Author Topic: round stuck int he chamber, dowel rod in splinters and looking for advice (Read 4873 times)

quickdtoo · « **Reply #30 on:** November 25, 2010, 09:52:56 AM »

Chigger hasn't been online since Tuesday, so he may be out of town for the holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving to ya all!!

Tim

P.A. Myers · « **Reply #31 on:** November 25, 2010, 03:58:24 PM »

Maybe outback in a dark shed is a man next to a benchvise, impaled on a nine inch wooden dowel. His chair at Thanksgiving dinner remains empty. Calls go unanswered.
Nahh

luckydawg13 · « **Reply #32 on:** November 25, 2010, 11:34:52 PM »

Blackhawker · « **Reply #33 on:** November 26, 2010, 03:58:51 AM »

In light of the post by Kieth, especially this part; They were trying to drive the cartridge out and for some reason it went off killing one person. I'd probably be apt to take this barrel to a QUALIFIED gunsmith and not just ANY gunsmith. We've all knocked a stuck round from a chamber at one time or another but this situation seems a little more serious or complicated.

As for shipping and trying to ship to a qualified smith or to T/C, wouldn't this be the same as shipping a LOADED firearm? Maybe because it's just a barrel, at least it would be the equivenlent of shipping live ammunition. It would probalby be best to find a QUALIFIED gunsmith that is close enough to drive to and hand the barrel to him or her in person.
....that's just my thoughts anyway.

Knucklehead · « **Reply #34 on:** November 26, 2010, 07:18:55 AM »

I Just read in a Brownells newsletter where you can put Hoppes#9 down the barrel, and it will erode the brass (but not th barrel) to the point where the round will be undersize and fall out... just read it today, hope it helps. Takes a few days...

luckydawg13 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 26, 2010, 07:28:06 AM »

Quote from: Knucklehead on November 26, 2010, 07:18:55 AM

I Just read in a Brownells newsletter where you can put Hoppes#9 down the barrel, and it will erode the brass (but not th barrel) to the point where the round will be undersize and fall out... just read it today, hope it helps. Takes a few days...

ok this i got to try i will do my own test i think i have a 223 and hope on hand not in a barrel i will use a glass

DEACONLLB · « **Reply #36 on:** November 26, 2010, 09:34:16 AM »

I have given this a lot of thought and I am with Blackhawker on this, If he tries to remove primer and the round fires there goes the barrel because of the dowel rod. also I would think that you could not ship as this would be a live round in a barrel so his best choice is to take it to a good gun smith who has experiance with this sort of thing because someone is going to get hurt. If the primer could be removed in a safe way and I do mean very safe way then he could use a dent puller and slide hammer, The puller has a metel screw on the end and that would screw into the flash hole and then slide the hammer back and case should come out. We use these to pull dents in auto bodys where you cannot get in behind dent to knock out, but again better to be safe and not get hurt and let someone with experiance to do the job. If the dowel rod could be removed and a brass rod inserted in barrel to rapp on bullet you would just knock bullet back into case and powder and I would think you would have an even greater problem. What is the barrel worth compaired to an eye, arm or even your life or someone else? something to think on.

Deaconllb

chigger · « **Reply #37 on:** November 28, 2010, 08:36:09 AM »

nothing yet, just got back from Thankgiving vacation. The barrel has been in the freezer for five days now. Wife is currently asleep. Unable to go pounding on the hammer in the garage.
I hopefully will have an answer tonight.

Thanks for all the responses.

Chig

BBF · « **Reply #38 on:** November 30, 2010, 08:27:55 AM »

My second thought on this is why not drill a very small hole in the base of the case next to the primer? Once done, perhaps most of the powder can be removed and the hole tapped. Slow and with breaks to make sure nothing heats up.

Re Freezer: The rifle steel will contract and so will the case. What is the point unless you can warm up the barrel rapidly before the case expands.

Re my first idea: You don't leave the liquid(oil) in long enough for the dowel to absorb enough to cause swelling.

jy951 · « **Reply #39 on:** November 30, 2010, 07:56:52 PM »

Be careful with this so it's not on 1000 ways to die.

Sensai · « **Reply #40 on:** December 01, 2010, 02:39:48 AM »

I've gotten a stuck live round out by applying a little Kroil around the head of the round and compressed air to the muzzle. I didn't have wood splinters in the barrel, and it was a rifle barrel; but if the freezer doesn't work this method doesn't take but a few minutes to try. Just be sure that the round has a safe place to go. It took about 50psi of air pressure, and the round came out pretty fast. I was holding it over a bucket of water.

Steelbanger · « **Reply #41 on:** December 01, 2010, 03:10:39 AM »

In reply to the bench rest death from some years back. The shooter involved was trying to dislodge a stuck round by pounding on a rod into the stuck round in the barrel. The rifle was set on a table and the bolt was removed. His wife was standing behind the rifle when the cartridge detonated, firing the cartridge case into her abdomen which killed her. Terrible accident.

I wouldn't try drilling near a live primer no matter how slow the bit is turning. Nor would I ship it in the mail in its present condition.

I'm thinking that removing the extractor might expose enough of the rim to allow a small punch to drive the case out with light taps.

luckydawg13 · « **Reply #42 on:** December 02, 2010, 05:13:23 AM »

Quote from: luckydawg13 on November 26, 2010, 07:28:06 AM

Quote from: Knucklehead on November 26, 2010, 07:18:55 AM
I Just read in a Brownells newsletter where you can put Hoppes#9 down the barrel, and it will erode the brass (but not th barrel) to the point where the round will be undersize and fall out... just read it today, hope it helps. Takes a few days...

ok this i got to try i will do my own test i think i have a 223 and hope on hand not in a barrel i will use a glass

i think that this is BS i did my test i had a 223 in hoppes #9 what 5 day no it dont work
0.3410 in 0.3410 out bull shoot

P.A. Myers · « **Reply #43 on:** December 02, 2010, 08:39:09 AM »

Dear Lucky, Please do your replies in Engish, so that us greybeards may comprehend it. Good luck with your extraction.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Junior1942 · « **Reply #44 on:** December 02, 2010, 10:26:35 AM »

Chigger, oh, Chigger, whereforth art thou Chigger!

jy951 · « **Reply #45 on:** December 02, 2010, 12:29:04 PM »

I would suggest if you try the drilling the primer, you do it on some live primers without any powder or bullet. Test at least five or enough to make sure you're confident you don't detonate one. If one detonates, don't tray that method.

hunt4570 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 02, 2010, 12:51:26 PM »

Drill the PRIMER?? In a live round?? You got to be kidding!!

Dezynco · « **Reply #47 on:** December 02, 2010, 01:26:08 PM »

Quote

Drill the PRIMER?? In a live round?? You got to be kidding!!

Yes, maybe, slowly, but only with a hand twist drill so as to not generate any heat. Once a hole is gently drilled in the primer, soak it with water or oil through the hole. Then remove the primer and he's home free!

I had a 7mm TCU stuck once that I removed exactly like this. Once a small hole is drilled (with the hand twist drill), I used a screw to catch the primer and yanked it out (after I soaked the primer).

It usually takes a blow or heat to detonate a primer. I would do it, but only with heavy gloves and eye protection. However, he has an unusual circumstance with the dowel stuck in the barrel that makes things a little dicey. The live round that I removed didn't have an obstruction, so the chance of things getting ugly were less. Granted I wouldn't want to detonate a primer with or without the dowel stuck in the barrel.

thompsonjoedeals · « **Reply #48 on:** December 02, 2010, 02:01:44 PM »

Similar situation awhile back...15 minutes and done.

Hand drilled into the case along side the primer ( barrel locked in a vise)

Used a needle oiler and shot water into the powder

Drilled the primmer

dropped in an Easyout with visegrips

Tapped it right out

I make oil · « **Reply #49 on:** December 03, 2010, 02:39:00 AM »

I like Joe's idea. That is what I would do.

Blackhawker · « **Reply #50 on:** December 03, 2010, 04:06:24 AM »

I wouldn't give any advice like this guys. Let's say he does try drilling the primer and kills himself of his kid or wife. Then who's to blame? You, the one who gave the advice, Greybeard, anyone else??

My advice still sticks. Take it to a professional. If he knew what he was doing (like a pro), it would be done already. I wouldn't mess with it myself.

thompsonjoedeals · « **Reply #51 on:** December 03, 2010, 04:09:10 AM »

I agree with you....I give no advise, just told what I have done

Quote from: Blackhawker on December 03, 2010, 04:06:24 AM

I wouldn't give any advice like this guys. Let's say he does try drilling the primer and kills himself of his kid or wife. Then who's to blame? You, the one who gave the advice, Greybeard, anyone else??

My advice still sticks. Take it to a professional. If he knew what he was doing (like a pro), it would be done already. I wouldn't mess with it myself.

Richard P · « **Reply #52 on:** December 03, 2010, 06:47:17 AM »

If he gets advice he can either ignore it or use it. It's his decision alone.
And, yes, you can successfully and carefully drill through a primer cup. Perhaps a pair of gloves and a full face shield would be helpful. A sharp bit turned slowly wouldnt generate enough heat to detonate the compound. I still wouldnt want the casing facing me. It would be the part ejected were the worst to happen.
Kroil is pretty good about penetrating around a stuck case.

chigger · « **Reply #53 on:** December 03, 2010, 05:04:20 PM »

Find a brass rod. not here in Boise. I've stopped into HomeDepot and Lowes on the way to work. No go, started calling around. No go. Steel rods everywhere.
I have the dowel rod out, I got to looking at the stuck case remover and a grabber screw. Slow and steady. t worked wonderful. Not much left for strenght of the top 3 inches.
I brought the compresser home from the shop, going to blast some air down the tube like a few back commented on.
As for taking it to a gunsmith. Na, I'd rather do it myself. Giving this one lots of thought and study. Apparently many others have given it much thought as well.
Lets see what a bit of oil and air does tomorrow.
I would rather not be on the dead end of a barrel. Thats why the slower process.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #54 on:** December 03, 2010, 05:18:59 PM »

I'd opt for scatterbrain's and Junior1942's method now, hydraulics with oil.

Tim

chigger · « **Reply #55 on:** December 04, 2010, 07:12:50 AM »

10-30 oil, a old rag and a air compressor did the trick.
With the dowel rod out a couple days ago, I poured maybe enough oil for half the barrel. Waited for the compressor to finish its cycle. Placed a air nozzel tip against the barrel. Wrapped the old rag around the top. Squeezed the air. Out pops the live cartridge. Now I have a compresses loaded round with a mangled 50 grains spsx round at the top. The wooden dowel rod opened up the tip of the bullet, didn't split the copper. I guess it could almost make a mean hollow point if we cleaned it up a little.
Thanks for the comments and advice. I have been thinking about he drilling option quite a bit. I am going to donate some brass and primers (minus the powder and bullet) into a trial period. What does it take to set off a primer with a drill? Drilling near the primer, through the primer. Top or side?
I know the primer takes a sharp direct pressure to make ignition. But what if?

As for the neighbor and his reloads. Well we had a conversation about this the other day. His reloads his guns, my reloads my guns. Easy enough.
Time to go shovel the driveway.

Lon371 · « **Reply #56 on:** December 04, 2010, 07:26:01 AM »

Glad everything turned out good for ya.

I hate hearing of guys having a misfortune and end up risking life and limb to solve the issue.

Lonny

BBF · « **Reply #57 on:** December 04, 2010, 08:30:59 AM »

Re drilling a test case:
I opt for close by the primer not the primer itself.
BTW if I ever needed to drill a live round I would opt for a 90 deg angle drill or attachment

quickdtoo · « **Reply #58 on:** December 04, 2010, 08:45:20 AM »

Glad ya got it out safely chigger, good work.

Tim

Junior1942 · « **Reply #59 on:** December 04, 2010, 09:39:21 AM »

Quote from: scatterbrain on December 04, 2010, 08:30:59 AM

Re drilling a test case:
I opt for close by the primer not the primer itself....

I opt for never, ever, ever drill a live primer even in an unloaded case. Did I say I would never, ever, ever drill a live primer? I have two halfway good eyes, and I would really, really, really like to keep them both.