Author Topic: Uberti 1860 Army  (Read 844 times)

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Offline jd45

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Uberti 1860 Army
« on: December 08, 2003, 02:07:18 AM »
Yesterday I took this new pistol to the range to see what it would do. I got it from Dixie a couple months ago but hadn't had a chance to shoot it until now. I did smooth out the bore with the JB Bore Paste as advised by people on this board. I must say, I got a good one! It groups well altho about 8" high at 25yds, which I was told to expect. It'll probably be dead on at 50. It's dead on as far as left to right,also. I'm very happy with it. The Thunder Ridge nipples helped, to. Thanks for the help! jd45.

Offline 444encore

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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2003, 08:18:46 AM »
Jd, glad to hear of your success. One more thing I might mention to help your new toy endure. If you remove your barrel and cylinder, coat them inside and out with T/C Bore Butter and place in the oven @ 400 degrees for about half an hour or so you can successfully season your metal in much the same way as granny would season an iron skillet. This makes it much less suseptible to corrosion as well as easier cleaning. Just be sure to always use a natural bore cleaner such as T/C #13 and always stear clear of patroleum products and harsh chemicals and this toy might be handed down to you grandchildren looking just as good as today.
 Oh, and my experiance shows 1860's shooting dead on between 75 to 100 yards.
More one shot kills

Offline Full House

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« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2003, 02:06:04 PM »
This is my first posting.  However, I may be new but I am not new to cap and ball.  Have read and there is a treasure trove of information and I would very much like to be a part of it.

Thank you,
Full House
Full House

Offline 444encore

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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2003, 03:41:05 PM »
Welcome aboard, Full House
More one shot kills

Offline Dan Chamberlain

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« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2003, 07:45:47 AM »
[img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3cc35b3127cce845c5fc5113a0000001610[img]

This is an Armi San Marco 1860.  It shoots 2.5 inch 25 yard groups, slightly high (2") and dead on windage.  I antiqued it.  It's a powerful gun and there are a few squirrels who have fallen to it.

Dan C

Offline Gatofeo

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« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2003, 11:09:43 AM »
I use water and Ivory soap to clean my sixguns. I cut a few slices from an old bar of Ivory soap into a small spray bottle, add water to nearly full and voila'! Black powder cleaner.
Others also do the same but add alcohol or vinegar. Never tried that. This seems to work well so not had the occasion to change it.
Once a year or more often, depending on how many shots I've put through the revolver, I totally disassemble it and toss it into a plastic tub full of boiling water with chips from old Ivory soap bars.
With brushes that get in corners, and some cloth swabs, this really cleans the ol' beast.
Water immersion really loosens fouling and, just as importantly, carries the fouling away from the metal surface.
A quick drying in a baking pan in the oven, set at 150 F with the door open to allow moisture to escape, ensures all parts are dry.
Wunder Cleaners are fine in the field, I guess, but for a thorough cleaning I've never found anything better than hot water and a bar of Ivory soap.
Why Ivory? It floats! This makes it easier to find. Other bars sink and you have to grope for them.
I place cleaned parts into a small, plastic collander in my plastic washtub, leaving the cleaned parts immersed. Removed from the water, they'll begin to rust within minutes but left underwater it takes longer.
When all parts are clean, I rinse the same parts in the colander under a stream of hot water from the tap. Then, pat dry with paper towels, run a couple of dry patches through the bore and chambers, and place in the oven as outlined above.
I leave it in the oven 45 minutes or so. And don't forget to position the parts so moisture can easily escape. I place my Colt Navy frame upside down, so moisture gets out of the screw holes quickly.
Once dry, I liberally coat the warm metal with mutton tallow (regular Crisco is also good, don't use the butter-flavored stuff) and allow the parts to cool with a good coating of tallow or Crisco.
Don't forget to run a patch soaked in tallow down the bore and into the chambers too.
During reassembly, I put a little extra lubricant into the action. Don't put too much or it will draw dirt and crud or stiffen in cold weather. I don't use petroleum oils in my revolver.
Then, I reassemble the revolver and wipe off the excess lubricant.
Yep, it sounds like a lot of work but as I say I don't give my revolvers the hot bath treatment every time I return from shooting. Here in the Utah desert the humidity is low and I can get by for months without cleaning, and never see a speck of rust from black powder fouling.
However, if I lived in Seattle or New Orleans where humidity is high, then I'd have to clean more often.
"A hit with a .22 is better than a miss with a .44."

Offline HWooldridge

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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2003, 06:02:09 PM »
I use vinegar since it seems to cut the fouling quickly.  I do not immerse - just pass soaked patches thru and follow with a dry one then one soaked in WD40.  No rust experienced to date.

Offline Flint

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« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2003, 09:05:36 AM »
HWooldridge, be aware that vinegar will remove blue quite readily, which, had you immersed, you would have found quickly.  Keep the water proportion high in a vinegar mix.
Flint, SASS 976, NRA Life

Offline HWooldridge

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« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2003, 02:15:26 PM »
Thanks for the tip...H