Locking lugs problems

[quicksdraw45]

I did a search and didnt find what I was after .
I have 2 contender frames one is a early model and the other is brand new that is a dealers old stock but is a easy open model and not a g-2
I have 6 barrels , All 6 work ok on the old frame .
4 work ok on the new frame , I started looking closely at the 2 that dont work on the new frame and found 1 had a solid locking lug , Should I switch it to the split style ?
The other is a new barrel and  has the split stlye but one side is fractured ,This was a manufactureing defect and may have been finished off by me .
Is changing the locking lug as easy as drifting out the roll pin close to the locking lug ?
Were is the easyest place to get these ?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

[myronman3]

i tried to dift out the roll pin on one of mine once and that stubborn thing really liked where it was at and didnt want to leave for nothing.   before monkeying it up i abandoned that idea and went with plan b.   it could have been that particular barrel (the exception rather than the rule), but my experience with it was that i wouldnt want to try it again.   if you proceed, go slow, use the right tools and have some patience.

[contender85]

Most definately switch to the two piece lugs.........yes thats all there is to it, drive out the retainig pin, push the new lug in and hold in place and drive the pin back in.......the easiest place to get them is from Thompson Center, let them know about the broken one and they should replace it free.
Mark

[rickyp]

use the right  drift pin punch and do not foreget that there is a sprinf in with the lugs. with the split lugs you have a 2 pice lug, a cross pin that sits under the lugs and have a spring behind everything the drift pin holds everything in place. with the right tools it is  a 5 min. job

if you are having troubles and suspect the locking lugs are the cause then try and switching them with ones you know that works.

[Lone Star]

The correct terms are barrel bolts, parts 23R and 23L if you order them from T/C.  They are cheap and there is no good reason to be using a one-piece bolt these days.  What others have failed to suggest is to replace the spring too!  The new spring will  push the bolts deeper into the frame for better lockup.  And remember, DO NOT lubricate the bolts, run them dry!!! Here is what T/C says in their Owners Manual: "Never use any oils or grease on any internal parts."  A lot of action problems can be traced to the use of oil on the bolts and other internal parts.  Don't do it!  :evil:

The correct-sized drift is necessary, and it is also a good idea to clamp the barrel lug in a vice.  This way you have better control of the drift and hammer, and you can better catch the bolts, roller and spring when they all come flying out.....  :-D