Author Topic: oil bore (Read 1200 times)

bckskin2 · « **on:** September 24, 2010, 03:25:33 AM »

After I clean my bore with soap & water should I oil it. I got some TC bore cleaner, but understand soap & water is better as it gets the whole thing. I'm using ffg real black powder. I cleaned it pretty well with the TC stuff, but want to get the area between the nipple and the chamber too.

necchi · « **Reply #1 on:** September 24, 2010, 06:15:30 AM »

T/C bore cleaner IS soap and water,,they just put it in a jug and charge alot for it,,

A couple drops of dish soap in a gallon of tepid water is all ya need.

By all means oil the bore,,use any of several good gun oils..The only trick is to get the oil out before ya shoot again.
I use a bit of brake cleaner and a few patches, then denatured alcohol and a few patches to clean it up.
Ya gotta be carefull,,if you oil heavy and store muzzle up oil will settle in the flash channel and give ya a little trouble if you don't get it out, not a big deal really, just be sure to clean it out,,that's where the brake cleaner comes in handy,,use the spray tube that comes with it an clean it outta there.

Semisane · « **Reply #2 on:** September 24, 2010, 06:18:40 AM »

Yes, a bore need an oil patch after cleaning.

Make sure the bore is completely dry before running a liberally oiled patch up and down a few times. Before loading the next time remove the oil with several dry patches. Or do as I do and use a patch with 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove the oil.

bckskin2 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 24, 2010, 10:19:08 AM »

I've got some break clean I got for my Turk Mauser. Water soap still the best cleaner?

necchi · « **Reply #4 on:** September 24, 2010, 12:34:38 PM »

Quote from: bckskin2 on September 24, 2010, 10:19:08 AM

Water soap still the best cleaner?

Nuthin better!

tacklebury · « **Reply #5 on:** September 24, 2010, 04:46:15 PM »

+1 Dawn Detergent

I do use TC bore lube after cleaning and thorough drying and I run several dry patches to be sure all moisture is out. Then I lube up a patch really good and stroke it a few times. My bore stays nice and bright even after a few weeks off inbetween uses. Avoid petroleum oils as BP + petroleum = tar basically. lol You can also use a light coating of crisco for storage.

Victor3 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 24, 2010, 05:33:17 PM »

Quote from: tacklebury on September 24, 2010, 04:46:15 PM

You can also use a light coating of crisco for storage.

Yeah, but why use it when there are much better preservatives available?

tacklebury · « **Reply #7 on:** September 24, 2010, 05:56:41 PM »

Agreed, I use TC's Bore lube, because I like how it smells & protects. lol It does a nice job. Just sayin, some people don't like to pay for stuff or cannot afford to. Crisco is just something that can be used most folks have on hand. I personally like some of the other pluses from using a commercial bore lubricant.

I know a few and have read many articles on concoctions people make for lubes from tallow & beeswax to crisco or lard and beeswax for bullet lube. Many ways to skin a cat.

bckskin2 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 25, 2010, 05:51:01 AM »

When I run an oiled patch thru it comes out with lite brown streaks. Rust? It sat for a day before I could give it a good cleaning due to a stuck ball. I ran several patches with TC bore cleaner and a couple with oil to try to protect it. Is TC bore lube the same as the TC Bore Butter?

tacklebury · « **Reply #9 on:** September 25, 2010, 10:18:36 AM »

Mine is TC Natural Lube 1000 Plus.

Swampman · « **Reply #10 on:** September 25, 2010, 11:32:24 AM »

I would not use T/C Natural Lube 1000 or Bore Butter. After trying dozens of different things I settled on Break Free CLP.

bckskin2 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 25, 2010, 12:39:30 PM »

I'm still getting tan streak on my patches. By no the oil should be doing something?

flintlock · « **Reply #12 on:** September 25, 2010, 01:54:07 PM »

Ditch the Bore Butter type products and use a good quality gun oil to protect from rust...

bckskin2 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 25, 2010, 02:38:39 PM »

I've been swabing today with Outers & Remoil. If there's rust in there hopefully this will stop it

hillbill · « **Reply #14 on:** September 25, 2010, 03:04:24 PM »

it sure doesnt hurt to go back a day or two later after yu clean your bp firearm and swab it with whatever oil your useing just to chek and make sure yu did your job.i like hoooot water and dish soap for a clean up and hot water to flush and rinse. then dry and oil bore and the rest of the metal parts.i like to leave my bp gun dissssembled over night then re oil and swab before i put it back together.lucas sells a gun oil i really like but ive used everything from bore butter to marvel mystrey oil with good results.hot water opens the pores in the metal, ive been told, and lets yu get everything out.if you get all the bp residue and fouling out all your goin to get is sum flash rust which ive never had hurt anything yet.just make sure your final oiled patch is tight enough that it contacts both the lands and the grooves with the oil you are useing.a loose oiled patch may not be contacting the entire bore.be nice if we could pick daniel boones brain, bet yu never found rust on his gun?

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #15 on:** September 25, 2010, 05:28:00 PM »

What is probably happening is that the bore isn't totally dry before you lube it. I learned years ago that, once the bore is cleaned with hot water and soap, then flushed with hot water, immediately run several patches soaked with isopropyl alcohol, 99% strength. This can be found in the paint section of the hardware store. Don't use rubbing alcohol, it has around 30% water in it, and the idea is to use the alcohol to get the water out. Follow this with dry patches, then lube the bore.

As has been said by others, about any good lube can be used. Some folks swear by petroleum products, others swear at them. I have good success with olive oil (also called sweet oil in years gone by), but I have also been known to use Break Free CLP as the armorers taught us with the Mattel Toy.

Whatever you do, get the bore totally dry with alcohol after cleaning. Even having run hot water through the barrel so it is uncomfortable to hold won't evaporate all of the moisture out, and it will immediately start to rust. Lubing it does not stop that, it only covers the moisture in the bore, so you will still get rusty patches days or weeks later.

-WH-

bckskin2 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 26, 2010, 01:59:26 AM »

I didn't know sweet oil was olive oil! I'm going to try a tighter patch. I need to get out to Gander Mnt. the should have the Break free. I swear Ol Fess Parker never had this much trouble with his rifle.

flintlock · « **Reply #17 on:** September 26, 2010, 02:16:21 AM »

Funny how we all do things differently...With my flintlocks, I plug the touch hole with a round tooth pick...Then I pour several ounces of rubbing alcohol down the barrel, put my thumb over the muzzle and tip it 2-3 times and pour out most of the residue...I then run 3-4 patches down the bore, spray the bore with WD-40 and run a patch or two If I'm going to shoot again in a day or two, I'm done...If not, I run a couple od dry patches down and then lube with a good gun oil...

If the bore is extremely fouled, I might give her two treatements with alcohol...

bckskin2 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 26, 2010, 03:04:00 AM »

Would WD40 stop the rust I'm getting now? Should I just keep Clean every day until I get a clean patch? Once I get it stopped I'll use a whole different protocol next time. Part of the problem was it took me 2 days to clean due to a stuck ball and stuck ball puller

flintlock · « **Reply #19 on:** September 26, 2010, 09:12:17 AM »

The WD in WD 40 stands for water displacement, that's why I use it after cleaning the barrel with rubbing alcohol...

I'd go with a gun oil...At this point, you may have to polish the bore with JB Bore paste to stop the rusting...

tacklebury · « **Reply #20 on:** September 26, 2010, 12:23:54 PM »

Think I will stick with my bore lube. Mine still looks like it came from the factory after several hundred shots and several cleanings. I just use as hot a water as I can with dawn, then rinse with the same, then set it without the breechplug in over a heat register or by the hot oven. The convection usually has the water evaporated inside an hour and then I lube the bore and pack her away.

Nice thing is I can take her out and shoot her right away with no trying to remove the oil.

hillbill · « **Reply #21 on:** September 26, 2010, 12:56:20 PM »

Quote from: tacklebury on September 26, 2010, 12:23:54 PM

Think I will stick with my bore lube. Mine still looks like it came from the factory after several hundred shots and several cleanings. I just use as hot a water as I can with dawn, then rinse with the same, then set it without the breechplug in over a heat register or by the hot oven. The convection usually has the water evaporated inside an hour and then I lube the bore and pack her away. Nice thing is I can take her out and shoot her right away with no trying to remove the oil.

im kinda likeing the TC bore butter too but have only used it for about a year or so.i just used it to make sum lubed felt wads by melting it in the microwave for my ROA from a old felt cowboy hat.ive been useing it as a rust preventitive on all my guns and it seems to work well but my storage area is not all that humid.