The Marlin wood..

[no guns here]

The more I look at my Marlins, the more I can't stand all the extra wood.  Are there any secrets to making the forearm slimmer?  I would assume I could just remove it and use a belt sander to take it down.  As long as I don't mess up the parts that attach to the gun and as long as I keep the thickness fairly equal all the way around I should be okay right?  Or is there more to it?  I would also like to get past the silly looking "checkering".  After that I would do the stock.  I'd probably just refinish with an rubbed oil finish of some kind.

Thanks,
NGH

[Rangr44]

It sounds like a plan, to me - Just remember to take/post plenty of "B4", "during" & "after" pix.  

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[PawPaw]

Those forends are kind of bulky, aren't they?  Nothing at all wrong with slimming them down, just be sure not to change any critical dimensions, like where the bands attach and where it meets the receiver.  Let us know how it turns out.

[no guns here]

I have three Marlins and I'm trying to decide which to "do" first.  In other words, which one do I want to risk trashing the wood.  I've done "some" wood working in the past but not a lot.  I've never done stock of any kind.  I think I'll be okay.  I'm also looking for some wood for my T/C G2 to cut down into a youth stock for my son.  I think I will work on the G2 first and then on my 1895 SS.  If that turns out well, I'll do the 1894 .357.  If all turn out well, I may do the 1895 CB.  I'd like to slim the forearm and get rid of all the checkering.  I'll get started as soon as I can find some used G2 furniture.


NGH

[bcraig]

Get some sandpaper in various grades, a wood rasp, a bottle of true oil, finish remover.and stain if you have a hardwood stock. take it slow and if you have any eye at all for symmetry you shouldn,t have any problem at all. You dont have to automatically think you are going to trash a stock that you do, just take your time and have fun learning.Plus there should be plenty of info on the net concerning stock refinishing.For the first one I would not recomend using any power tool as it might be too easy to let it get away from you and remove too much wood or in the wrong place.

[PawPaw]

Re-reading the forum, and I have one tip you might use. 

When you get down to the final sanding on the wood, you might want to use steel wool.  Any good hardware store has it in various grades and the finer the better.  One trick I've used on stocks is after the final sanding, steam the wood.  You can either use an old-fashioned kettle or you can dip a cloth in hot water and place it on the stock.  What you want is a little hot moisture on the wood to raise the splinters.  When the little tiny splinters get wet, they'll warp as they dry and stand up away from the stock.  They look like whiskers.   Sand off those whiskers with the steel wool, then repeat the process two or three times.

I have every confidence you'll do a great job.  Go slow and bring us pictures when you're finished. 

[melsdad]

Just another thought. I use rubbing alcohol to "whisker" the wood for final finishing. It does the same as the hot water, but dries much faster. At this stage you should be using 0000 steel wool for a glass smooth finish. repeat the process till no more whiskers stand up.

[pmeisel]

I like to use Scotch Brite pads from the auto parts store instead of steel wool.  Comes in several grades.  Coarsest works fast, finest hardly removes anything at all.