Author Topic: Pillers in forend (Read 969 times)

X-Ring · « **on:** December 15, 2003, 09:55:37 AM »

Has anyone ever tried putting alumium pillers in a Contender forend, instead of using washers, etc. If so what was the result.

Javelina · « **Reply #1 on:** December 20, 2003, 05:52:02 AM »

Hello X-Ring,

You are describing the common practice of pillar-bedding which is done in a variety of ways.

To answer your question, yes, you can easily use aluminum pillars instead of stainless washers. I have several forends made that way that came from Virgin Valley for my Encores and they work GREAT!

When you do this as part of a home/shop project, you will want to put some gnurling or something similar on the outside of the pillar where it will be set into the forend - that way the Marine-Tex or similar material used to hold the pillars will maintain a good grip on the pillar when the gun is under recoil. I also suggest that you form the top of the pillar (where it contacts the barrel) into a concave shape that matches the curvature of the barrel to get the best possible contact when the forend is installed and tightened down.

You will only need to make the pillars high enough to stand the barrel off the forend about the thickness of a matchbook cover (slipped between the barrel and forend when the forend is installed) to ensure isolation from the barrel during firing vibration. Personally, I use laminate forends and I like mine about twice the thickness of a matchbook cover off the barrel but that is only personal preference and it is probable for aesthetic reasons that most folks would rather not have quite that much distance between the barrel and the forend.

It's an easy task with fairly common shop tools and if you'd rather not do it yourself, Bullberry, Virgin Valley and many others will be happy to do it for you for very small $. It's been a few years, but if my recollection is accurate, my extended Encore forends were about $50 each (WITH pillar-bedding) from Virgin Valley when I bought them. . .they may be a little more now.

Safe and good shooting to you!

Javelina

Moe · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2003, 06:42:51 AM »

Javelina, good to see you are still hangin out. Whats new. Any shootin goin on? My "new" 357 Max barrel has promise. Its Magna-Ported. Man it comes straight back when you shoot it. Barely any muzzle flip. Only fired it about 40 times so far. Going to try no crimp on a few loads and see how they do.

Raven · « **Reply #3 on:** December 22, 2003, 04:31:16 AM »

Javelina,

I am considering adding pillars to one of my forearms. I cannot find pillars that have a small enough hole in them to accomodate the 8-40 screws for an Encore. The pillars listed in the Brownells catelog are all at least 1/4" ID, whereas for the #8 screws, I would think you would need something closer to a 1/8" ID so that there is not a lot play. How are the pillars that you have sized in relation to the forearm screws?

Additionally, do they drill the hole for the pillar completely through the forearm the same OD as the pillar, similar to bedding the action of a Rem 700? Or do they stop the hole just short of breaking through the bottom of the forend, leaving the exsting opening to get to the screw? In other words, if your turn the gun upside down, can you see the end of the alluminum pillar, or just the same small hole that you put the factoy screw in? I am not sure if I am describing this situation well, hopefully you can figure out what I am talking about.

Thanks for your help.

Javelina · « **Reply #4 on:** December 26, 2003, 02:10:19 PM »

Hello Raven,

The Encore forend pillars that were installed by VV for me have an I.D. just large enough to let the forend screws clear in the hole - the entire diameter is approximately 3-3.5X the diameter of the screw shaft. The forend is a laminated VV extra-long Encore forend for a factory taper barrel (it is the only non-bull barrel I have at this time) and VV furnished the screws with the forend. The pillars are not punched all the way through, but are roughed-up on the inserted end and seem to be bedded (glued) in with something similar to Acra-glas or Marine-Tex (Marine-Tex is cheaper and it's what I use when I do my own bedding work). I cannot see the end of the pillar when I turn the forend upside-down.

I have never had pillars in a walnut (or any other type of wood) forend. You might want to ensure that the O.D. on your pillars is as large as reasonably possible and that you support the pillars with plenty of surrounding glass material.

I hope this is helpful. Safe and good shooting to you!

Javelina

Javelina · « **Reply #5 on:** December 26, 2003, 02:17:55 PM »

Hello again Raven,

I'm sorry, but I forgot to include this link to McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/

They have a lot of cool stuff there and you may find what you want on their site. There are also quite a few good hardware stores around (I have good luck with the regular Ace Hardware stores) that have this type of material for pillars.

Safe and good shooting to you!

Javelina

444encore · « **Reply #6 on:** December 26, 2003, 03:57:08 PM »

Raven,
If you can't find the correct sized pillars for your fore end, send me some dimensions and will turn you some out for a small fee.
Benchrest300wm@aol.com

Raven · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2003, 10:40:06 AM »

Thanks for the info Javelina.

444
I am looking around for some pillars. I may need to take you up on your offer. I'll let you know.

Thanks again for both of your help.

Selmer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2004, 08:39:51 AM »

I have my Encore pillar-bedded and I have a little problem with it. The front pillar is pulling out from the recoil! I'm shooting a .454 Casull, and yes, there are some heavy loads coming out. My question is, what can I do about it? It pulls out a little with each shot, but I push it back in on the gun. What epoxy should I use to seat it in the forend again? How can I get the pillar out without damaging the forend? The only way I could get it to budge was by shooting it, I'm sure I need to drive it out, but I don't want to damage the forend. I didn't pillar bed it, I had it done. Is this something I should call the gunsmith on to have redone for free? Please let me know if you have any info for me.
Sincerely,
Selmer

444encore · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2004, 09:21:26 AM »

Selmer,
Only the person who did the job can know exactly what he did without looking at it. So it's impossible to give fix advise properly. If it's moving out when you shoot it , it can also be removed without shooting it. I'm sure an arbor press with proper sized pilot hole could remove it without causing damage. Although I can't say that whoever did the job will fix it for free unless he gave you a magnum proof warranty.

Selmer · « **Reply #10 on:** January 04, 2004, 04:24:58 AM »

I got curious last night and decided to try to take care of this problem myself, after consulting a gunsmithing friend. I laid the forend upside down on a towel, used a piece of steel to drive the pillars out, no problem at all. After doing this, I discovered that there was absolutely zero epoxy on the pillars themselves, it had merely been set over the top of the pillars, they were roughed up or stippled, however you want to say it, so that they would have a little grip. I got out hte JB Weld, mixed a little up, smeared it on the inside of the holes in the forend, drove the pillars into the desired depth, free-floating the barrel, and put the gun back together. I got up this morning, took it apart with no problems, and smeared just a little JB on the sides of the pillars, they're protruding about the width of a couple matchbook covers, and it's now setting up. I'll take it out with some heavy loads and try a few shots tomorrow and see if it holds. Wish me luck!
Selmer