Author Topic: Please Help Need info on A&K Mfg. Co. Inc Signal Cannons (Read 3343 times)

irtmks · « **on:** February 07, 2011, 05:05:36 PM »

trying to find info including instructions. I guess you just fill it up to the top and light a match? Just Kidding....I know nothing about cannons except I always wanted one since i was 5 and now i am 58 and got one. I know they go bang, but i think I need some info before I get to that point. I liked the looks of this guy and being a native of Tucson, thought it was cool. I understood they made cannons in the 60-70's era? would love more info any kind

The one I have is a six pounder about 2 feet + long and about 8" high. Barrel is 5/8" and about 15" long.

thanks

GGaskill · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2011, 05:14:38 PM »

Pictures would help. Include something of universally known size so people get a sense of scale.

irtmks · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:08:44 PM »

the bore is 5/8 by the way, not the barrel.

I must be an idiot for I have spent over an hour trying to insert pictures. I have read the help page. Yes I see the insert image icon. Yes I click on the icon and get the code....but what comes next? not the file name?

I must be lost in a black powder funk

Cannoneer · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:50:29 PM »

Welcome aboard! A & K MFG. Co., INC. out of Tucson, AZ made four models: An "American Revolutionary Six Pounder Field Cannon," "Naval Deck Gun," "Dahlgren Gun With Marsilly Carriage," and a "Coehorn Siege Mortar." "All barrels are made fom solid billets of steel. There are no welds, press fits or dangerous castings used in barrel manufacture." I'm copying this stuff out of their brochure, and there's also a picture of a guy of 300+ pounds standing on the field gun with a caption that reads "These Cannons Are Darn Tough!"
If a small steel cup with a brass pointed rod coming out the bottom came with your gun, that's the powder measure and vent prick. For obvious reasons their suggested load for the field gun is 50 gr. FFg.

Double D · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:07:06 PM »

To use the insert picture icon you have to have you picture lodge on a picture hosting sight. Here on GBO you have a free picture hosting site called https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/join.php

There is some size restrictions for post pictures to https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/join.php.

Once you have a picture posted in https://www.gboreloaded.com/mhp/join.php all you have to do is copy the BBcode for the picture and paste in the reply window.

If you have a picture hosting service else where the that does not BBcode your picture for posting, copy URL and Paste that URL in the post, then highlight it and click on the picture icon and the url will be coded.

You can also click the attachments and other options right below the reply window and when the menu opens select the choose files and you will be able to upload pictures direct from you computer as attachments. They will post as thumbnails and folks will have click on the pictures to see them full size. There are restriction on pictures size posted in this manner.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2011, 01:10:08 AM »

irtmks

WELCOME to the board. Keep trying on the pix. It's the little things that screw you up.

Then we can see pix of SMOKE and FLAME too!

irtmks · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2011, 03:59:01 AM »

Let me try the pictures again. And thank you all so much for your help so far. I feel a part of something BIG!

BoomJ Thank you so very much for your info. I really wish I had found this site before last night! So if this is all steel with no welds, would you say if all is in good condition, this should be OK to fire? If you ever get near a scanner, I would love a copy of the brochure, as I hope to pass this down to my one and only grandchild someday. (My wife thinks that day should be sooner than later, and is suggesting my cremated remains be stuffed in the barrel, complete with fuse ready to go!)

irtmks · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2011, 04:05:49 AM »

Now for a stupid question (Before you say their are NO stupid questions, I will let you know I spent the last few years of working as a High School Industrial Arts teacher - believe me...there ARE stupid questions!)

the hole for the fuse is 1/8" So...is it common to buy 3/32 fuse? or stuff 1/8 fuse in a 1/8 hole. Is the object for the fuse to fit tight? or with some play?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2011, 05:21:38 AM »

I agree, there are stupid questions, such as, Tim would you like a beer? The answer is obvious.

A rule of thumb for vents is that the ID of the vent be 1-1/2 times the diameter of the fuse.

Spuddy · « **Reply #9 on:** February 08, 2011, 05:48:31 AM »

(My wife thinks that day should be sooner than later, and is suggesting my cremated remains be stuffed in the barrel, complete with fuse ready to go!)

This is obviously the go-ahead for a new cannon with a larger bore, as we all know that your cremated remains will more than fill your current tube.

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2011, 07:37:01 AM »

Quote from: Spuddy on February 08, 2011, 05:48:31 AM

(My wife thinks that day should be sooner than later, and is suggesting my cremated remains be stuffed in the barrel, complete with fuse ready to go!)

This is obviously the go-ahead for a new cannon with a larger bore, as we all know that your cremated remains will more than fill your current tube.

Irtmks, This is great advice and comes from a cannoneer who lives in the fresh air of northern Maine which allows him to think more clearly and concisely than most of us. This idea has merit, because it is logical, simple and ultimately practical.

Go for it!

Tracy and Mike

irtmks · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2011, 08:18:52 AM »

Actually this has happened in a way. I go bird hunting in AZ with a bunch of retired (sometimes retarded) school teachers. One guy has it set up that he should be filled into 10 Ga shells and we are to "distribute" him over the desert. I volunteered to do the brain as I can just use my 410.

I am 240 pounds but my wife thinks she can get me all in the barrel of the cannon by using some power tools, a microwave, and a fork.

so if my fuse hole (not mine, I mean on the cannon) is 1/8" are you saying I should use a fuse 1.5 times smaller?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2011, 09:00:41 AM »

Fuse = 1/8" or 0.125" (commonly available) then the fuse hole is 1.5x that = 0.1875 (3/16).

3/16 is BIG for a small cannon, hence if you're shooting a 1/2" bore or so use a smaller fuse size.

One of those is 2mm (0.079") for which you would drill a 3mm hole (0.118").

Double D · « **Reply #13 on:** February 08, 2011, 09:06:16 AM »

Yes that is a rule of thumb that was post some where, can't remember where. I wouldn't worry to much about it, just buy some 3/32 fuse.

I ordered 50fe et from www.cannonfuse.com last Tuesday and I got it the next day. Here's what I got http://www.cannonfuse.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1&idcategory=2

Cannoneer · « **Reply #14 on:** February 08, 2011, 02:10:31 PM »

irtmks,
The fuse you use should be an easy fit, so any size from 3mm on down to 1/16'' will work fine in a 1/8'' vent (I've been using the skinny 1/16th fuse lately, I like it). Use real black powder if you can, it smells like rotten eggs when it burns, it makes a louder boom, and it makes beautiful white smoke. A 5/8-inch bore converts to .62 caliber, so use grandpa's old method for black powder rifles: One grain of powder for every caliber, so 62 gr. FFg to fire a projectile, (or just work your load up from 50gr. to what you like) and double the load (124 gr.) for a salute.
I've got the Dahlgren model which is the same bore size as yours, and it's a solid little cannon. Your gun looks clean, so check to see that the bore and vent are clear, and you should be good to go.
Send me a message with your ground address, and I'll send you a copy of the A & K pamphlet along with copies of some other papers that give their safety recomendations for their cannons. One of their dictums is to always use a safety rammer when loading the gun, (they call it a ram, and provide diagrams) and I think this is sound advice.

GGaskill · « **Reply #15 on:** February 08, 2011, 02:26:05 PM »

The recommendation is to start ridiculously low in comparison to a muzzle loading rifle or pistol. The reason is the guns free recoil as opposed to being hand-held and consequently, don't have the mass of the hand(s) to absorb some of the recoil.

Legio3arty · « **Reply #16 on:** May 08, 2012, 12:02:14 AM »

Greetings,
New guy here. I found this forum because I was searching the web for info on exactly this type of cannon, an A&K Mfg. Co 6-pounder. I bought one on Ebay last week and I was tying to find out the proper load and fuses to use with it. Many thanks to the folks who have already replied to the OP with their suggestions. My gun arrived on Saturday afternoon and I can't wait to touch it off. I've ordered 50ft of cannon fuse and I've got plenty of shots already pre-rolled.
I knew from the seller's description that it had recently had some repair work done on the axles and that there was some rust on the barrel, so I wasn't terribly upset when I opened the box and found out that the axle had broken completlely off under the left trunion. Apparently a quick glue-job wasn't enough to support such a stout piece. I immediately stripped it down, cleaned & re-blued the barrel, and turned a new one-piece oak axle on the lathe. I'm going to have my buddy clean and scope the bore first, but if it looks as good as the outsides do now I'm planning on live firing this beast. Supposedly its a .62 cal (.641) bore, so I'm assuming a patched .600 lead ball will work. Any suggestions? Also, If anyone has access to the original literature I'd sure appreciate a copy. Mine is a little bit different from the one the OP posted. My wheels are a lot more like traditional artillery ones, with no clamps on the felloes, tapered spokes, and smaller hubs. Also, mine still has the original ramp-type quoin to elevate the barrel. If anyone is interested I plan to make a fullset of CAD drawings of the carriage. I will probably end up detailing out the whole gun and making a full set of implements for it and eventually painting it the correct light bluish-gray color.

flagman1776 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 08, 2012, 04:09:35 AM »

delete

Double D · « **Reply #18 on:** May 08, 2012, 04:22:29 AM »

Patching is okay for the standard rifle an pistol caliber cannons. Just reduce yout load for standard loads to reduce recoil.

But way before that you need to take a good look at that barrel. What is it made off what ar its dimensions?

BoomLover · « **Reply #19 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:49:55 AM »

Legio3arty, welcome to the Forum! Lots of great info here, along with about the most informed Cannon, Howitzer, and Mortar guys on the planet!

Cannoneer · « **Reply #20 on:** May 08, 2012, 06:58:43 AM »

Legio3arty,

Welcome to the board! Send me your home address by personal message, and I'll mail you copies of the A&K Mfg. Co., Inc. models brochure and instruction leaflet.

Legio3arty · « **Reply #21 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:26:03 PM »

Quote from: Double D on May 08, 2012, 04:22:29 AM

Patching is okay for the standard rifle an pistol caliber cannons. Just reduce yout load for standard loads to reduce recoil.

But way before that you need to take a good look at that barrel. What is it made off what ar its dimensions?

The barrel is single-piece billet steel a little over 15" long. They list the bore as .641". I haven't been able to exmine it yet because my bore light is dead. I'll work on getting exact dimensions and better close-ups. Externally there was some surface rust/pitting especially around the vent where one would expect. It cleaned up pretty nicely, but I'll probably end up stripping and re-blueing it a blacker shade. I'm pretty confident this thing will check out OK. I've trusted my life and limb to muskets with much longer and thinner barrels.

Legio3arty · « **Reply #22 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:39:19 PM »

Here's a couple of updated pics with the barrel cleaned up a bit and the new oak axle fitted. The dollar bill should help give some sense of scale.

RocklockI · « **Reply #23 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:43:31 PM »

Welcome guys !

I'm glad to hear you have good barrels . This is the place to learn .

Gary

flagman1776 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2012, 04:15:05 AM »

Double D · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2012, 05:22:06 AM »

Quote from: Legio3arty on May 08, 2012, 05:26:03 PM

The barrel is single-piece billet steel a little over 15" long.... I've trusted my life and limb to muskets with much longer and thinner barrels.

Neither makes this cannon safe, absent additional information.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #26 on:** May 09, 2012, 10:50:45 AM »

Their barrels are made form 4140 solid stock, and the literature doesn't say how the trunnions are attached, but they're not welded. The specifications given for the (6-pdr) field gun barrel are:
Weight......... 8 lbs. 12 oz.
Length................. 15 1/2''
Diam. at muzzle..... 1 5/8''
Diam. at breech........... 2''
Bore......................... 5/8''

Double D · « **Reply #27 on:** May 09, 2012, 02:23:14 PM »

4140 major plus!!!!

Legio3arty · « **Reply #28 on:** May 11, 2012, 04:54:23 AM »

I took my cannon down to my buddy at the local gunshop and he gave it a clean bill of heath. The rust on the outside was the worst of it. The only problem is that now he wants to borrow the gun occasionally for his window display. Apparently it drew quite a lot of interest from eveyone who came in while he had it on the bench. I guess letting him show off my toy is a small price to pay for the good will of a skilled gunsmith.
A light coat of oil gave my slap-dash blueing job more of the black-iron look I was hoping for. I've started making a display set of implements (scoop, worm, rammer, etc) but I want to do more research to get them period-correct. That's the history major in me showing through. I don't want to get too fanatical with the historical accuracy thing, since that would mean having to rework a perfectly functional carriage. I'm sure I'll have more fun if I focus on shooting accuracy. The one thing I plan to do in that area that some folks might disagree with is painting the carriage the proper light sky-gray color. I know most prospective buyers prefer the natural oiled wood look when it's sitting on a shelf, but it just looks wrong to me. If nothing else, it will make this piece stand out compared to traditional display guns. In the end I could still make back every penny I've got in this project if I ever wanted to sell it.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #29 on:** May 11, 2012, 11:56:37 AM »

Quote from: Legio3arty on May 08, 2012, 12:02:14 AM

Mine is a little bit different from the one the OP posted. My wheels are a lot more like traditional artillery ones, with no clamps on the felloes, tapered spokes, and smaller hubs.

The ten spoked strake wheels seen on this topic opener's cannon must be on an early A&K 6-pdr model, because the brochure photo shows a carriage with 12 spoked wheels like yours.