Author Topic: Hardening the home for defense (Read 3538 times)

JeffDavis · « **on:** February 11, 2011, 05:04:17 PM »

I have been reading Bugeye's thread about being too old to bug out with a lot of interest. While I am not too old to bug out, I have 3 kids (7, 4, and 3); the 7 year old has Spina Bifida and needs a wheel chair for primary mobility. Current circumstances dictate I bug IN for the long haul.

My thought is to take some tax money to build up a food/water/first aid supply, but I am wanting to improve the doors, windows, and walls. Does anyone have ideas as to how to go about this without being obvious as to what my defenses consist of? I prefer not to dig a moat and mine the yards!

I want to change out the front and back doors to solid (I currently have the doors with large glass windows) core or metal doors with stronger locks and bolts. I also
have several windows around the house and an attached 2 door garage.

Also, I am considering alternate sources of heat and power to supplement or replace in times of natural or man-made disaster. What do you recommend here as well?
Any thoughts would be welcome.

Thanks in advance

BUGEYE · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2011, 02:28:56 AM »

I really don't know where I'd start to harden my home. I know that I wouldn't put up bars. a woman here burned to death because she couldn't get out because of window bars.
I'll be watching this thread because I might be forced to do the same as you.

pastorp · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2011, 02:55:10 AM »

Do a search on Jeff Cooper. He was a paid consultant on these things until his death. He has some good info on Harding your home.

Regards,

Lost Farmboy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2011, 09:55:24 AM »

Read the book,”Patriots”.

charles p · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2011, 10:35:47 AM »

Tell me how to use tax money for hardening a home? Are you talking about a tax credit or deduction, such as for energy efficient modifications, or simply using your refund check to fund this project.

For the door mods, why not change to a steel door and jam. You might also be able to hang an inner door that would contain a sight hole so that you can see who is at your door. A video camera might be simpler. A motion detector around each door might be of use. I read once that a fellow had a problem with a peeping tom and wired a motion detector to his home irrigation, thus when the peeping tom came around, the sprinklers were turned on and wet him thoroughly.

I've thought of attaching a generator to an exercise bike. My wife needs to loose some weight, and we could always use some free energy to power the frig.

Pat/Rick · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2011, 10:54:56 AM »

My emergency hardening plan is to stack firewood along the exterior walls to start, I would also board up windows, it would only offer concealment and NOT cover.Hence the firewood. I am planning to get solid steel exterior doors but they are down the list a ways.

blind ear · « **Reply #6 on:** February 12, 2011, 11:04:34 AM »

Old castles and forts had turrets accessable from within the building that afforded cover and a clear shot at the exterior of the entrances to the structure. ear

Hit or Miss · « **Reply #7 on:** February 12, 2011, 04:38:17 PM »

There is only so much you can do to harden an existing house without enormous expense.

Doors-as you mentioned, steel is a good way to go. When you install them make sure to use good quality (GRK brand) screws of 3" to fasten the frame to the rough out opening. If you have room, sandwich an extra stud on the hinge side of the door between the jamb and the existing stud. Replace the cheap 3/4 inch screws that hold the hinges to the jamb with good quality screws 3" long also. On the subject of locks, use a decent quality grade 2 passage lock for the door knob. Install two very good deadbolts, one above and one below the knob. I like the Masterlock brand as they have a longer throw bolt on them. When you install the deadbolts make sure to reinforce the latch plates with extra long, good quality screw also. Buying outswing doors will also add a certain amount of security also. It would be harder to breach them with a ram. This will preclude the use of storm doors though.

Windows-something like hurricane shutters are about as good as it is going to get.

Walls-it will take a brick facade to make the best looking defense against small arms fire. In a worst case scenario, sand bags stacked along interior walls would work too.

These are just some of the thoughts I have had and also some of the research I have found on this topic. I'm no genius nor did I sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night!

charles p · « **Reply #8 on:** February 13, 2011, 12:02:21 PM »

Stacking firewood against your house may lead to insect damages, like termites. It could also make your home more vulnerable to fire.

don heath · « **Reply #9 on:** February 13, 2011, 08:03:47 PM »

Comming from Africa where breaking and entry is the national sport...

1) I have 16mm (3/4") deformed bars on the 'safe' area (Bedrooms and bathrooms). On one window the bars open from the inside only as an emergency excape route. The inside of the roof is reinforced with 1/16" armoured mesh over the safe area. Rest of the house has 12mm (1/2") deformed bars on the windows. Of course walls are 9" brick so bolting the bars in place was no problem.

For the wifes new home in rural Sweden looking at the 'ACE' laminates or similar. Unnoticeable but will defeat hadgun bullets and you cannot put a brick throght the window to gain access. In Sweden the windows are double glased so only do the outer one. also reduces heat loss.

Steel doors are cheaper than wooden ones in Africa and have replaced both wooden doors leading into the safe area with steel and put extra dead bolts on them. The main store room acts as a last resort. 18" concreaat walls and roof and safe type door that can be opened from both sides but firmly blocked from the inside. Never had a break in yet and most of my neigbors get hit once a month

teamnelson · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2011, 11:31:34 AM »

What don said!

Pretty much of all of the Patrol Bases we occupied in Iraq were homes, fortunately concrete and steel are the preferred materials in Iraq so it simplified some things. But there's a lot you can do. The role of the Gunner in an Infantry Bn is to evaluate the hardness of PB and FB. I learned alot doing FOB visits with him, and I don't have a house to harden.

First thing is to approach your home from every direction out to say 1000 yds. Learn the terrain and where the natural or manmade features already provide some protection for you.

Then, think of how to channel any adversary towards your house where you would want them to be. Draw a picture from a birdseye view and map it out. If you have wide open areas that they could approach your house unseen, plant some really nasty thorny nettly poisonous looking things. Its unobtrusive and cheap. Plant trees to block scope lines, build a shed as a standoff. In other words, place natural obstacles to where they would naturally avoid them and wind up in a place you could see and fire upon them.

Now you know where to harden the most because you know from which place they are most likely to approach. Some things you won't be able to harden, but you could camoflage to where it wasn't attractive to the casual eye, like generators, water barrels, anything that looks valuable.

After that its all about $. You could make some precut frames strung with 1/16" wire that you could rapidly screw into the exterior of your window frames. Metal shutters? Sandbags stacked up to 4' high all around your house, or pour a concrete wall up to 4' as a facade on your exterior wall.

And lots of fire extinguishers.

Victor3 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2011, 06:15:17 PM »

Some folks have homes in remote areas of our local mountains. Not way off the beaten track, they're usually grouped together in areas where the Forest Service has issued permits and long leases to live in the National Forests. Some of these homes are the most hardened livable places I've seen. Not just against break-ins, but also to withstand fire and flood. Many have 4' thick slabs poured onto granite with the house built out of the local rock. Most have metal roofs and what look to be 1/4" steel shutters and outer doors with padlocks and steel shields over them.

Talking to a very old (and obviously "hardened" herself) local lady who's family had owned one of these places since 1918, she said that over the years she'd seen many build flimsy wooden vacation cabins that would eventually be robbed when the owners were away, burned in a forest fire or washed away during bad winters. "It aint as easy to live here as some might think. I've seen 'em come and I've seen 'em go."

My wood frame, asphalt roof cracker box in the city? One molotov cocktail and it's all over. No easy way for me to protect against that.

Bugflipper · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2011, 03:35:29 AM »

Not trying to be a downer. It is always good to secure a house to protect your family. Just from common criminals if nothing else. However most homes in America are wood walled and asphalt shingled. Both go up pretty quick if they want to burn you out. If I had a flammable exterior I would focus more on just the typical windows and doors. Stock up on food/supplies and ammo. If things get extremely terrible I would have a secondary residence scoped out to move to that had more permanent sustainability. Such as an old brick mansion, a warehouse, fall out shelter or whatever is in close proximity of you and easily made inhabitable if the population starts to fade. Long term would require a water and food source as well.

Couger · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2011, 07:40:31 AM »

You're not a "downer," Bugflipper, but a realist methinks.

My dad passed away a few years ago, both of us were big Louis L'Amour fans. L'Amour often mentioned in many of his european stories how the family home or abode might have a "back door" or escape route from danger! Something often contemplated in midevil europe.

My pops pointed out to me a couple times how such a feature was too often overlooked in the USA, especially in the 20th century.

Plus I agree that modern "stick homes" and modular-built (homes built of 2x4 framing with gypsum walls and fiberglass insulation, and asphalt roofing) are not robust enough to withstand a powerful seige! Crud, a .30/06 bullet ccould easily go completely through 90-plus percent of all American homes!

I think a hardened, better-protected home is a good idea if possible (borrowing some of Jeff Cooper's ideas and 'designs?' -one example), but a panic room or "hardened" basement might be more feasible most often than hardening the whole house (or a cast iron bathtub! But can the family hide in the old bathtub at the same time!!??). Of course I'd want to incorporate a means to escape a fire as well as bad guys trying to break in!).

Methinks layering a home's defenses is still the best places to start (lighting at night, creating the paths a person must take (any person who approaches the house - like 'fields of fire' the Army sets up on a battelfield before a battle) can help "direct" a potential threat to where Joe Homeowner might deal with something better to his advantage!). These things could be enhanced by where doors and windows are located in the home's design. And by not having too much "glass" for that proverbial "million-dollar-view" too many homeowners think their "mansions" must have!!

I can also see how the design a of home's lot and driveway and fenceline are all critical to good home security. Every now and then I see a home that has a huge rock in its yard as part of its lansscaping design, to deflect and shield any cars the owner is afraid could crash into his house if a drunk or vehicle failed to negotiate a critical turn by that last obstacle! First time I ever saw that was in a home's front yard where too many teenagers couldn't make a slippery turn at the bottom of a hill that ended right before jumping a curb into a front yard! Looked a little funny but was actually a huge hazard.

"Hardening" a home can employ many ideas and philosophies! Sorry if I rambled.

Pat/Rick · « **Reply #14 on:** February 21, 2011, 11:08:38 AM »

It would have been very nice to be able to build a masonry constructed house. Concrete block, poured solid with grout would be a good start. However, even AP's and steel cored ammo can "beat" a hole in that. Underground would be an ideal set up, not worrying so much about fire either. One would have to reinforce the main opening and any skylights though. maybe an older styled block house would work. probably wouldn't cost much to stack up 14 or 16 foot 12x12's. Though like most folks, my style of housing would be more utilitarian and spartan were I not married. The ol' "happy wife, happy life" saying rings true. I have thought about building a block house on the backside of the property. Maybe about 10x 14. Got some other more important projects to do first though. maybe I'll give mutual materials a call and find out how much 8x16x8 C.M.U.'s are going for these days.

WD45 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2011, 07:28:51 AM »

I have thought this over for a long time now and figure at least 90 % of the people that live in the US do not live in a defendable home in a crap hits the fan situation. The most defendable homes I have seen are the old german stone homes that were built in the area I live in. Most of them are 2 story and the walls are about 3 feet thick. No kidding. It would have no problem withstanding any type of small arms fire. Sure beats my silly frame and clapboard box

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2011, 08:44:15 AM »

Metal doors are good . The window in them can be covered with plexiglass on the inside leaving the normal apperance on the out side. use vandal proof screws that come thru from the outside with washers and nuts on the inside. Place spacers between door and plexiglass to leave room for air to move around glass trim as it could collect heat and melt. Get one of the door stops that fots in a hole in the floor and blocks the door from opening. Remove indoor trim and fill space between door frame and rough opening with good wood , may take some trimming . Remove all hinge screws and replace with screws that go at least 1.5 inches into rough framing . Also add same screws about every 6-8 inches around the frame , stagger so you won't set up the frame to split. The same can be done to windows. Also a dead bolt lock should be on door in middle near regular lock and one can be added to top of door. Fire ext are a good investment . Sand bags , poly , duct tape etc all come in handy. In some areas window covers are good.

Victor3 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:17:55 PM »

Quote from: SHOOTALL on February 24, 2011, 08:44:15 AM

...covered with plexiglass on the inside leaving the normal apperance on the out side. use vandal proof screws that come thru from the outside with washers and nuts on the inside.

I've done something similar to a couple of windows. Our house has updated windows but the previous owners left the original sash window in the detatched garage. It's in a place where somebody could easily break in and take stuff out without being seen.

I cut two lexan pieces and bolted them onto the inside of the frame from the outside with carriage bolts, then bolted the two sliding panels together so the window can't be opened (I'd never have a reason to open this window anyway). Not impossible to break into, but one would have to smash the whole thing in to do so. Other than the bolt heads it looks like any old window from the outside.

After my Dad passed I did something similar to the window in my Mom's back door. A piece of lexan covering the window so nobody can break the glass, reach in and open the door. I wanted to put a double-key deadbolt in but Mom said that was too much trouble to operate and she might misplace the key.

I have several large pieces of 1/2" thick lexan I got for free years ago. First order of business in any social unrest may be to use these to cover the windows in the house. I don't know how I'll sleep though; the largest one - needed to cover our living room window - is between the mattress and box spring of our bed (I have a bad back).

Cabin4 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:33:23 PM »

I take normal precautions. Lock the doors and widows. If they think they can come in here, let them try. It will be the last house they break into. I don't practice shooting at the range for nothing! Let then come in a get a instant pass to judgement day.

Spanky · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2011, 09:28:14 PM »

Sometimes it's just a matter of having the guts to stand up and defend it yourself. Some guys talk tough some guys are tough. Us military types have defended our country so defending our home is second nature.
The guys that talk tough but have never put their butts on the line don't really know the first thing about defending something. They'd be the ones to lose everything.

Spanky

Cabin4 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 26, 2011, 04:17:55 AM »

I don't think that military service means much of anything in the concept of home defense. If you don't own a civilian firearm and continue to practice and or if you have not continued to keep in good shape, you’re at a huge disadvantage. Many guys go into the military just to milk the system for the free stuff. They never took it to heart and only joined to serve themselves, not country. They are in terrible physical shape with a short time after leaving. Can't walk up a flight of stairs without gasping for breath. When they leave the service, it’s all left behind. I know of a few guys like this. They could not defend their home or family under any circumstance. Learn how to shoot a firearm your comfortable with and one that will be effective in your particular home scenario. Keep in shape and be willing to fight for your life and the life’s of your family. Be willing to take someone out with your hands and do things that mean you or them live. That’s what it takes. Not some illusion of historical military service as the only requirement. Criminals don’t care if you served in the military. If you’re not comfortable with the firearm scenario, then you better make an investment towards fortifying your premise both hard and soft measures.

blind ear · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:05:56 AM »

Be carefull of keyed deadbolts on doors. In a fire it is too confuseing. Firemen often fiind victims with the key in thier hand lying dead at the door. Use a turnbolt placed where it can't be accessed from the outside through a broken glass.

A "steel" door doesn't mean that it is a "bullet proof" door. ear

Spanky · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2011, 10:12:20 AM »

Quote from: blind ear on February 26, 2011, 07:05:56 AM

Be carefull of keyed deadbolts on doors. In a fire it is too confuseing. Firemen often fiind victims with the key in thier hand lying dead at the door. Use a turnbolt placed where it can't be accessed from the outside through a broken glass.

A "steel" door doesn't mean that it is a "bullet proof" door. ear

There are studies that show if a person is blindfolded (used to simulate smoke in the house) that they are likely to get disoriented in their own home and not be able to find a door or window to get out. Our local fire department shows videos and offers classes to educate folks on how to react in the case of fire in the home.

Spanky

Scibaer · « **Reply #23 on:** February 27, 2011, 03:46:18 PM »

i read threads like this and try to answer the OP question, but usually have a hard time. primarily because i believe that holding up or fortifying a dwelling is a misstep and bad idea. i do understand the necessity for it for some people. what i do think of when reading questions about home fortification is the prerequisite of having a basement. the basement would serve, if set up correctly as a last stand, safe room type of situation. i think back to the bomb shelter era, and would design my basement accordingly.
double set of floor joists, cement board flooring and a double set of steel doors should top the list, along with filtered air supply, redundant electricity and potable water supplies. i say it often, whether it be, survival or sustainability.. redundant systems and supplies is the only way to think, if you plan on living very long.
just my long winded two cents

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #24 on:** February 28, 2011, 02:01:15 AM »

Many forget that a hardened house is better protected when you are not home to defend it and your goodies .

Scibaer · « **Reply #25 on:** February 28, 2011, 05:46:38 AM »

Meaning, that a hardened home is better used as a secured location for warehousing you survival stockpile?..
I tend to agree, but think that old addage of "location, location" being utmost important in this case...

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #26 on:** February 28, 2011, 08:50:50 AM »

For sure a stock pile in a bad part of time won't last long.

Cabin4 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 28, 2011, 03:28:55 PM »

I keep about 4,000 to 5,000 rounds on hand at all times.

Squib · « **Reply #28 on:** March 01, 2011, 04:57:39 PM »

I live in missouri where tornados are semi-frequent, and as a kid was taught to go into basements. I find this to be retarded for many reasons, one is being drowned by leaking water pipes filling up my basement (while the sewers are backed up from flood waters possibly too), two is being electrocuted by wiring from my crushed AND wet house, three is fire above me that I cannot climb out of because my crushed house is burning on top of the basement, four the floors of the ground level will fail at some point to hold the weight of the house--- which is my ceiling when I'm in the basement. Being crushed, burnt, shocked or drowned isn't a good idea--- you better have a high dollar custom build if you want to do a basement for longterm sustainment.

I'm with cabin on the bug-out mentality. I get armed and move water/food/toilet paper/family to my best spot and stand guard. For me it is the stairs to my basement- no I don't trust the basement- but the stairway is basically a concrete hallway with minimal wiring and plumbing going through since it's an add-on over what was once an external access point to the basement, and no weight above my head to fall on me.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #29 on:** March 02, 2011, 01:08:50 AM »

Maybe they figured if the house was blown away in a wind storm...................