trimming straight-wall handgun cases ?

[Blackhawker]

One thing I forgot to mention in my above post from yesterday:

I always lube my cases before resizing them, even if I'm using carbide dies.  The brass moves through the die much more smoothly than when dry and requires little force to push it in and/or withdraw it.  Dry brass often takes a LOT of energy to withdraw from a die, carbide die or not.  Consequently, with lubed cases, there should be no excessive force on the brass that would cause any possible stretching.  This might be an added reason why my fired brass doesn't require additional trimming after it has been fired more than once.

Again, this is only an observation so don't take it as the rule.

[SHOOTALL]

I trim I don't check them . I use a lee hand tool in a batt drill ( only lee tool I use) . I do it every time , some cases the tool removes alot others little. I do it because when shooting IMHSA if you didn't you were taking a chance on the long range targets. If you profile crimp , which I found to give best accuracy with both 357 super mag and 44 mag you need to start with all cases the same length . If you don't you will string shots in a vertical pattern . At 150-200 meters that can be a miss.

[Blackhawker]

I trim I don't check them . I use a lee hand tool in a batt drill ( only lee tool I use) . I do it every time , some cases the tool removes alot others little. I do it because when shooting IMHSA if you didn't you were taking a chance on the long range targets. If you profile crimp , which I found to give best accuracy with both 357 super mag and 44 mag you need to start with all cases the same length . If you don't you will string shots in a vertical pattern . At 150-200 meters that can be a miss.

I use the same trimmers too.  Just was using a new .454 trimmer last night as a matter of fact!  They're never the exact length as the literature states but they're close enough and the brass is always consistent in length.