.218 bee case forming

[tobster]

A .218 bee followed me home and now I have the problem of ammunition. Since ammo and brass seem really scarce, I'll probably end up dipping into my stash of 32-20 brass. I've read it's a two step forming process and see that redding makes form dies. What's the difference between a forming die and a regular full -length loading die? Would a 25-20 loading die work just as well as a form die to go from 32-20 to 25-20? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

[mbopp]

Necking a .32 to a .22 may result in the neck being too thick, you may have to turn or ream it.
IIRR Winchester only makes a run on the old brass once a year. I see one item on GB now but it's more than I'd be willing to pay.
30 years ago I has a Bee in the 10" octagon barrel. I traded it for a 357 Herrett 14". Wouldn't you know I found a NIB 14" Bee barrel last year, and I still had my dies and brass left over from the first time around. I-4198 pushing a 45gr bullet nets me well under an inch at 100 yards and I'm no benchrest shooter. Actually it's the barrel in my avatar.

[Reed1911]

What's the difference between a forming die and a regular full -length loading die

A forming die is not threaded for the expander/decapper it is also cut to a specific length so you can use it as a trim die with a file (hardened to prevent damage from a file) they also, when in steps, are set up more or less to allow the maximum neck reduction and shoulder setback with minimum loss. FWIW if you have a 25-20 die and a .32-20 die, all you need is a .218 die. Run it all the way into the 32-20 SEAT die to round the mouth and taper it slightly, run into the FL .25-20 with the stem removed, then into the .218 SEAT die and then into the .218 size die. You can skip the .218 Seat step but you'll see case loss and a few wrinkles, the neck should be right at or slightly under as the neck on most .32-20 is VERY thin.