Author Topic: Sharpening your chainsaw. (Read 4302 times)

Rex in OTZ · « **on:** October 05, 2010, 07:45:51 AM »

The ole sthil was dull and in need of some sharpening, there's nobody I know of in town that sharpens other folks chains, I decided I'd give it a try free hand.
What a hassle not every linK was the same, some sharpened right up some were a booger + the file loaded up to need frequent carding.
For just one chainsaw and the little I use it I guess I should just mail it out to get sharpened.
Is a cheap electrc sharpener the way to go?
If so which one?

flintlock · « **Reply #1 on:** October 05, 2010, 08:08:09 AM »

I usually use a file for touch up work, if it is really bad...Dremel also makes a sharpening tool for different size chains...I picked mine up at Lowes Hardware...

Old Syko · « **Reply #2 on:** October 05, 2010, 08:47:07 AM »

Rex, I bought one of these a while back and you can't beat it for the money. Wait until they put them on sale for $29.99 as they do quite often like I did. Friend of mine is a logger and uses Oregon sharpeners that cost almost $500 apiece and even he said they were well worth the money for a small timer like myself. I've sharpened probably 30 to 40 chains so far on the original disc with little sign of wear.

For many years myself and my father-in-law cut wood year round and used nothing but a file. Wish we could have had one of these back then.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=chainsaw+sharpener

scootrd · « **Reply #3 on:** October 05, 2010, 08:50:27 AM »

I hand file , takes me about 30 minutes ,

my neighbor uses this electric one and likes it. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product2_200327451_200327451
He bought it cause it had good customer reviews

Old Syko · « **Reply #4 on:** October 05, 2010, 08:55:51 AM »

Quote from: scootrd on October 05, 2010, 08:50:27 AM

I hand file , takes me about 30 minutes ,

my neighbor uses this electric one and likes it. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product2_200327451_200327451
He bought it cause it had good customer reviews

And it's on sale right now for $29.99. I would bet this one and the one from harbor freight are both on the same page for quality.

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2010, 03:32:42 AM »

Quote

I hand file , takes me about 30 minutes ,

Ditto.

It is not like the metal is hard to remove as the real issue seems to be to keep the blades at equal lenghts so the saw wont pull left or right when cutting.

The angle of the top cutter is everything and I have the saw positioned as to be able to push the file straight through without disturbing this angle. I start with a slight upward pressure and then use a follow-up stroke to catch the side cutter with the intent of keeping the face of the side cutter at an exact right angle to the top cutter.

Metal is easily removed as said and for the best results, do all of the blades on one side and then the other to help you with your consistancy. This is hardly the kind of work that you want to do on the tailgate of a pickup and I like a good bench and stool with a good light hanging above. It can still be "trial & error" at first but one can tune in quickly.

hunt-m-up · « **Reply #6 on:** October 06, 2010, 12:35:59 PM »

I don't use my saw that much anymore so I pretty much just clamp the bar in a vise and use a file.

FourBee · « **Reply #7 on:** October 06, 2010, 01:00:53 PM »

Quote from: hunt-m-up on October 06, 2010, 12:35:59 PM

I don't use my saw that much anymore so I pretty much just clamp the bar in a vise and use a file.

I hardly ever use mine anymore either. I've got an old file guide that does a good job. Just clamps onto the bar and with a little elbow grease makes a near professional sharpening.

charles p · « **Reply #8 on:** October 06, 2010, 03:29:51 PM »

Vice, round file to match your chain, and a guide. All you need.
A flat file is good to keep the rakers even.

Good instructions can be found on the Internet.

possume · « **Reply #9 on:** October 06, 2010, 04:31:52 PM »

i just bought one from harbor freight i got tired of doing it by hand not used yet but will soon

Old Syko · « **Reply #10 on:** October 07, 2010, 04:18:32 AM »

One thing is for sure. Using only a file to keep your chain sharp will make you a better sawyer. You learn real quick how to stay out of dirt, rocks, old fencing and other items that will dull your chain. I would much rather be cutting than filing.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #11 on:** October 07, 2010, 04:57:14 PM »

Quote from: Old Syko on October 07, 2010, 04:18:32 AM

I would much rather be cutting than filing.

Me too, and that's why i carry extra chains to the woods, and then do my sharpening in my spare time on the Oregon sharpener in my shop.

DM

FourBee · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2010, 12:20:40 PM »

Drilling Man; when you mentioned 'Oregon', I remember seeing the Oregon professional hand sharpener that looks awhole lot like my 50+ year old one, but with a few modifications. I have no idea who made this one. Dad may have gotten it at SEARS back in the early 60's.

bigbird09 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 12, 2011, 04:49:42 PM »

If you don't do a lot of cutting a cheap guide and a file would be the way to go. We picked up a cheap electric sharpener from harbor frieght and it works pretty good. On my husky a chain usually lasts me a couple trips to the woods, my dads stihl will usually go through a chain sometimes 2 depending on what we are cutting, usually we cut up a couple small trees or a large one, usually that has been blown down by a storm or something that has been down for a while, occastionally we fell a tree if we ahve to. Also we usually cut wood every weekend or every other.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #14 on:** January 13, 2011, 06:34:48 AM »

Quote from: FourBee on October 08, 2010, 12:20:40 PM

Drilling Man; when you mentioned 'Oregon', I remember seeing the Oregon professional hand sharpener that looks awhole lot like my 50+ year old one, but with a few modifications. I have no idea who made this one. Dad may have gotten it at SEARS back in the early 60's.

I use to have one exactly like the one in the pict, i may still have it IF i looked hard enough through my junk? I also have one like it, except it has an electric motor to turn a stone to sharpen with, and a few other styles too.

I just prefer to change chains in the field, and power sharp them when i have time...

DM

FourBee · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2011, 08:33:54 AM »

Quote

Drilling Man ~ I just prefer to change chains in the field, and power sharp them when i have time...

Yep; me too. My energy peaks out pretty quick now-a-days, and I've gotta use it efficently.

Pat/Rick · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2011, 09:03:26 AM »

I can do 95% of my cutting with an 18" bar and I can buy new chains at wally world for what the a shop charges to sharpen them. But I do use the sharpener from harbor freight,I file sharpen until I need it though, it works okay on really beat up chains, the grind wheel in them are 1/8" and larger than what I need. Oregon company makes a "plate" guide for filing down the rakers that works well enough with a flat file.(still trying to see if I can set up my HF sharpener to do this) If you have ever used a freshly sherpened chain and it sems to "skip" instead of cut, the rakers need to be taken down. If you do have to pay to have chains sharpened and use a large saw it can be cheaper to use a "skip tooth" style chain. Yep, dirt and rocks are hard on chain. Flip the bar when you change chains;Add bar oil when you gas up. When I add bar oil I usually dribble some on the bar sprocket as well. Out of bar oil? Used motor oil can substitute for it or even be mixed with it. Wifes Uncle logged and fell for years, don't know if its "right", but thats how he taught me. YMMV

FourBee · « **Reply #17 on:** January 13, 2011, 12:35:28 PM »

Pat/Rick's post has some good advise. Especially on the Rakers. Not knowing that can be very frustrating.
Say Pat, I was on the verge of getting one of those HF Sharpeners, and I let some guys scare me off. I've learned that more often than not it's isn't the equipment that's the problem, but the operator. I did buy one of those Northern Disc Sharpeners. Little difficult setting it up because I wasn't familiar with how they operate. Unless a person was in the sharpening business, I don't know what a more expensive unit could do?
I've never tried honing the Rakers with the electric grinder, but adjusting the 'Stop Stud' would set the depth. As far as reshaping the Rakers after filing, I rarely do that anyway.

torpedoman · « **Reply #18 on:** January 13, 2011, 03:37:36 PM »

Quote from: Old Syko on October 05, 2010, 08:47:07 AM

Rex, I bought one of these a while back and you can't beat it for the money. Wait until they put them on sale for $29.99 as they do quite often like I did. Friend of mine is a logger and uses Oregon sharpeners that cost almost $500 apiece and even he said they were well worth the money for a small timer like myself. I've sharpened probably 30 to 40 chains so far on the original disc with little sign of wear.

For many years myself and my father-in-law cut wood year round and used nothing but a file. Wish we could have had one of these back then.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=chainsaw+sharpener

Have one 3 yrs old it has paid for itself many times over. does a great job.

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2011, 03:05:52 AM »

Quote from: Old Syko on October 07, 2010, 04:18:32 AM

One thing is for sure. Using only a file to keep your chain sharp will make you a better sawyer. You learn real quick how to stay out of dirt, rocks, old fencing and other items that will dull your chain. I would much rather be cutting than filing.

yeppers! That good ole dirt will dull the blade right now. A crowbar or two can be very helpful to turn the downed heavy stuff. There used to be three communitys dating late 1800's to 1900's before developing into a town to the north a few years latter and in some cases I ran into barb wire, staples, and other bury deep into trees when cleaning out old right of ways such as a tractor road.

myronman3 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 14, 2011, 03:19:25 AM »

i must be the odd man out, i dont mind one bit taking a break to sharpen the blades. i try to stay out of the dirt; rarely to i have problems with this. a canthook can be valueable. like everything else, i find that if i stay on top of keeping it sharp, it aint a real big deal.

45-70.gov · « **Reply #21 on:** January 14, 2011, 04:00:25 AM »

i just use a 7/32 round file....if i remember correctly...for the big bow saws
smaller for the toy saws
and a golf ball for a handle

i sharpen my blade EVERY TIME i fill the gas tank....takes 10 minutes
no need to work the saw or myself....
.... unless its throwing BIG chips

if you see a black spot on topp the teeth or the blade gets hot........its dull

i sold enough fire wood 25 years ago
to pay for the birth of my 3 kid$......that$ a lot of wood

turk762 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 14, 2011, 04:16:42 AM »

I dont know if you have a Menards near you, but they now have electric sharpener kind of similar to harbor freight, but seems to be built a little better ($25.00 I think). I bought one and used it a couple of times and it works very well so far. I asked the assistent GM about them before I bought one, he its a new product but know one brought any back and he has heard no complaints. 1.5 hours drive to HF, menards is 5 mins for me. I have a friend and my brother both have the ones from HF and they work well as stated. Friend had his around 5-6 years, bro. 3-4 yrs no problems. I dont think you can go wrong with either.

FourBee · « **Reply #23 on:** January 14, 2011, 04:54:51 AM »

Quote

45-70.gov ~ i just use a 7/32 round file....if i remember correctly...for the big bow saws
smaller for the toy saws and a golf ball for a handle.

Yep; I use the 7/32" for the fullsize 3/8" chains, and a 5/32" on my small ones. Never used a 3/16" for the .325" chain up until now, kinda bumbed the dirt right off the other morning.

p.s. I use a piece of hickory for my handles.

Old Syko · « **Reply #24 on:** January 14, 2011, 06:51:05 AM »

Quote from: Pat/Rick on January 13, 2011, 09:03:26 AM

Out of bar oil? Used motor oil can substitute for it or even be mixed with it. Wifes Uncle logged and fell for years, don't know if its "right", but thats how he taught me. YMMV

Your wife's uncle new his stuff. First saw I ever bought long ago, caused me to buy a jug of bar and chain oil also. The old pro's around me rode me like a circus pony after seeing that and I never used it again. Used motor oil with what STP was left to dribble out of a can overnight was all i ever used after that. Never hurt a bar or had a pump plug up in the process either. My saws are all big enough to have both automatic and manual oilers and I see to it they both get used.

FourBee · « **Reply #25 on:** January 14, 2011, 07:57:09 AM »

1st time I used the Bar&Chain Oils, I liked them. I noticed the oil did not fling off near as easily as it did with the motor oils. Since that time I've always kept a jug just for my chainsaws.

scootrd · « **Reply #26 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:08:32 AM »

Quote from: FourBee on January 14, 2011, 07:57:09 AM

1st time I used the Bar&Chain Oils, I liked them. I noticed the oil did not fling off near as easily as it did with the motor oils. Since that time I've always kept a jug just for my chainsaws.

+1

bigbird09 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 14, 2011, 02:52:13 PM »

we use 10w-30 a lot in the winter here, even in the mild winters of central Illinois bar oil gets thick as molasses and doesn't oil very well

charles p · « **Reply #28 on:** January 17, 2011, 10:23:20 AM »

Don't you hate it when a neighbor asks to borrow your chainsaw. You can tell them not to let the chain touch the dirt, but you know they will do it.

Old Syko · « **Reply #29 on:** January 17, 2011, 10:52:37 AM »

Quote from: charles p on January 17, 2011, 10:23:20 AM

Don't you hate it when a neighbor asks to borrow your chainsaw. You can tell them not to let the chain touch the dirt, but you know they will do it.

Funny thing Charles. Maybe I'm just weird, but there are just a few things I refuse to loan out and my saws are one of them. I'd loan them my truck at the drop of a hat but not my saws.

Even sounds strange to say so.