I started with the Dembart and they work extremely well. They use replaceable heads so that as they dull obne simply replaces the cutter. The Dembart are file type cutters meaning they look like small files and produce smoth, fine work. They wear out and are not resharpenable. There are Carbide versions that last nearlu forever but are quite expensive. Gunline makes a similar tool set and the cutter will interchange with Dembart. The Gunline tools use a single line cutter that is smooth with thin cuts across it that produce the cutting edges, They are resharpenable and what I much prefer for deepening old, dirty checkering. As the cutter clogs up simply brush out the crud and go some more. If dull a fine ceramic stone will polish on a new edge for a long time, though they do where out. The Fullview handles work the best for me as the angle of attach is adjustable and installation easier than driving a pin. You will need a set of spacers, left and right and for these I reccomend the Dembart. to deepen a single line cutter is used and I prefer the Gunline by a large margin.. To straighten those errant lines(of course I never need this thing) buy or make a long cutter called a jointer, at least a inch in length to work past the bobbles..and knots. For all push cutters the full view handles and lastly you will need the Dembart pull cutter called an 'S-1' tool. It is short around 3/16 in and mounted on a shaft with a 90 degree angle. It is made to cut on a pull stroke and is used to finish each line up against the edge line with out nicking the outside of the pattern. I strongly concur with the Kenneday book and reccomend reading it a couple of times before jumping in. The Veiner is a small 70 or 90 degree angle carving type chisel used to cut grooves in very tight areas such as under the leaves of a fleur-de-lise(sp.). I prefer the 70 degree for finer line counts. I also use a Magnivisor to help the old peepers and a checkering cradle is truly a fine thing to have. I did some work without one but found true love the first time I used one. I made my own and they are fairly simple to construct. A good indirect light source is a great help and I usually like more light than some others might. So-left and right spacers, single line tool to deepen. An S1 tool to finish the ends and a jointer to push those bending lines around a bit.The viener and cradle are good ideas along with the Magnivisor. To put lines on the stock a section of 1/2 inch tape measure tape (steel) is fine although a flexible machinists ruler would also work. They allow one to run a straight line around a forearm without the normal bending.. The 1/4 inch tapes are too thin and the 3/4 inch too stiff.. The only thing else I can think of is an offset blade in a small exacto knife. The blade I've some to love is about 1/4 in width and is set to one side of the part that fits into the handle. I prefer the small handle with a turned wooden sleeve as it allow my hand better control. This is used to connect layout marks and makes the layout dots.. It cuts edges of ribbons and carved borders and is used to mark along the steel straight edges. I started with 18 lines per inch but found that 20 lines per inch is a good compromise of grip enhancement, durability, and good looks.
