Author Topic: Annealing  (Read 816 times)

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Offline Buckskin

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Annealing
« on: February 28, 2011, 09:50:54 AM »
I guess because I'm chasing the elusive one hole group and wouldn't mind my brass lasting longer, I'm considering trying the annealing thing.  Read a lot about it, seen all the different methods, not going to spend $400 on an automated machine.  Probably just use a drill and something to hold the brass, might spring for the Hornady kit.  Not sure if I should use the tempilac or just watch for color change. I'm not going to mess with pistol brass as I can get it pretty cheap in 40 and 44 mag.  As of right now the rifles I reload for are the 204, 223, 7mm-08 and 300 RUM.

I do have a pile of reject brass that I could experiment on.

How many of you guys anneal your brass?  Is it worth the effort?  Do you see a benefit?  Do you use the tempilac? How often do you anneal?  Does it depend on the caliber? I don't run max loads but a couple of my calibers are pretty hot by design.  I also neck size with Lee Collet dies for the 204 and am testing with the 300 RUM.
Buckskin

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Offline Grumulkin

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Re: Annealing
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2011, 01:44:42 PM »
Annealing is more for improving case life rather than improving accuracy.  Personally, until recently I never thought annealing was worth the trouble and I would probably never do it for the cartridges you mention.  Recently I bought some supposedly 378 Weatherby Magnum brass that someone had resized to 30-378 Weatherby Magnum.  Considering the price I got them for and the cost of 378 Weatherby Magnum brass, resizing will be worth it and with all that working of the brass, I'll have to anneal.  There is a case holder and drill attachment available from Lee Precision and I have the Tempilac for when I get started.  From what I've read, once you're used to doing it, you don't need the Tempilac.

Offline necchi

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Re: Annealing
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2011, 06:48:18 PM »
This git's kicked around alot, there's ton's of advice and video's out there,
 There is a learning curve, I trashed a bunch 308 cases trying different ways and doing it wrong. I'd suggest finding a bunch of range pick-up or scrap brass to experiment with. I found Varmint Al's method and advice the best for me;
http://www.varmintal.net/arelo.htm#Anneal
 Tried the tempilac stick and it didn't work well, you really can't get enough of the wax/stick on there to see it change, folks say the liquid works better.
 I wait for the dull red in a dark room and it works once you get the hang of it. Then look for the blue tints when finished for consistency. I guess the best advice I found was the blue colored neck should still shine, if it's lost it's shine you've gone too hot.
* clean/tumble the brass
* anneal
* dipping in water or air drying makes no differance, brass does not quench temper like steel.
* then size

 For me it's about neck tention and brass life, needs done after 3-4 firings. I can "feel" the button pulling hard through the neck and you can do the pliers test to the neck and find they are indeed getting "harder".
found elsewhere