Shin: Gotta ask - did the bolt close properly before you disassembled it? If so, then you do not have the bolt back together properly. Did you disassemble the bolt simply to clean it or was there a problem with extracting cases? If there was a problem to begin with (ie., difficult to close the bolt, won't close on a live round, etc.) that you felt the need to replace the extractor and spring?
You now know that Mausers feed from the magazine and that you cannot close the bolt on a round dropped into the chamber.
Mauser bolts were/are individually fitted, I believe, so buying another 98 bolt for another rifle, for a swap, may not be successful and may leave you with headspace problems.
When you reassembled the bolt and screwed the safety block back down, the detent pin that holds the safety block in place 'click' into place on the bolt sleeve, but you have to depress the detent (at least) once more and continue to turn the safety block (another 1/2 turn) until the detent 'clicks' into place again, then the safety block is properly seated and the bolt should work properly if there were no problems with it before you disassembled it.
If, after all this fails and/or you were experiencing problems with the bolt closing when you first obtained the rifle then I suggest you take it to a gunsmith who can properly fit a Mauser bolt.
As the bigtexan said, Mauser bolts either work or they don't. Some Mausers may be smooth as glass but even if you got one of the top of the line mil-surp 98s, they are still mil-surp 98s made to military specs which allow for battlefield conditions and there is play in the action; even my Swedish 98 sporter in 8mm is just the normal Swedish made 98 (but the Swedes like to think they are just that much better than the German made 98s) used for commercial manufacture and although nice and smooth it does enjoy some mil-surp bolt play. HTH.