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Author Topic: Cold Blue not cutting it  (Read 1259 times)

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Offline swampgeek

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Cold Blue not cutting it
« on: February 16, 2011, 12:45:37 PM »
I bought a SxS muzzleloader shotgun recently, had been well worn and used with a decent amount of rust on and in the barrels. The original finish was obviously very degraded so I went ahead and stripped them to bare metal and polished prepping for cold blue. Results of the cold blue were less than spectacular and I can see this is not going to work as the barrels have not even been mounted back on the stock, much less fired and I am already losing the cold blue to normal wear and tear from cleaning procedures.

 All that being said, I am entertaining a clear coat like duracoat or possibly one of their bake on blues. Anyone have any experience with these products on barrels or metal in general? Reason for the clear would be the rest of the hardware is steel, if I could get a matte or slightly gray finish it would go great with the rest of the hardware. It is going to be a field gun so looks are not so much a factor as is protection.

Also I have found very little information on a bare metal finish using naval jelly. I am open to options here because my normal go to cold blue is not working out. And I dont want to brown, looking for a cheap way to get a quality finish that will protect the gun.
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Offline torpedoman

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2011, 01:30:03 PM »
I have noticed that cold blue works better if applies to metal that is almost hot. That said duracoat works great ,easy to apply,cheap compared to most others products.
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Offline Bigeasy

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2011, 02:43:32 PM »
I dont have any personal experience with the spray on type finishes, but from what I have read, it sounds like that may work for you.  One thing I would be careful of is heating the barrels if you use a bake on finish.  Most SXS barrels are soldered in place, and should not be subject to high heat.

Larry
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Offline skarke

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2011, 04:17:51 PM »
The new Duracoat type finishes are really amazing.  They fill minor blems, are widely respected for durability and rust prevention, and are pretty.  That said, Brownells sells a product that is called Oxpho Blue.  It has been around for quite a while, and it is a standard for hot water tank bluing.  If you follow the directions exactly, and if you do a GREAT job prepping, it'll produce a truly excellent finish that, while not as nice as bluing salts, will pop.  Plus, if you keep it well cared for, will continue to darken over time.

I did an old Lefevers many years ago.  It was my only experience with bluing, but the final product exceeded my expectations.  If you want it to be dark, don't sand your finish finer than 400, 320 is probably best.
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Offline swampgeek

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2011, 04:28:40 PM »
Quote from: Bigeasy on February 16, 2011, 02:43:32 PM
I dont have any personal experience with the spray on type finishes, but from what I have read, it sounds like that may work for you.  One thing I would be careful of is heating the barrels if you use a bake on finish.  Most SXS barrels are soldered in place, and should not be subject to high heat.

Larry

I have been looking at the solder all week while working on the barrels and would have completely ignored it until my barrels fell apart...hah thanks for reminding me!
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Offline skarke

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2011, 04:37:19 PM »
http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-113%20Bluing%20Booklet.pdf

Oxpho Blue instructions start on page 20.  One note, the folks at Brownells said 240 grit is max, 140 is their recommendation.
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Offline swampgeek

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2011, 09:43:49 PM »
Went ahead and ordered Duracoat in both gun blue and gloss black, plan to mix the two for a custom color finish. After a couple hours of research and looking at photos the gun blue alone is too much blue in bright light. Figure 1 part black to 2 parts blue mixture should do the trick. Will throw up a post and some pictures when I get in the product and get everything prepped and sprayed.

 Everything I have read and heard about duracoat has been fairly positive, seems time spent in part prep pays great dividends. I know it is not a traditional finish but I am trying to have my cake and eat it too.
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Offline skarke

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2011, 02:57:50 AM »
Don't melt your solder ;)
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Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn’t pass it on to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children what it was once like in the United States when men were free.  Ronaldus Maximus

Offline swampgeek

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2011, 05:55:30 AM »
Thats the nice thing about duracoat, its air cure. They do make a product called Durabake that obviously has to be heat cured.

 
Quote
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in 20 minutes, can be handled in 1 hour and is ready for use overnight. Although DuraCoat will gain most of its final hardness, elasticity and chemical resistance over a 2-3 week period, time will continue to enhance DuraCoat's characteristics over a lifetime.

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/


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Offline .22-5-40

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2011, 05:52:05 PM »
Hello, Swampgeek.  Since it's a muzzleloader..have you thought about browning?  There are some awfully good solutions out there..and they wear a lot better than blue..I think it would look real nice and traditional on a double percussion.  Best of luck!
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Offline swampgeek

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Re: Cold Blue not cutting it
« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2011, 02:01:26 PM »
I am not the biggest fan of the browned look, I know its a more traditional finish its just one of my quirks.

I did go back and read some of the communication I had with the previous owner, the barrels were actually never blued and left in the white. So I have been fighting almost 30 years worth of patina that looked a heck of alot like bluing. That being said it had some heavy stripping agents thrown at it and still came out how it did. The Duracoat should be in the middle of this coming week. I will post some pictures when I am done with that.
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