1.75 drill bit

[rampa room artillery]

 ok, I give up i have looked online for 1 hour and cant find one.  anyoneknow where i can get a 1.75 drill bit for metal.   
      Golf ball!!!!!

[GGaskill]

How deep is the hole?  How much do you have to spend?  What machine are you planning to use it in?

[Double D]

Drill  to 1 1/2", bore to 1.72", polish to 1.723".  You don't want to drill to bore size , drills leave a rough holes.

Here is a  1 3/4" drill bit

[rampa room artillery]

well price depends on quality, if its worth it then i will pay it.  i plan on using it in a lathe.to turn out golf ball coehorn mortars.  fast and easy.
rick bryan
 n-ssa

[Cat Whisperer]

If you get a spade drill, the bits are cheaper and you can make the shaft.  OR you can watch ebay and find deals.

[Double D]

A  drilled hole has to be cleaned up after drilling. 1.75 is oversized for golf balls and will be even bigger whenthe hole is cleaned up.

[rampa room artillery]

a friend on mine makes golf ball mortars for 50 bucks and he doesnt have time to make any right now so i need to turn out 20 before spring. wemy unit is hosting a golf ball mortar event at our shoot in the spring. and last time they were brought out they sold like hot cakes


 rick bryan

[rampa room artillery]

we arenot talking about a high quality peice. we are talking about something that will be shot in a compitition andfirst place is a case of beer.
 
 

[Double D]

Is your name going to be on it? 

[rampa room artillery]

well i am going to wait and get a nice drill bit looks like theyare around 200 dollars. but it wil be worth it.  .
  got to keep cost down.   and that also keeps everybody remimbering its just for fun.   hell one guy last time i was at one had one he made out of a peice of oak with little metal bands like that one in the civil war. 
  and I keep the quote. you get what you pay for and for 50 buck for a golf ball mortar on a bed and a set of balls?  yea i will put my name on that. I will make a nice one or two but they wont sell.  i wil end up taking them back home.  different type of crowd at n-ssa shoots.  I know people that has bought them jsut to shoot over their house during parties. 

[Double D]

If you click on the link I left above you will find a drill bit for $46.

[rampa room artillery]

yea, I saw that ,   thanks, I just figured that a drill with a moris taper would last longer, but i need to get my lathe here before i know more about what parts to buy for it.

  everyone here has been alot of help over the years, and I hope many more years in the future.

 rick bryan

[Double D]

1 3/4" Morse Taper

[GGaskill]

You can drill it to 1 5/8" and then bore to 1.723" without too much difficulty or time lost.  Boring should give you an adequate interior surface.  

A large drill like that is probably going to be too large for your tail stock without a morse taper to morse taper adaptor (see the bottom right of the page.)  My guess is your lathe will have a #3 taper in the tail stock and a 1 5/8" drill will be a #4 or #5.  Wholesale Tool doesn't show a 1 5/8" but they do show two 1 41/64" drills which would be OK.

[Double D]

1 5/8" MT

I agree with George, drill 1 5/8" and bore.  Set up for  production.  Have the drill bit on the tail stock and boring bar on tool holder.   Drill the hole, then bore hole with out ever taking the work out of the chuck.   You will be surprised how quick you can do it.  And you will end up with a much nicer product. 

You said you wanted to make cannons to sell.  These will be your first sample-first impression and if you expect to sell any in future you are better of to do it right and not take shortcuts.

[GGaskill]

Have you bought any of this type of tooling from Wholesale Tool?  Is it at least adequate?

[armorer77]

I bought a 1.75" reamer from ENCO for $150.00 . Had the local tool shop grind it to 1.730" for $20.00

[Victor3]

 If you have the time 'till one comes up, you'll likely be able to find one on ebay for cheap. I recently got a brand new 2" - 4 1/2 tap (~$250 was the cheapest I could find one retail) for ~$50.

[grymster]

I agree with drilling undersize, then boring to size. It will only take a few minutes to set up the boring bar and each cannon wouldn't take more than a couple minutes to bore. Over 20 cannons, boring wouldn't add more than an hour or so to the entire run.

[Double D]

Have you bought any of this type of tooling from Wholesale Tool?  Is it at least adequate?

Yes I have bought from Wholesale tool and it is good stuff.

[Cat Whisperer]

Let me toss out another approach.

Spade bit.   Each bit is a couple of bucks to 10 or so depending on source and size.

THe holder/shaft is easy to machine and can be made right-much long for cannons not just mortars.

AND the advantage of it is that it can be held just like a boring bar.

Which means the transition of setups from driling to boring is faster and the depth is not limited to the short travel of the tailstock.

Pictured is a bit that was hand ground to provide a radius at the bottom of the bore.

[GGaskill]

Since I gather the Supermax was yours, what is the tail stock taper?

[Cat Whisperer]

Yup - I had two of 'em, consecutive serials numbers too.

#3 morse taper in the tailstock.

Something larger and shorter in the headstock.  #5 maybe, I'll have to measure.

[b. snipes]

Do you use a pilot hole? A lot of force going on drilling a 1.750" hole with a spade bit. I figure around 220 RPM and .015" feed to keep the chips moving. I worry about the stress on the tail stock threaded nut (wrong words here). And do you use a drill bit "holder" (torque arm) to keep the MT shaft from spinning in the tailstock. My tail stock does not have a tang engagement so it relies on the taper fit and it is dicey. I too made my own holder about 16" long. I have a factory unit about 8". Thanks, beech

[GGaskill]

We drilled several 1.719" holes for golf balls in my last cannon class and had no difficulty holding the drill in the tail stock.  The taper should be doing all the work; if it is not, clean out your tail stock taper and make sure it has no serious dings.  And wipe all the oil off the drill and out of the tail stock.

One of the barrels was a Napoleon and we had to make a special extended drill holder for that.  We drilled a pilot hole at 1" as deep as the 24" long drill would go and then went with the big one.  It worked easily while in the pilot hole but took some extra help when it had to drill the last bit by itself.  A pilot hole at least as big as the web is recommended.

[b. snipes]

Yes, I have read that a pilot hole for the web can reduce feed effort by as much as 60%. I will give it another try. My large spade efforts have been in brass with no issues. I tried to clean up a cored piece of mechanical tube that had a rough 1.5" hole with a 1.750" bit and it was a difficult event which I did not like. I think "smooth" metal will be another story. I think the jerky forces in that clean up event were enough to loosen the MT fit in the tail stock. I have a old Hendey 16x54 so there is plenty of HP. I am just trying to be careful of the machinery as I love that lathe. Thanks for the advice. beech

[GGaskill]

I have encountered problems making slight enlargements to already existing holes; the drill seems to grab and try to cut off center until it has half a turn or so of drill in the hole.  Next time I do that, I will bore the hole to finish diameter at least a hole's depth before starting to drill.  Maybe that will calm things down.

[b. snipes]

I was thinking the same exact thing to, get it started and let her go. I also thought about installing adjustable guides on the bit holder 90* to the bit to ride on that bored surface. Middle of the night thoughts. I was going to treat myself to a bronze cannon (things seem to get put off for one reason or another) but copper is so expensive right now forget it. Anyway large hole drilling is always exciting.

[trotterlg]

Making slight enlargements to bore sizes is the reason reamers were invented.  Larry

[b. snipes]

Very good point. beech