Author Topic: new arrows (Read 977 times)

b44mag · « **on:** March 01, 2011, 11:15:26 AM »

so i just got back from the buck stops here sporting shop gary is the man . but any way he spent some time with me teaching me some stuff . well worth the ride over there very nice guy and great customer service he gets a A+ in my book . i bought 6 55/75 carbon gold tip expedition hunter apg camo arrows with 2 yellow 1 white feather 125 gr. target points 32 1/2 from inside the knock to back of insert full length out of the box

woooo im happy shot for about 45 minutes from 10,15 and 20 yards hit the bag every time. started to get a group but my arm got tired so i quit for the day tomorrows another day . i come to find out that my flemish string is a b-50 fast flight and he says its the right string and wont hurt the bow at all . hope hes right the place i got the string from did not say it was a flemish fast flight just a flemish recurve string.
but gary says it is and i guess he should know i dont . he did say we will put a piece of material between the string and the limbs and now that im typing this we both forgot he has a screen set up with video when i go down ill get him to put the stuff on the bow. the arrows fly nice and straight 6 bucks a piece 36.00 out the door thought it was ok deal. last carbons i bought for the 35# fiberglass camp bow were st epic 600 3 for 26.50 i got ripped never going to that guy again for sure. still want a few wooden arrows with big feathers

just like how they look and feel.
b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 01, 2011, 11:34:48 AM »

Thats not to bad for gold tips. Really not to happy with the gold tips since they moved to Mexico, their quality went south with there product, still good arrows though. The St epics are a little better arrow, thats why they cost more. Honestly though I got about the same groups with Bemans as I did with st axis. Last thing the b-50 the type of string that the bow string is made of, fast flight was ok for stick bows, but some wheely bows, especially the ones with actual cables and the tear drops had a tendency to pop the tear drops off of the cables with fast flight.

b44mag · « **Reply #2 on:** March 01, 2011, 12:04:56 PM »

glad to here the string is ok. on the arrows they look good and seem to fly good also. im happy with them so far. im not trying to shoot Xs. im just happy to be able to get to full draw and get a good anchor point figured out.
hitting the bag target every time was enough for me today

. this is my first rodeo and will learn as i go. but today was a great learning experience and i think i got a c+ on the test

. from 10,15 and 20 yards . im still not doing it right every time but at least i know what im doing wrong now. im not setting the same anchor everytime im snap shooting also. i will work on settling in everytime but even with the bad habits i shot pretty good. i even hit the middle a few times. the last 6 arrows i shot were around a 12 inch group at 15 yards .
not bad he said he was surprised i shot that good to start with . so was i

b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 01, 2011, 12:16:53 PM »

ya don't get me wrong, gold tips are still very good arrows. learning to shoot a stick and string is one of the hardest things to learn to shoot. I don't hunt land animals with mine, I use it for bowfishing, but I do take it out from time to time and play around, and at 20 yards with alums I don't think I have accomplished anything under 16 in. or so. Nows the time to practice practice pratice, but don't over practice, and if you notice yourself starting to do thing wrong set the bow down and walk away for a couple hours or days, its easy to fall into a bad habit, but extremely hard to get over that habit once it second nature.

b44mag · « **Reply #4 on:** March 01, 2011, 01:11:29 PM »

yep thats where im at second nature with bad habits . going to be hard to break . im in no hurry and not going to hunt with it until i am putting 3 in a pie plate every time at the desired yardage and not taking a shot past that . no need to go wounding the few deer we have left . i think if i shoot a few every day or so i should be ok by hunting season and if im not im not going with the bow. the guy at the archery shop has a video screen that you shoot at deer and other animals . i think that will be fun once i get a lil better i guess you put these flat metal tips on your arrows to shoot at the screen . he had them in little bins marked 85 100 and 125s.
b44mag

Swampman · « **Reply #5 on:** March 01, 2011, 01:12:36 PM »

I like Goldtips they are great arrows. Let's see some pics.

b44mag · « **Reply #6 on:** March 01, 2011, 08:08:47 PM »

i like them too swampman. i have to wait to see if i win a bid on ebay for some 2117s. if i dont ill be back down to pick up 4 more . thinking of trying flu flu feathers on a few of these carbons . what do you guys think of that idea ? . i need a quiver for hunting. this old one works good for target and holds extra stuff. i have a kwiki clamp on but dont like it and dont have a broad head cover so i put it on the 35# camp bow. fits that bow ok . and holds the st epic 600s good . any suggestions on a decent on the bow quiver. something that wont mess the bow up. or a hip quiver . that wont break the bank

b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2011, 09:05:04 PM »

I would shy away from the flu-flus, unless you have the intention to go out and try and pop a few tree rats or even birds a wing, but if you was gonna do that I would find some cheap cheap arrows. I remember at one time there was a post over on acherytalk.com about a fellow that had gotten a hold of a certain type of dowel rod at a hardware store, and he would make cheap "beat around" arrows, I was gonna make some at one time but never got around to it.

b44mag · « **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2011, 07:05:43 AM »

im thinking about the flu flus for playing around and maybe pheasant hunting . if i get good enough

. going for a walk in the woods stump shooting . i like the fact that they dont fly real far maybe some styrofoam areial targets for fun . they say toughest arrows right on the shaft

i wonder

. the wooden cajun fluflus are fun but they were more than 6 bucks a piece with shipping so i guess if i bust up a carbon enjoying this bow thing so be it they make new arrows everyday

. was looking at recurve quivers wow did not relize that they were around 100 bucks for a decent leather one the search begins

for a good deal on one they are very nice looking
i saw bear spring arm quivers for around 50 but dont like them. so ill keep trolling around till i find a great deal on . im looking for something like this i like the way this one looks . or the same kind that you slip on but wow 100 bucks not to sure about that price

b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2011, 11:02:11 AM »

I would go with a good hip quiver over a riser mounted on for a stick bow. Not really very good for opinion on quivers as I don't use one other than my back quiver, but I don't hunt with the recurve. Also I wouldn't buy pre-made flu flus. Just buy ya some full length feathers and cut em down, I cut mine to 3.5 in 6 to an arrow and they slowed down pretty quick even out of the compound, there is also another way that you bascially spiral a full length feather around the shaft, use 2 or 3 and you can get some really pretty flu-flus.

b44mag · « **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2011, 12:03:54 PM »

i watched a few vids on youtube on the spiral flu flus very nice and easy to make was looking at the full length feathers and the guy in the vid says to get the flu flu ground feathers instead just the full lenght they are half the price and wrap better on the arrow lots of how to vids on youtube. i was looking at back quivers also very pricey but very nice in 6' 4" 280 so i need a biggin for sure and with the long arrows wonder how much of a pain to get them out of it. think the hip style will be the one i end up with unless i find a really good deal on a on the bow leather one. i seen a hip quiver 6 arrow camo one for 40 bucks arrows clip in and has a broadhead pocket.
b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:18:39 PM »

Ya I shoot 29" and they can be a pain to get out at times if you grad up by the nock, the one I have is really just for field points or blunts not really broadheads. Not really sure on the ground flu-flu's, when I did mine they had the full length feathers in the archery dept of the localish gander mountain for like 9 bucks a dozen 12in. feathers, ended up with 3 flu-flus and some sheild cut feathers for other arrows, ended up with 3 3.5in flu-flu's per feather. I do remember trying the sprials with the full length feathers, and the thickness of the quill made 'em kind of hard to bend around the shaft, especially on my carbons, which should be about the same diameter of your gold tips. Either way you do it works great, I personally like the "straight" type over the spiral, but I also used all solid white, if you did it will various colours of feathers, the spiral would look better.

b44mag · « **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:59:40 PM »

i like the flu flu arrows . i dont know why but i do . im thinking if i end up with the 2117 i had my buddy bid on im going to see if they fly ok if they do. im having the guy at the shop make 7 flu flus out of them.

.
they are 33 1/4 full length.
b44mag

bigbird09 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2011, 05:21:36 PM »

I'd just do them yourself, although I will say that aluminum is a little harder to fletch on, some say carbon are, I've yet to have a vane or feather pull from a carbon. Flu-flus are nice becuase you can guess, especially if you end up going the spiral route. Just get you some good alcohol, like the 90% stuff in the pharmacy area at wally, and a tube of super glue, I usually use the gel stuff, but its a bit more expensive. Most of your "name-brand" fletching glues are cynocrylates, which is basically super glue. Also it helps to take some really fine sand paper, or even steel wool to rough up surface of the aluminum a touch to help with adhesion.