H&R .22 Premier

[Yogi59]

I just inherited a HR .22 Premier pearl grip with a 3 inch barrel.  It is blue steel and a 7 shot.  Anyone know how I might be able to find out it's age?  The serial number starts with an A58XXX. 
When I look at the serial number, it looks like the A is stamped over another 5, so it could possibly be A558XXX.  It belonged to my grandfather, then my uncle, then my brother.  I have copies of the license to purchase of it from both my uncle and brother.  The serial numbers are different. One has the one 5 and the other has both 5s.  I don't know how many numbers it's suppose to have all together.
Can anyone enlighten me on these issues?

[32 Magnum]

Yogi59,
You have a .22 rim-fire, other than that I'll need some other info to properly ID the piece in question.  There were at least three recognized "models" with several variations in each - each one was made within specific time frames.
If you post the barrel rib markings exactly as they appear on the gun, along with side of barrel markings (either side if present) exactly as they appear - I can help with determining model and variation and range of manufacture.  ALSO, break the action open, remove the cylinder and post the serial number found under the top strap - that will be the "real" s/n applied at the factory.

[Yogi59]

32 Magnum, thank you for replying.
The top of the barrel says Harrington&Richardson Arms Company on the top line.  The bottom line says WORCESTER MASS USA PAT.MAY14,'89 APR2.95 APR7,'96 (I put exactly as spelled and abbreviated).  The only other writing is on the left side of the barrel that says PREMIER 22 RIM FIRE.  There is no other writing on either side other than this. 
The number under the latch (as shown in your picture) says A58046.
Thanks again for your help.

[32 Magnum]

Yogi59 -
Your precise notation of the markings makes this much easier for me, I wish all the questions had this info.
Your PREMIER is a 2nd Model, 1st Variation and was made in 1905.  This was the first year that H&R produced the PREMIER capable of handling smokeless/Nitro based powder loads.  The left side barrel markings also provide proof of this change - previous black powder model did not have the left side marking of the model name and cartridge designation.
Your piece should have a small nub or "rod" in the center of the ejector star and a corresponding cut out in the standing breech.  This was one of the strengthening changes for smokeless that H&R came up with.
H&R offered this model with blued finish (scarce - standard was Nickel plated) and a factory option of mother-of-pearl grip panels.  If you remove the grip panels, if factory, you should see the last three digits (maybe 4) of the serial number either scratched into the back surface or written in with pencil.  If after market - should not have numbers.  Standard barrel length on this model was 3" and the standard chambering was .32 S&W (the short one) - with .22 rimfire chambering being found in far less numbers than the .32.  The actual serial number should be A58xxx - looks like somebody screwed up at the plant then corrected the number - 558xxx is way too high for this model and variation.
You don't mention condition - if in excellent/95% finish and everything works as intended, RETAIL value will be between $200 and $235 (national average, actual may vary depending upon your location) - value drops to around $150 to $160 in GOOD condition (85 to 90% an it works).  Nice item and somewhat collectible.
Pictured below is a 2nd Mode 2nd Variation made not too long after yours.

[32 Magnum]

For informational purposes, here's a picture of the "nub" or "post" H&R employed to strengthen lock-up of their hinged frame revolvers when they switched from black powder (up thru 1904) to smokeless (1905 and on) capable pieces.

[Yogi59]

Thank you again for your help. 
You are correct in the fact that there as a small nub in the center of the ejector star.
As far as the condition, it was in near perfect condition when I saw it 5 years ago, but when I got it from my brother a couple weeks ago, he had stored it in a damp leaky room.  It's condition now is some rust here and there which I have gotten most of it off, but some damage has been done as far as some initial pitting.  The cylinder is a little too loose (about a millimeter of play on both side) which I will have to take to a gunsmith and have tightened up if possible (otherwise I don't dare try to shoot it).  The trigger doesn't want to return all the way back after it has been pulled and needs to be manually pulled back into place, but it is workable.  I'm hoping a gunsmith can repair this as well. 
I have no idea as far as getting it re-blued or if it is even possible.  The inside of the barrel is clean and undamaged. 
I'm hoping to someday pass it down to my grandson telling him that it was originally owned by my grandfather who carried it to the bank with him when he made deposits.  The odd part of the story is that my grandfather was completely blind!
Thanks again for your help.  I very much appreciate your time!

[Yogi59]

The other side of it.

[32 Magnum]

Yogi,
You're welcome and thanks for thanking.
With the type of lock work in that gun - the cylinder lock is only fully engaged when the hammer is at "full cock."  At that point there should be very little 'wiggle' from side to side.
It sounds as though the hammer return spring has rusted through.  This is very commonly found on these older revolver.  This is a small 'V' spring that sits at the front on the trigger guard and bearns on the front lobe of the trigger.  Numrich (www.e-gunparts.com) has original factory replacement parts.

[Old No7]

Interesting post, and a nice old pistol... Too bad about that damp room too...

Jim, you wrote: "With the type of lock work in that gun - the cylinder lock is only fully engaged when the hammer is at 'full cock'.  At that point there should be very little 'wiggle' from side to side."

That 'wiggle' bothered me when I looked at my first H&R (an old Auto Ejecting in 32 S&W Long), but then the seller said "It works like a Colt...  While at full cock, pulling on the trigger puts more pressure on the hand and the action is locked nice and tight."  Then he proceeded to show me, and sure enough, if you dropped the hammer and kept the trigger held back tight, the amount of play was greatly reduced.

You can remove the cylinder and see this too...  With the cylinder out and the hammer cocked, the hand will be in X position; then when the trigger is pulled, on 2 of mine, the hand visibly raises up/forward maybe 1/32" or so.

Anyway, I was curious if you concur with this observation as well.

I do appreciate you sharing your expertise about these fine old handguns, and FWIW, I was sorry to hear about Bill Goforth's passing; I understand he was quite knowledgeable about these too.

Tight groups.

Old No7

[32 Magnum]

Old,
MOST of the H&R's noted and questioned on the forums are pretty well beaten-up.  MOST exhibit a bit of end shake and/or cylinder side-to-side wobble, due to wear.  Few folks get to actually experience what you describe - the solid lock-up when the action is fully engaged - similar to the lock-up on the Colt revolvers which has been described as "welded to the frame."
So, in other words - I concur.
I own three old top breaks that are NIB (one from 1889) and have experienced that solid lock-up.  Since the hand is directly attached to the hammer strut/sear lever it certainly does, through the geometry of the parts, place more upward pressure on the ratchet when the trigger is pulled fully through it's arc.