Target grade lever?

[Canuck Bob]

The thread below about lever and bolt accuracy got me thinking, always a foolish thing.

How would a guy build a target quality lever rifle.  Not a bench rest kinda thing but something capable of MOA groups of 10 fired in a relatively short period like a shooting match?

This comes out of a desire for one real tack driver in my life.  I researched bolt guns but it seems a shame to know that my Marlin 444 is one of the best big game rifles ever made and then abandon my first love, levers, for a bolt gun.

[Rangr44]

[How would a guy build a target quality lever rifle]

One by one, stack hundred-dollar bills in your wallet, until you have enough to buy a BLR.     

.

[Mikey]

Bob - your 444 is probably a lot more capable of target grade accuracy than you might think and you need not abandon your preference to a bolt rifle for that level of accuracy, but there are a few things you need to know about the 444.  First is that the 444 is really a handloader's dream; Marlin bores run a bit oversize and your bore may run as large as .432.  Beartooth Bullets has developed extensive research into heavy bullet loads and accuracy loadings for the 444. 

Second is that your bore may well carry Marlin's Microgroove rifling, or even Ballard style rifling, but the bore should be fire lapped or bore lapped (same same) to enhance the accuracy of the rifle with cast bullets (jacketed slugs also shoot much more accurately after lapping).  I would suggest you drop on down to Veral Smith's Forum to read his writings on bore lapping or fire lapping, and then go to Beartooth Bullets (www and .com) to see the accuracy results of their testings with their bullets and Marlin rifles.  I have used this process on a couple of microgroove barrels in 444 and saw a immediate reduction in group sizes.  Both my microgroove barrelled Winchester Big Bores shoot inside one inch (from the bench) at 100 yds with hard hitting heavy for the bore Beartooth loads.  

Third - your trigger may or may not need work - if you like it, leave it as it is but if it needs work you can improve your groups with a better trigger.  

Fourth - sights:  I am going to assume you intend to use open sights and if so I recommend a rear adjustable peep with a blade front sight.  Lyman tang sights are available for the Marlins as are ghost ring sights although I don't know if the later are adjustable.

Actually I think that once you read through what Veral Smith and the Beartooth guys have to say about bore lapping and loading the 444, you will probably decide on a couple of Beartooth loads you want to try and then the rest will sort of fall into place - you will find a accurate load that will group incredibly from your rifle, decide if you need any trigger work, get a new set of sights and you won't have to abandon your lever for some bolt rifle that may not even shoot better at all.  I wouldn't give up any of my levers for a 100 yd rifle - they are already better than that....

[Canuck Bob]

I have to agree with you both.  This thread is more about fun daydreaming than an actual build by the way. 

My 444 is deadly accurate with 265 Hornadys.  However it is just not something that I would shoot all afternoon due to advancing arthritis. 

I've been weighing a build with a left bolt, a single shot, and a lever.  I'm a lever man so that solved that question.  Next all this talk about Remington triggers got me thinking.  To me there is nothing safer than an external hammer.  I did see a guy fire one once when his thumb slipped but carrying a gun coocked and locked is for the battlefield more than the pasture.  For convenience of unloading a box mag.  That screams BLR.

[Frank46]

Sometime back I posted a similar question on the Assra.com website. Did get some very interesting comments. Having said that the gist of the post went like this.
1. marlin 336 with heavy bbl set up as a single shot,  no mag tube or any junk under the bbl. Max bbl length 20"
2. Benchrest or target forend
3. Caliber 30-30
4. either reuse origional buttstock or one with a slightly higher comb for use with a scope.
5. mount either a 24x tasco (japanese make)
6. shoot it.
Reason for the 336 is that I have one in used but not abused shape. One of the concerns from some assra members was/is that their rules don't allow levers to be set up as single shots. My intention was and still is to just shoot the darn thing at our local range with cast bullets only. I do have a 308 sendero bbl new takeoff but not sure after cutting off about 2" from the back would leave enough metal to thread for the receiver. Or a 1.25" 24" long 308 bbl new never been fired. That one should have plenty of meat for threading. Actually that might be the way to go. But would have to mill off the flange on the receiver where the forend goes. Would look strange as heck but would probably be the only 336 set up as a single shot. That's my story on that. Sometimes when you don't have a lot of $$$ and a lot of spare time one tends to say "what if". Frank

[mannyrock]

  Umm, errr, . . . umm, I have seen many Marlin lever action 1894s, in .357 magnum, new out of the box, that will shoot one inch groups all day long from the bench, with factory ammo, so long as you have a very good 4 power scope (think Leupold), and steel mounts.  The most accurate factory ammo was the cheap PMC soft points, 154 grain.  But, I don't think PMC makes it any more.

   I am not exaggerating with this reply.  I think many people who are experienced with the 1894 Marlin will tell you exactly the same thing. 

  And, if you want to spend a little more money, and hand load, I have personally seen a friend with an 1894 Cowboy model, with the 24 inch octagonal barrel, plus well tuned .357 handloads, consistently shoot a 1/4 inch group at 50 yards from the bench. 

   So, you really don't have to build a custom rifle for what you are looking for.  Most used 1894 Marlins, in VG+  condition, can be had for about $400.

   I don't know how the .44 mags would shoot.

Best,
Mannyrock
Mannyrock

[Freezer]

The thread below about lever and bolt accuracy got me thinking, always a foolish thing.

How would a guy build a target quality lever rifle.  Not a bench rest kinda thing but something capable of MOA groups of 10 fired in a relatively short period like a shooting match?

10 rounds fired fast whith target accuracy?  WhY? Fast compittion shots are short range. Most sporting arms are good for three to five rounds before the barrel heats up and the rounds drift.  A heavy barrel helps but....

That said I would consider an octagon barrel for what your asking. It would still look right and give you what you want. Mickey is spot on with the rest of what he said.  Most lever guns have lousy triggers but can be improved.

OOOPs I screwed up the quote thing

[StrawHat]

Canuck Bob,

Just saw this thread and will offer this, even though a bit late.  In the late 1890s (96 or 97) a fellow won the 1000yard Wimbeldon Match using a Winchester 1895.  I don't believe it has been done since that time but it was done once.  If you want to try to build a target lever, you might want to start with one of those.  I would imagine that 1895 was chambered for the 30 Gov't cartridge.

[quietman]

I'd highly recommend the book "Accurrizing the Factory Rifle", Half of it deals with leverguns and single shots with 2 piece stocks. You'd be amazed at what you can do to at home with only a few tools to increase the accuracy of a lever gun. (You'll find RTV is your friend)

Most issues with stringing are due to the fit of the forend and the end cap and bands. Can also be due to barrel to receiver fit.

Flyers can be reduced or eliminated with bedding the stock and even installing a through bolt.

All of the solutions for these and many more ideas are covered in the book.