[ironglow]

Thanks Tim, I forgot to mention that I tried the barrel in my only SB2 action AND my Sportster action as well as my Versa-pack action . Worked the same in all three..I will go to the FAQs as you indicated and check them out..ironglow

[thejanitor]

  Also; with the action fully open, the ejector seems to droop just enough to allow the shell case to pass right by the ejector lip. If I partially close the action to where the ejector contacts the firing pin face, it raises just enough to make it work well..no time for this while hunting..
   Advice, please, would like it ready for deer season...Ironglow

My newest (newer) 2 handis have this drop away ejector and it functions just like yours in that if you do not have the action all the way broke open it will hang up the new shell going in. It has never been an issue for the deer I have shot with these two guns but the one in the chamber first was the only one I needed... , but as long as the gun is fully opened the second shot is no problem. The only place I have had an issue is shooting off a bench and not lowering the gun- muzzle down position- just keeping the gun half in the cradle of the rest. It works fine, just different than the 30-30 & 45-70. thejanitor

[quickdtoo]

All rimless chambered ejectors drop down as the action opens all the way, they're designed to do that. 

Tim

[guns-o-fun]

   Also; with the action fully open, the ejector seems to droop just enough to allow the shell case to pass right by the ejector lip. If I partially close the action to where the ejector contacts the firing pin face, it raises just enough to make it work well..no time for this while hunting..
   Advice, please, would like it ready for deer season...Ironglow

I know the ejector droop problem quite well.  It misses the groove in front of the case head "rim" and the "rim" itself completely because it sits quite low.  Adjusting the spring tension and polishing the chamber does not help this particular problem.  I have it on a 270 barrel that I bought on this forum.  I did those fixes and more - it just misses the rim on the rimless cartridge altogether.  I finally just got another rimmed cartridge ejector (because it is thicker and has a taller vertical catch for the cartridge).  I will need to do some grinding, I assume, to get everything to fit, but there will be no more droop when I am done.  I believe it is a 357 Max extractor.  According to Brownell's. BTW, the original ejector is no longer manufacutered by H&R, so it is not a question of getting a new one and seeing if I can make that one work.  The 357 Max extractor has the same overall diminsions - except for the taller (and thicker) vertical blade, and a thicker shaft - which should eliminate the droop altogether.

[guns-o-fun]

I just saw Tim's last post.  The problem with mine was, it would not only fail to eject the shells, when you closed the action, the cartridge rim would move right past the ejector blade and not be engaged at all. 

[quickdtoo]

Brownell's doesn't sell any extractors that I've seen, only ejectors, extractors won't work in an ejector housing, they're too long. If the ejector is missing the rim, either it's the wrong ejector or it's worn, or the spring or lift button is the problem, weak/wrong lift spring or the button is worn/missing, could be a bad ejector latch too.

Tim

[guns-o-fun]

My bad.  I said extractor and I meant ejector.  It is a 357 max ejector.  Wherever I said "extractor" substitue "ejector."  Sorry.

[ironglow]

   While disassembling and removing the pins from the ejector, does the old axiom "lefty, loosey..righty, tighty" apply to those pins,. or are they straight pins?

[quickdtoo]

Either way works, they're just smooth roll pins. 

Tim

[bikerbeans]

Tim,

A little bit of a thread hijack.  Did older rimmed cartridge ejectors have the lift button.  I asked because I went to remove the ejector on my 45/70, a 1988 model, and the ejector wouldn't come out.  Got out my penlight and found that this one has a spring and button installed.  I got this barrel from the original owner and it was unmodified, well until I cut a few inches off of it.

BB

[quickdtoo]

Not that I'm aware of, some Gardner employee probably made it that way in error, the only difference is the hole for the lift button has to be drilled, probably made on Monday or late Friday!! 

Tim

[ironglow]

Thanks Tim..am proceeding ..with caution...Ironglow

[guns-o-fun]

Best to use a real roll pin drift punch of the correct size (one of those with the little ball in the center of the tip).  Otherwise you can really mess up the end of the pin.  Don't ask me how I know....

[quickdtoo]

I wouldn't mess with a roll pin punch for just the one time, but if you're doing a lot of em, they are the best choice, I bought mine from Browell's, I think it's the #3.

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5551/Product/ROLL_PIN_PUNCHES#