Author Topic: A question about how you water proof your handi (Read 2556 times)

mattbowen · « **on:** December 11, 2010, 02:19:00 PM »

I have a question about how you water proof your handi to keep it from rusting when you hunt in adverse weather. I have all ways used a good car wax on all of my rifles and the water runs off, but I don't put it in the barrel.

Dinny · « **Reply #1 on:** December 11, 2010, 02:31:16 PM »

By the year's end all of my Handi rifles (and a few others) will be fully Duracoated. Of course, the internals are not covered but I don't hunt in an area that requires that they are. If you are concerned about water getting down the barrel, I would suggest a neutral colored balloon on the end.

Thanks, Dinny

necchi · « **Reply #2 on:** December 11, 2010, 02:54:33 PM »

Quote from: Dinny on December 11, 2010, 02:31:16 PM

If you are concerned about water getting down the barrel, I would suggest a neutral colored balloon on the end.

Another handi trick for that;
Get some rubber surgical gloves for 99 cents at the hardware or grocery, cut the fingers off and roll'm. you can roll'm down the barrel, the thin layer of latex blows right through with just pressure before the bullet gets there and does nothing to the flight or ballisitcs.
(Olde rainy day Muzzle loader trick)

mauser98us · « **Reply #3 on:** December 11, 2010, 04:40:28 PM »

Stay out of the rain

mechanic · « **Reply #4 on:** December 11, 2010, 04:51:06 PM »

If I get caught in the rain it's an accident, and when I get home I just dry it off and oil it. If I had to spend a lot of time in the rain, more than a day, I would just paint or duracoat it......

Ben

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** December 11, 2010, 07:17:25 PM »

I've lived and hunted on the wet side of Washington state for over 50yrs, if you don't hunt in the rain, you may not get to hunt much! $:-\$ I've used Eezox for the last 20yrs or so, it's about as good as it gets for protecting metal from the elements, Breakfree CLP would be a very good choice too and a lot easier to find locally. Seal a wood stock with Tru-oil.

Tim

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion.html

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10700/guntechdetail/Gun_Cleaning_Clinic__Knowing_the_Limits_of_Rust_Preventatives#at

Lon371 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 11, 2010, 09:54:32 PM »

Though some will curse me. On a gun I have no intentions on ever saleing, I will paint the barrels. I use the self etching green primer paint. I have had one old 12 gage shorty for 25 years. It was rusty when I got it. Cleaned and primed it. Has not had rust on it since.

I do have a couple that I really do not want to paint. I think they are going to get Duracoated.

Lonny

cwlongshot · « **Reply #7 on:** December 11, 2010, 11:24:30 PM »

Welcome Matt!
I agree with Tim,
I too have been using Essox since the guy making it came into our shop to show it to us, some 20? years ago!! GREAT product, now its offered thru Remington and available to more people.
The rubber glove, cutoff fingers is also widely known and a good trick. Hospitals also have an item called a "Finger Cott". I have also seen a specific "rubber" made just for gun barrels offered now too. If you watch the hunting shows, specifically Jim Shockey you will see he does this all the time!

Wax on the gun stocks and grease in the barrel channels. Not such a big deal in the handis, as they come off with one screw. But my levers get a good coat of grease under the forend as I rarely remove the fore stocks. If your going to do this, justs a note, be sure to seal the wood first as the grease will leach into untreated wood and could discolor it.

I also prefer open (peep) sites in the rain. I have a couple rifles I call "rain guns" and they always go with me for just such emergencies!!

Merry Christmas,
CW

jeepmann1948 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2010, 12:36:11 AM »

Just Ask your wife to pick up a large box of condoms when she goes to the grocery store. They work very well to keep the end of your barrel dry and clean. No worries about them coming off if a rubber band is used to secure them.Just shoot thu them .

Swampman · « **Reply #9 on:** December 12, 2010, 01:08:35 AM »

When I used Handis it was so I din't have to worry about messing up an expensive rifle. Don't worry be happy.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #10 on:** December 12, 2010, 01:43:38 AM »

Quote from: Swampman on December 12, 2010, 01:08:35 AM

When I used Handis it was so I din't have to worry about messing up an expensive rifle. Don't worry be happy.

I did to at first, then I gained a little more respect for them!!

CW

JamesIII · « **Reply #11 on:** December 12, 2010, 02:29:06 AM »

A question for you Eezox users. I applied Eezox to about half my firearms and then we went through a very humid 3-4 week period. Humidity and temperature were VERY high and my house has no air conditioning to help remove humidity. The only firearms that gave me a problem were the ones treated with Eezox. I cleaned the firearms and applied a coat of Eezox and let it dry and then applied another coat a few days later. What did I do wrong? The firearms started rusting inside and out. I finally cleaned them and applied BreakFree several times, but the damage has already been done. JamesIII

gendoc · « **Reply #12 on:** December 12, 2010, 03:08:50 AM »

james, i also experianced this with eezox. its mostly 100% humidity here on the gulf coast
and temp swings can go 50 degrees in just a few hours after a front moves thru.
and the salt/brackish water here in the swamp don't help either.
if i get caught in tha rain, i'll taker down and flush with diesel fuel and remove it with clp
and finally a fine coat of rem-oil.
sounds lika lotta work..... it can be to someone that don't mind a rusted gun.
i kan't even think of that....it'll hurt my feelins ifin i get rust

ain't gunna happen....no!!

cwlongshot · « **Reply #13 on:** December 12, 2010, 04:27:53 AM »

I have not experienced this. Sorry to hear about it!! I clean the firearms and wipe them off with clean rags sprinkled with Essox. Long term storage gets a thin coat of grease instead of oil and then gets slid into a silicone sock.

My safes have golden rods installed, plus I keep some moisture absorption packs in there as well, just for good measure. I keep them in a room in my basement. I also keep a dehumidifier running in there and my loading room, year round.

I HATE rust and have too much invested to take any chances with it.

CW

gendoc · « **Reply #14 on:** December 12, 2010, 04:34:42 AM »

all 3 of my liberty 48 gun vaults have dehumidifiers installed and are inside the conditioned shop.
its just the salt air and humidity..... ya jus gotta keep a grip on tha problem down here !!!!

Goatwhiskers · « **Reply #15 on:** December 12, 2010, 04:35:52 AM »

Depending on the circumstances, a garbage bag can be useful. Using Johnson's paste wax like some duck hunters do on the coast works very well. As far as the bore, never had one rust. Goatwhiskers

quickdtoo · « **Reply #16 on:** December 12, 2010, 05:53:26 AM »

Quote from: JamesIII on December 12, 2010, 02:29:06 AM

A question for you Eezox users. I applied Eezox to about half my firearms and then we went through a very humid 3-4 week period. Humidity and temperature were VERY high and my house has no air conditioning to help remove humidity. The only firearms that gave me a problem were the ones treated with Eezox. I cleaned the firearms and applied a coat of Eezox and let it dry and then applied another coat a few days later. What did I do wrong? The firearms started rusting inside and out. I finally cleaned them and applied BreakFree several times, but the damage has already been done. JamesIII

I've never had a problem and no one I know has, and I know lots of friends and family that use it and all the extreme tests links bear that out. If the first coat was dry, why did you put on a second coat? Sounds like the second coat was too heavy and didn't dry maybe.

Tim

http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

**PLEASE READ THESE DIRECTIONS BEFORE USING**

NOTE: EEZOX® is not harmful to ORIGINAL factory wood finishes. If product comes into contact with rubber grips, wipe until dry.

1. CLEANING: Using only EEZOX®, clean all parts of your firearm, including bore, barrel, actions, mechanisms, metal surfaces and parts. Make sure all residual solvents, greases, waxes and Teflon coatings from previous cleaning are removed at this time. IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO FOLLOW THIS CLEANING WITH OTHER PRODUCTS.

2. LUBRICATING: When the firearm is thoroughly cleaned and wiped dry, apply a very light coat of EEZOX® to all parts and allow to dry. This may take several hours on new applications. If too much EEZOX® has been applied, remove the excess with a soft cloth, being careful to leave only a light coating of EEZOX®. This step is very important. You do not want EEZOX® to lay in a pool and dry, as overuse can cause the surface to be sticky. If this has happened to you, simply clean your firearm again with EEZOX® and wipe it dry.

3. PROTECTING: Once the last application of EEZOX® has dried, your firearm is ready for use or storage. Although dry, EEZOX® continues to protect, both in use and in storage.

mattbowen · « **Reply #17 on:** January 14, 2011, 12:33:50 AM »

Thanks for all of the reply's guys;

I have all ways used a coating of car wax ( I like the clear wax) on all of the metal surfaces and several coats of tung oil in the barrel channel. I have never had a problem, and living in the south like "gendoc" said the humidity in the summer can get to the extreme.

petemi · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2011, 02:19:17 AM »

I cant remember who, but someone here strongly recommended Strike Hold. I ordered two cans, and have used it very successfully. It's a spray that dries to a dry lubricant and waterproofer. I couple of years back I missed a shot at a nice buck at six below zero because the lube in my frame froze. Strong Hold will flush that out and replace it with a dry lubricant. I like it.

Pete

yukondog · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2011, 02:47:00 AM »

I also live on the gulf coast and humid day are a lot even in the winter, I hunt in the rain or shine I wont say I'v never had a gun that did not start to lightly rust but I clean them as soon as I get in and give them a good coat of rem oil and dont have any problem.

Sourdough · « **Reply #20 on:** January 14, 2011, 05:09:26 AM »

It's called Rustolium. Textured paint for the metal, feels like it has sand in it. Accents Paint for the wood makes it look like a rock. Works for me.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #21 on:** January 14, 2011, 05:44:58 AM »

Rog, isn't that the rifle that spent some time at the bottom of a river before it got that nice finish?

Tim

jbtazgrabber · « **Reply #22 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:24:16 AM »

i have been teflon coating on my ft stuffers and powder coating some of the rifles.....actions and barrels....i like the teflon best but its very slippery when wet............small town place got powderd for 40 bucks and tefloh a little more 50 bucks for actions and barrels..............jb

Sourdough · « **Reply #23 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:39:34 AM »

Yes Tim, that's why it rusted. Still shoots just fine, no water got into the chamber or barrel.

I've also done that to my Ultra .223, and a Mini-14, only they are white.

gcrank1 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 15, 2011, 01:50:27 PM »

My Dad's 1918 8mm Mauser metal has a satin black Rustoleum paint job in a cut down mil-stock heavily coated in sun cured True-Oil.
It always looks the same for 25+ yrs.
Ugly....but 'purposeful'.

Darreld Walton · « **Reply #25 on:** January 16, 2011, 02:25:09 AM »

Been using Johnson paste floor wax since I was 12 years old. A long time ago, it seems.
When the hunting seasons run late and there's a really good chance for inclement weather, I usually break the gun down before range time prior to the season, give it all a good gunge, and gun oil and grease in the guts, except for the locking lugs/shelf/latch...
As to the bore, I leave it completely dry. I use and keep a small roll of good electrical tape, give the barrel one layer across the end of the muzzle, and a wrap at least two layers thick around it to hold it on. I've yet to have the tape interfere with the bullet to the point that it changed my first round zero. Easy to remove, and it doesn't slip off, or rip, tear, and easy to re-apply.
Of course, now, I ain't on the coast, and even my trips to Alaska have been to the interior, so I'm dealing with light rain, or snow where I hunt.
If I was going to the coast, I'd probably do the same thing I usually do, and take the stainless Model 70 in synthetic stock.
Oh, almost forgot...I always have a small can of WD-40 in a pocket or the bag, works great to displace water, and it really really helps get wet kindling going quick when I need a fire fast.

spartacus1239 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 17, 2011, 08:18:56 AM »

A couple of heavy coats of Johnson's Paste Wax does the trick for me. smear it on all metal and wood parts, let it dry, then buff it off... repeat and i have yet to have a gun rust.

Do this to all my bows. knives, axes and tomahawks also

Big Blue · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2011, 08:32:53 AM »

I've used GunKote bake on finish on some guns. It works great right over a previously parkerized finish, but requires removal of any blue before being used. It's one tough finish! It doesn't matter much what you decide on though because anything beats rust.
Don

peepingtom · « **Reply #28 on:** January 17, 2011, 05:40:54 PM »

I like boeshield T-9 in a spray can. I spray the entire weapon inside and out after cleaning. Except the bore. Use breakfree clp for that. Let the boeshield dry 4-5 days and wipe off the excess. It dries hard, protects and lubricates. Hasn't hurt any wood I have but try on a small spot on your firearm first. Works great on saltwater fishing reels, too.

Developed by Boeing Aircraft to lubricate hard to reach areas during assembly.

It's hard to find. Bought mine on Ebay from a Bike shop.