Author Topic: Lubing cases  (Read 1511 times)

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Offline ipyrek

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Lubing cases
« on: April 09, 2011, 02:51:20 PM »
I've been reloading straight walled cartridges with a carbide sizer die for awhile with no lube and that is Ok. I'm getting ready to start reloading for 30-30, just got a used Lee die set, the sizer die doesn't look to be carbide and I assume I will have to lube for these. Does anyone make a carbide sizer die for 30-30 ? So I won't have to lube ?
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Offline hillbill

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2011, 03:01:48 PM »
ive not heard of carbide resizers for bottle neck cartrigdes. im kinda old school so i dont know.i usually roll my bottle neck shells on a old sock seasoned with marvel mystrey oil. its been workin for me.

Offline Grumulkin

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2011, 03:48:57 PM »
There are no carbide dies for bottle necked cases so you'll have to lube.

Marvel Mystery Oil eh.  I have some of that.  Maybe I'll try it if I can't get Imperial Sizing Wax sometime.

Offline deerandduck

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2011, 04:21:25 PM »
I second the use of imperial sizing wax.  Get a tin, it will last a LONG time, thousands of rounds.  A mere touch of a finger then around the case and you're good to go.  Not messy and comes off easily when you tumble it.  I use an inside neck lube(powder) with a brush and then the imperial.
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Offline Catfish

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2011, 05:16:54 PM »
You can get carbide dies in 223 and 308, if you have alot of money to spend, but I believe that`s all. I use alot of vasline for lube, any grease will work. If your going to neck size only you can just use mica or graphite on the necks.

Offline hornady

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2011, 04:34:34 AM »
The 3030 is one of those rounds that you must be  particularly careful how much lube you use on them, some cases will be a little more forgiving than others.
The imperial sizing wax would be your best bet being new to bottleneck cases.
Most guys either start out with an old inkpad or the lube pads made by reloading companies and commercial case lube.
The trick with conventional case lube, don’t over do it, too little and you have a stuck case, too much and you have dents in the case neck.
If wanting to get buy on the cheap. I roll all my cases on a lube pad with the clear wire glide you buy in the Electrical section at Lowe’s or Home Depot, a quart of it is about $10.00 and will last you a lifetime.
The spray on lubes I have heard as much good as bad, I have never used it. what ever lube you go with, wipe the lube off the cases before you fire them.
 


Offline Siskiyou

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2011, 06:29:55 AM »
Imperial Sizing lube is good.  Have to admit that for years I used STP, works great.  Have to wipe it off the cases.  Whatever lube I use I normally run the cases in the Tumbler after resizing now days.

I have been reloading for a Marlin 30-30 for over forty years with a set of Lyman All-American dies.  I have added a Lee Factory Crimp Die a few years back.  I never had an issue with the roll crimp the Lyman bullet seating die made, I just wanted to try it and like it.  The 30-30 case is one that I have seen a few bullets pushed back in.  I have seen push back in the 30-30 and 32 Special factory rounds.  These were rounds that had been loaded in Winchester 94’s and Marlin 336.  It is not the design of the case but the rifle.  I have never seen an occurrence with the .303 Savage round.  Most likely because of the rotary magazine found in the Savage 95/99 rifles.

The 30-30 is one of the more economical rounds to reload I can expect close to 200 rounds from a pound of powder; I will be lucky to get 120 rounds out of a pound for the 270 Winchester, or the 30-06. 

I am not aware of a carbide die for the 30-30.
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Offline GH1

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2011, 08:57:40 AM »
I bought some Hornady One Shot for my .45-70 loads, but I've yet to try it. I did use it on my carbide .357 dies though, and the reduction in effort required when sizing was amazing. I plan on using it for everything from here on out. It's easy to apply, not at all messy, and won't foul powder.
I really like it.
GH1 :)
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Offline Tom W.

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2011, 09:13:54 AM »
You can get carbide dies in 223 and 308, if you have alot of money to spend, but I believe that`s all. I use alot of vasline for lube, any grease will work. If your going to neck size only you can just use mica or graphite on the necks.





Even with those dies you'll need to lube, as per the instructions with the dies. The Imperial sizing die wax is the way to go, but someone said that Sno-Seal is prettymuch the same stuff. I dunno about that, but I have a tin of the Imperial that I bought years ago, and there's still enough to last for several more years.
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Offline Grumulkin

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2011, 10:30:43 AM »
I bought some Hornady One Shot for my .45-70 loads, but I've yet to try it. I did use it on my carbide .357 dies though, and the reduction in effort required when sizing was amazing. I plan on using it for everything from here on out. It's easy to apply, not at all messy, and won't foul powder.
I really like it.
GH1 :)

I've used it.  The key is to do your sizing while it's still wet.  For bottlenecked cases, I hold a bunch in my hand and spray down into the case mouths and around the shoulders.  If you let it dry before sizing, you'll probably get a stuck case.  When I use the can I have, I'll probably not buy any more.

Offline carbineman

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #10 on: April 10, 2011, 12:36:43 PM »
I bought some Hornady One Shot for my .45-70 loads, but I've yet to try it. I did use it on my carbide .357 dies though, and the reduction in effort required when sizing was amazing. I plan on using it for everything from here on out. It's easy to apply, not at all messy, and won't foul powder.
I really like it.
GH1 :)



I've used it.  The key is to do your sizing while it's still wet.  For bottlenecked cases, I hold a bunch in my hand and spray down into the case mouths and around the shoulders.  If you let it dry before sizing, you'll probably get a stuck case.  When I use the can I have, I'll probably not buy any more.

All I use is Hornady One Shot. Shake VERY VERY Well spray from four sides with cases in case loading block, allow to dry for a couple of minutes, give the die a shot in the bottom and resize. Heard lots of horror stories but for me never a problem. But there is a first time probably coming but knock on my wood reloading bench, No problems yet and have been using this stuff from the first time I've seen it for sale.

Offline LaOtto222

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2011, 01:09:15 PM »
Looks like I am in the minority. I use a pad and RCBS Case Lube II. The trick is to not use very much. I roll 5 - 10 cases on the pad at a time. I also lube the inside of the necks. I use it for resizing, but also when reforming cases too. After resizing or reforming, I swish them around in warm water, drain then lay them out on an old towel to dry. I can even do Hornet cases with out denting. Good Luck and Good Shooting
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Offline rdmallory

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #12 on: April 14, 2011, 11:42:17 AM »
imperial sizing wax

Just a dab on your fingers when picking up the cases then then re-dap on every other case.

Doug

Offline MNSHOOTER

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #13 on: April 16, 2011, 05:22:39 PM »
I don't know if any of you guys have used Balistol lubricant . It is a fantastic case lube as well as an excelant blackpowder lube. Non Alkiloid !! It was originally made for lock smiths back in the 70's . Really good stuff!!! All my friends that have tried it look for more. Mark

Offline necchi

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #14 on: April 16, 2011, 06:38:15 PM »
Balistol lubricant ,, It was originally made for lock smiths back in the 70's .

Oop's, originally made for the German army;


"At the turn of the century, the imperial German Army
(the Wehrmacht) began to look for an all-around oil.
The idea was to maintain the metallic parts of the
soldier’s rifle but also to protect the wooden stocks
and his leather gear. The soldier was to use the same
oil for the treatment of minor wounds, sores, and
scratches.
Friedrich’s son, Dr. Helmut Klever, had become a
professor of chemistry at the Technical University of
Karisruhe. He set out to develop what the Army
wanted. In 1904 he succeeded to produce a special oil
which he named “BALLISTOL” from the word
“ballistic” and the Latin word for oil “oleum.” Thus the
descriptive meaning of the word BALLISTOL is
ballistic oil. It soon became obvious that the new
wonder oil had truly amazing capabilities. The Army
tested it and adopted it in 1905 and it stayed in use
until 1945."
found elsewhere

Offline MNSHOOTER

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2011, 06:47:09 PM »
Thanks for the info ! I origanly heard of it in the 70's while working as an industrial mechanic [Millwright] and everyone called it locksmith oil. What ever the history, it is some good s#*# !!! Mark

Offline southernutah

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2011, 01:47:38 PM »
dillion spray lube is my choise, it is alcohol and lanolin. use a liitle on a Q-tip for inside neck. I rise with laquer tinner then tumble if i want.  Berry Bullerts sells the same thing.

Offline JLW

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #17 on: April 19, 2011, 03:06:55 PM »
I have just started using imperial sizing wax, it great, only thing i can say why did it take me so long to try it.   :)

Offline Lloyd Smale

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2011, 02:38:53 AM »
anhydrous lanolin. Ive found nothing better and for about 20 bucks you can go to your pharmacy and buy a tub that will last most any 5 handloaders the rest of there lives. I use it too to make bullet lube for cast bullets and theres nothing better for dry skin.
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Offline SHOOTALL

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #19 on: April 20, 2011, 02:52:51 AM »
For years I used RCBS lube , put a drop on my fingers and rubbed it on cases . Now its lyman spray lube . After use of either I wipe cases with a damp cloth.
If ya can see it ya can hit it !

Offline stimpylu32

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2011, 06:02:11 AM »
I still have a tube of the Lee's white cream as well as a small can of Imperial on the bench for the odd or small jobs , yet for the most part all I use anymore is the Hornady One-Shot , I have done well over 50,000 cases and not had one stuck .

The key is to shake VERY well , coat evenly and let DRY , I keep a cheap blow dryer on the bench as a heat source for my Lyman 4500 and even use it sometimes to speed the drying process .

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Offline Lloyd Smale

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2011, 06:52:39 AM »
always said with any spray lube theres people who have stuck cases and people who will stick cases. There ok for light sizing chores but when doing bigger mag brass or small base sizing ive had probably with all of them.
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Offline Lloyd Smale

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #22 on: April 20, 2011, 06:53:55 AM »
by the way both lee and imperail sizing wax are nothing but derivitives of lanolin. Why pay 10 bucks for a little tin when you can buy a lb of it for the same price.
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Offline gr8ful

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2011, 07:00:35 AM »
tried the Marvel Mystery Oil and old sock yesterday with 100 256 win mags, gotta say it worked great, and the smell reminded me of my grandfather.  A quick tumble in some dry corncob media removed all of the residue.

Offline SHOOTALL

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #24 on: April 20, 2011, 09:09:46 AM »
I use the Lyman spray lube on 338 win mag and 300 wty mag case with out problems.
If ya can see it ya can hit it !

Offline XD40SC

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #25 on: April 22, 2011, 03:21:44 AM »
I bought some Hornady One Shot for my .45-70 loads, but I've yet to try it. I did use it on my carbide .357 dies though, and the reduction in effort required when sizing was amazing. I plan on using it for everything from here on out. It's easy to apply, not at all messy, and won't foul powder.
I really like it.
GH1 :)



I've used it.  The key is to do your sizing while it's still wet.  For bottlenecked cases, I hold a bunch in my hand and spray down into the case mouths and around the shoulders.  If you let it dry before sizing, you'll probably get a stuck case.  When I use the can I have, I'll probably not buy any more.

All I use is Hornady One Shot. Shake VERY VERY Well spray from four sides with cases in case loading block, allow to dry for a couple of minutes, give the die a shot in the bottom and resize. Heard lots of horror stories but for me never a problem. But there is a first time probably coming but knock on my wood reloading bench, No problems yet and have been using this stuff from the first time I've seen it for sale.
+1 on using Hornady one shot - never had a problem

Offline Old Fart

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #26 on: April 22, 2011, 05:00:17 AM »
Of late I've become lazy and started using the spray lubes.
Both Hornady and Lyman, seem to work real well and it's quick.
I've only used it on around 4K to 5K rounds, so maybe I'm lucky.
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Offline gypsyman

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #27 on: April 22, 2011, 05:20:38 AM »
When I am loading straight wall pistol on the Dillion, I have my brass in a shallow cardboard box, like what a case of 12oz. pop or beer cans come in. Might be 500+ cases in the box. I give it a light dusting of Hornady One Shot over the top. I know I'm not hitting every one, but sure makes the handle go up and down easier. My pistol dies are all Redding Titanium Carbide.
I just got a .308, and picked up some surplus brass. I know it came out of a machine gun. I was using Imperial wax, but it seemed to be going in and out of the die pretty hard. I am using a brand new set of Redding dies, so I know the tolerances are pretty tight. I also put a carbide size button on the FL die. And, it still worked pretty hard. I had a friend of mine at one of the gun shows, give me a small bottle of what he calls Groil. A mixture of what I think could be Kroil, and 80/90 gear lube. It's red in color, and pours like honey. I put a few drops on a cleaning patch, and a cu tip. Get just enough on the outside, and get the inside of the neck with the swab. Man, what a difference. Almost like neck sizing. Goes in and comes out with very little pressure. It's got me convinced. gypsyman
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Offline Dand

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #28 on: April 24, 2011, 10:48:21 PM »
My favorite is Hornady Unique in the tub. Just did 50 30-06 the other day. I clean the cases by hand w paper towel - that's the slow part but for my small batch work its fine.  I tumble before depriming so I don't have to deal with plugged primer holes and pockets.

I'll have to try the Ballistol and Marvel Mystery oils. Of the two MM sure smells better - I can barely stand the smell of Ballistol but I like it for cleaning bores on 22LR and wiping down my guns.
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Offline oldandslow

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Re: Lubing cases
« Reply #29 on: April 25, 2011, 04:53:10 AM »
I'm lazy so I use the spray and have been for years. I had a stuck case on the very first batch of cases I tried it on.  >:( I decided I hadn't let it dry long enough and adjusted for that. I've never had another stuck case.  8) My particular spray has Cabela's written on it. I have no idea who actually makes it for them.