Author Topic: Trigger Work  (Read 447 times)

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Offline Strikenmike

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Trigger Work
« on: March 17, 2011, 05:54:07 AM »
I plan to do some trigger work on a new SB1 receiver that I bought for my ultra slug barrel.  First of all, let me say that my old slug barrel is a perfect fit on this new receiver.  I can't believe my luck on that one.  I have read through everything I can find on the sight about the subject of trigger work and still have a question.

Excluding the most forward pin that the barrel hooks onto, the pictures I find in the "how-to" sections all show the left side of the receiver and 4 (3/16) pins and one smaller one just above the forward trigger guard support.  However, on the right side of the receiver there is another larger pin that sits on top of the smallest diameter pin that does not go all the way through.

What is that large pin called, and how does it come out?  Please advise.  If there is something on the site that explains this, just give me some direction.  I just do not want to start driving out pins with having complete confidence that I know what I am doing.....ya right.

Thanks,
Tight Lines and Ten Rings

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Trigger Work
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2011, 06:45:53 AM »
It's not a pin, it's a plug for the viewport for checking latch engagement, they started using them in 2006, there's a link in the FAQs on it, it's only removable with the trigger group removed and then only with special tooling.

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline Strikenmike

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Re: Trigger Work
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2011, 07:14:01 AM »
Thank you kind sir.  Once again, you saved me a lot of aggravation.
Tight Lines and Ten Rings

Offline gcrank1

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Re: Trigger Work
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2011, 07:46:25 AM »
You dont have to take out all the pins to get into the hammer/sear.
The best punches have a 'cupped' end for these domed pins.
All pins are splined on the left side, drive out right to left.
Drop the bottom two, a large and the small to remove the trigger group.
Unhook the hammer spring from within the frame.
Drop the hammer pivot to remove hammer
I suggest no more than a few light strokes with a very fine stone, in the direction of movement and a thin application of the old 'Gunslick' or automotive 'anti-seize' compound to the sear tip and hammer notch.
"Halt while I adjust my accoutrements!"
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