Resealing laminated stock

[Dinny]

First of all, I have read the FAQs. I would like to put a new sealing finish on a set of blonde laminated stocks. I have read several times that polyurethane is not the best sealer for these stocks. How do I take the old clear-coat off and which one should I refinish it with? I don't want to change the color.

Thanks, Dinny

[cwlongshot]

Dinny,
 I have refinished my share of wood work and rifle stocks. (Excuse me, Mike Waddell just stopped by on the screen... ) OK where was I , OH yea,  Everything I can think of will darken the wood. You can limit it some with a sealer before final coat. Also New Water based top coats will lighten the least, but don't really have the tough durability of the epoxy coatings.

For the ultimate in durability, I would suggest an epoxy coating. for looks I like careful sanding until beyond smooth and about a dozen coats of linseed or Lin speed oil. Tongue oil is another I have been using lately and I very much like the finish. But its more of an oil than a gloss.

Is yours damaged or are you just looking for a nicer finish?

CW

[Dinny]

Is yours damaged or are you just looking for a nicer finish?
CW

CW,
  Both, I accidently removed some of the clear-coat when I ripped a piece of adhesive backed velcro off the side of the stock. Also, the finish is becoming dull. I want to dress it up nice before I get it Duracoated. This rifle combo is my switch-barrel 45-70 and 30-30. Those two deserve to be coated and dressed with something nice, they're keepers!!

Thanks, Dinny

[oldsoldja]

Ive always either coated with an epoxy or oiled the wood. Ive never tried doing both, but i will try that next.

When sanding a coating off, i always start with 180 grit and am carefull till i start seeing wood instead of epoxy. Then go to 240 grit , then 320, then 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000. Sand methodically and evenly, not helter skelter. Then i oil with china oil or tung diluted for the first few coats with turpentine or mineral spirits. Wipe off the excess and let it dry for 4 hours inbetween sanding and coating. I sand the oiled wood with 1000 and do it while the oil is wet. Do this over and over again untill the wood can take no more oil, and it will be as nice as a piano. Then everytime you oil your metal of your gun, do the same for the wood. The Blasers wood is also baked in between coats, thats at least what I heard.
I think the blonde should be coated tho, with water or epoxy. Coatings tend to go milky when they arent thick enough. Id go three coats, They just decompose otherwise.

It gives you thick wrists. have fun.

[kmbrown]

I did the stock on a 25-06 Ultra several years ago with Tru Oil. I didn't strip the old finish, just put several coats and used 0000 wool between them.  Turned out real nice and didn't change the color. It has a pretty shiny finish when it dries but can be changed to a satin with a little steel  wool.

[Dinny]

I did the stock on a 25-06 Ultra several years ago with Tru Oil. I didn't strip the old finish, just put several coats and used 0000 wool between them.  Turned out real nice and didn't change the color. It has a pretty shiny finish when it dries but can be changed to a satin with a little steel  wool.

That's exactly what I was looking for!! How did you prep the surface before the first coat? Light sanding with a fine abrasive like steel wool? Clean it with alcohol, water, ??  I really like how TruOil finishes!

Thanks, Dinny

[kmbrown]

I don't think I did anything special to it other than wiping it down with some alcohol or mineral spirits. I wiped on the Tru Oil with a cotton rag and used 0000 steel wool between coats. Think I put 3 or 4 coats on total. I've used Tru Oil on maybe a 1/2 dozen stocks with great results.  The only one I ever stripped first was a Handi pallet wood stock and that was because I didn't like the color. I've also never had any compatability issues either.  Kevin

[necchi]

+1 to the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, it's too easy. I've refurbed several Muzzle loaders. Your original finish has already sealed the wood. Light sanding 220 or 320 if you want, it seldom needs finer than that,
 A clean damp cloth too remove dust, be sure it's dried, then just follow directions and apply one drop and spread it out with a finger tip.
 I find it easiest to get a dowel or rod (bent coat hanger ?) into the bolt hole to handle the stock during application, That way you have a clean hand and just one finger wet with the BTO. Drill a hole in the dowel so you can hang the stock someplace to dry between coats. Several light coats,(6-8) turns out nice, light sanding with 400 between or steel wool,( I don't like steel wool because it leaves so much metal dust/shavings).
 I like to take a small bit of aluminum foil for a cup, or a dixie cup and put just a bit of BTO in that for application, just punch a small nail hole in the foil top of the jug of BTO or it'll get crusty.
 Coats dry in as little as 4 hours, You can put a coat on morning and evening and be finished in just a few days.

Some one on another thread like this complained the BTO doesn't handle solvent well,,  I didn't say anything, but what is this guy putting solvent on his wood for??

Neat thing about BTO is if you get a ding or a scratch, you can touch it up. And if you don't like it, just sand it off, no harm-no foul.

[Spanky]

I use BLO when I do a refinish. I've used Tru Oil in the past but it reminds me of a gymnasium floor instead of a nice gun stock. To each his own.



Spanky

[Dinny]

Thanks everyone for the advice about the BTO. I think I'll try it this week and will post pics afterwards.

Thanks, Dinny

[bikerbeans]

Dinny,

You are welcome to practice on my Blond Lam. Set if you like.   Kidding of course, but I would like to see picks when you are done as I have a couple of Lam. Sets I would like to improve after deer season ends.

BB