Author Topic: Help for Low Skill Woodworker Buying Saw? (Read 1666 times)

bobelk99 · « **on:** March 31, 2011, 03:43:39 PM »

I am brand new to this forum. All my previous posts have been in firearm related areas.

I am not a woodworker, but have to work some with wood. Most of the work is restoration/repair of barns on my property. Retired to become a farmer

I need to buy a decent table saw. The economy one I had died due to overwork.

I would appreciate comments on pros/cons of your choice if you were about to make a purchase.
Portability is not an issue, and I have a good stand.

Most of the work to be done is ripping. Some of the wood is tough, some even too tough to saw.
I don't use a table saw a lot, but will rip maybe 1500 linear feet for the current project.

I don't want to spend more than necessary, but need a saw that will stand up to some punishment.

About the cheapest thing I have seen is the Porter Cable at Lowes at 299. 5 years ago I would have jumped on the Porter Cable, but since B&D bought them, I am a little leary.

Any input appreciated.

Flynmoose · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2011, 06:36:22 PM »

I would look for a used, not abused, cast iron tablesaw. The blade is very important,
a thin kref carbide tipped blade is best. The thin kerf moves less wood and takes less
power for the same cut. Another thing is that it will take less effort when pushing,
lessening a chance of a "slip" that you will not want to experience. Good luck with
your search and project!
FM

Drilling Man · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2011, 06:01:11 AM »

Here's a vote for a used Unisaw, you should beable to find a good one for 4 to $500.00 and if it's in good shape, it will last you the rest of your life!

Any decent saw will require 220V to run it, do you have 220V available?

DM

bobelk99 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 01, 2011, 12:42:58 PM »

I appreciate input. The more I learn the 'behinder' I get.

I intentionally live in the boonies, but we can get 220 ok if needed.

I have been a trader all my life, but have no idea where to start as far as searching for a used saw. I do have a old (as in very old) friend who has offered to look at any saw I might find. Sort of like having a mechanic look at a used car before I buy.

I have raised my new saw sights to a Bosch 4100-09. That may be as far as I am willing to go $ wise.
Selection is based on marketing ads, like from Lowes or Home Depot. I have not the foggiest what private brands would compare to the Bosch.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #4 on:** April 01, 2011, 12:58:31 PM »

This is quite hard to answer, as i have been through all the cheapo saws to get to my two Unisaws. A Unisaw makes you want to throw rocks at the cheapo saws. lol

For a used saw, look in your papers forsale adds, OR on line, Craigs List is another good way...

As for saws, TOP of List would be an older UNISAW! Next down would be a new Unisaw or Unisaw copy from Grizzly. Next down would be a "top of the line" (like the Bosch you mentioned) new saw from Lows/Home Depot/Menards, with them it's buy what you like. They are all light duty noisy table saws, that will get the job done for quite a while, just not a life time saw like a Unisaw.

DM

GRIMJIM · « **Reply #5 on:** April 01, 2011, 01:14:59 PM »

I've been a cabinetmaker for many years and have to agree with what's been said. If you can you'd be better off buying a used Delta unisaw or even a Powermatic. You will never have to buy another one, they will both cut almost anything you can push through them, straighter and better than any saw you will find at a home depot or lowes kind of store. That way also if you decide to take on any woodworking projects in the future you will have a very good cabinet shop grade saw on which to do them.

Dirt Bag · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2011, 01:30:14 PM »

What they said...... Delta Unisaw. Solid, heavy, and will hold your settings. Lot to be said for the contractors saw too, with the Uni fence on it, but once you use a big cast iron cabinet saw with a Forrest blade, it will spoil you. And as far as I know, they still say "Made in USA" on them.
These guys know where of they speak.
Good Luck;
D.B.

AtlLaw · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2011, 06:28:51 PM »

HOLY MACKLE DARE ANDY!!!!

I just googled Delta Unisaw! Did you see the price on dem thangs!?

bobg · « **Reply #8 on:** April 02, 2011, 01:21:43 AM »

I had a Delta that looks a lot like the Unisaw but i don't think it was. Sure did one heck of a lot of work with it. Paid $6oo for it about 20 years ago. At one time i had a 20 x 24 foot work shop. All of my tools were Delta. No longer live there and my son in law is now the owner of my table saw. What few tools i have left are still Delta. Don't think you can go wrong with Delta.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #9 on:** April 02, 2011, 04:35:21 AM »

Quote from: AtlLaw on April 01, 2011, 06:28:51 PM

HOLY MACKLE DARE ANDY!!!! I just googled Delta Unisaw! Did you see the price on dem thangs!?

Ya gotta keep yer eyes open! I bought my second one used for a hundred bucks, and it works perfectly! It's old, but it looks good, and did i mention it works "perfectly"?

DM

Dirt Bag · « **Reply #10 on:** April 02, 2011, 12:18:40 PM »

Several years ago now,one of the local high schools decided that they would no longer have a shop class and woodworking -- not enough intersest, liability etc.... The shop was to become a wieght room for the football team we heard. So.... all the '60s and 70s Delta equipment was cut loose from their breaker boxes and dragged into a line, and numbered to be sold by sealed bid. All of it was the good old cast iron American made stuff. And all big machines. And yes there was a Unisaw....Can't say for sure, but I think it was a 12 incher. Anyway, my brother went in there and put a bid of $123.45 in a envolope for the lathe. He got it.... and here's the sad part. It was the only piece that sold for over a hundred bucks. He also bought up all the Stanley planes. Some of them had never been used. I bought the lathe from him and used it a few times and even though it's rusty, it runs fine. Will clean it up one of these days. A guy could have put together one hell of a shop that time for about a grand.

Would hate to think what one of these would cost new. And it came with a see through guard that covers the whole bed. Not to get off topic too much, but I got to wonder just how many small schools have done the same thing. Damn shame... no more woodworking classes.
D.B.

bobelk99 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 02, 2011, 12:32:51 PM »

Seems to me that most of the classes now taught are 'business' classes, teaching not how to work, but how to have a job where the goal is to get money someone else has worked for, without actually doing any work: aka Wall Street etc.

Guess I am just jealous.

Just bought a 30 year old property that has 3000 feet under dry roof with sound structure, and only 1 room is completely finished. Should be enough hobby work to last a good while $:-\$ .

Zulu · « **Reply #12 on:** April 03, 2011, 02:22:09 PM »

Delta Unisaw!!!
Nuff said!
Zulu

mechanic · « **Reply #13 on:** April 03, 2011, 02:28:44 PM »

Depending on what you will be cutting or ripping, I have a setup with a radial arm saw, and a table with roller on it before and after the saw. It's easier to used with one man. Just turn the blade 90degrees, slide it out the proper distance and lock it, then push the work through. With a 12" blade and a 7 hp motor I've never slowed it down even with aged white oak. There are some things a table saw will do that this won't but not that many.

Ben

Drilling Man · « **Reply #14 on:** April 03, 2011, 03:24:32 PM »

A radialarm saw does only a few things well, most radialsaws are hard to keep in tune so they will cut accurate. Anything with a HONEST 7 hp motor will be 220V only, (or more) and draw at least 35amps on 220V. That's a LOT of juice, and many home shops would have no where near the wireing to handle a load like that.

What does the name plate on your saw say the amount of amps it draws?

A tablesaw is just so much more versatile!

DM

mechanic · « **Reply #15 on:** April 03, 2011, 05:16:51 PM »

I had to wire a 50 amp disconnect with a motor starter. This is an ancient old saw that came from a mill shop here years ago. My Dad wound up with it but never used it. It does well for me. I'm not a pro so it get used only for my stuff. I've used it to make small lumber from big lumber, and to cut stove wood with. It mostly takes up space.

Ben

Doug B. · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2011, 12:30:11 AM »

I bought a Delta Contractors saw about 15 years ago and it works great. It is a 10" saw, no unifence but a decent fence non the less, and I can operate the full 1 1/2 HP motor (develops 3 HP) on either 120 or 240 volts. I am not a cabinet maker and this saw does everything I need it to do. I wish Delta still made the tools they used to. One Delta tool I have, a 8" jointer, I judge to be 50-60 years old and it is a heavy beast! This tool is actually a Milwaukee Delta or Delta Milwaukee, one of those.

Keep your eyes on the classifieds.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2011, 06:09:27 AM »

There ARE some good deals on OLD tools around. Like mechanic, i have an OLD industrial saw too, except mines a tablesaw. It's a Huss, made in Grand Haven Michigan, and it's a brute of a saw!! Here i am bringging it home,

I had to unbolt the stock feeder and wing extension to get it in my shop! The saw top alone is about 4 feet square! After a "cleanup" it's an amazing saw, but of course too big for the average woodworker, but who could turn down the price of FREE??!!

DM

Doug B. · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2011, 06:22:33 AM »

Quote from: Drilling Man on April 04, 2011, 06:09:27 AM

After a "cleanup" it's an amazing saw, but of course too big for the average woodworker, but who could turn down the price of FREE??!!

DM

That might be my favorite price!

cange · « **Reply #19 on:** April 12, 2011, 05:11:33 PM »

I agree on the used version of a cast iron saw...delta or powermatic...ive owned a delta for over 2o yrs now....you cant beat it....you could also look into a contractors style saw....iron top, metal base and somewhat portable...decent power available....i would now buy a new saw... not the quqlity you can find used......good luck

bobelk99 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 12, 2011, 06:05:13 PM »

Guys: I appreciate all your help.

I have learned a lot just by researching your suggestions and views.

torpedoman · « **Reply #21 on:** April 13, 2011, 08:27:51 AM »

the FENCE is the most important thing on a saw blades you replace regularly and just how much smarts does it take to make a blade rotate? The fence is were you make most of the real critical adjustments and they have to be correct and the fence needs to stay where you put it and be parallel to the blade.