Author Topic: 40 MM Rifled Breach Loader (Read 15271 times)

moose53 · « **Reply #60 on:** June 18, 2011, 06:49:58 PM »

Welded the hinge today , as you can see it's a mess before it's pretty.

moose53 · « **Reply #61 on:** June 19, 2011, 05:07:01 PM »

It fits , as anyone can tell that has welded parts together they move . With a few adjustments it works as well as I had hoped. Now just need to detail it out.

GGaskill · « **Reply #62 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:23:01 PM »

Looks good. Now if it only had interrupted threads.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #63 on:** June 20, 2011, 02:40:08 AM »

Moose,
I might as well just be honest and tell you that I'm envious of your skills, very envious.

moose53 · « **Reply #64 on:** June 20, 2011, 06:45:57 AM »

Thank you I don't take the compliment lightly , but I will have to let you know that I still have to very much work diligently at it . I have yet to figure out how to make interrupted threads with out a shaper .I Only know one other cannon where someone went to the trouble to make interrupted threads . Jim Dilling cut through the bottom of the breach of his 40 mm and removed 1/2 of the threads . It worked well enough and had the advantage of having a drain for any thing that got caught in the threads .

GGaskill · « **Reply #65 on:** June 20, 2011, 09:29:55 AM »

Since your breech piece is a separate part (not part of the barrel), you should be able to mount it on a rotary table and take out segments of the threads on a Bridgeport. You could also do the breech block on the Bridgeport if it were mounted between centers or in some kind of an indexer and a center.

moose53 · « **Reply #66 on:** June 21, 2011, 06:54:55 AM »

Yes I have been playing with the idea of doing it on the mill . It would involve a certain amount of hand finishing but may work out fine . There are several ways to come at this, might be fun to try it out.

Frank46 · « **Reply #67 on:** June 21, 2011, 07:08:24 PM »

Moose, was doing some surfing the other day for cannons. There was a setup quite similar to what you have except instead of a straight shank thread it had a tapered thread. Just like a large pipe plug. And had part of the
threads in the chamber area removed like an interrupted thread, but the part that screws into the breech only had part of the threads removed. And darned if I can remember where it was. Not the best description but there it is. Frank

moose53 · « **Reply #68 on:** June 21, 2011, 07:49:13 PM »

If you can find it again I would love to see it .

moose53 · « **Reply #69 on:** June 22, 2011, 03:48:46 PM »

Detailed the breech screw ring today . Some spots didn't quite cleen up , a little dab of bondo and paint will take care of it .

moose53 · « **Reply #70 on:** June 24, 2011, 07:07:59 PM »

Detailed the breech hinge today. Camera battery died on last photo , so didn't get front shot . Next will probably be the primer striker so I can shoot it on July 4.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #71 on:** June 24, 2011, 07:39:00 PM »

The hinge looks like it cleaned up fine to me, Moose; that gun is lookin' sweet.

moose53 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:29:15 PM »

Thank you, it's getting to be a lot of fun working on, now that it is starting to look finished. I now have a good example of the design problems between the Whitworth and other breechloaders of late 1800's. My new 40 mm has full thickness walls over powder chamber . Although my Whitworth is made of 40 mm ordnance steel it has less then 1 inch wall over powder chamber. It has been fine shooting these years but it has to have far less safety margine then the one I am building now . It has always made me a little nervous thinking" what if ".

KABAR2 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 25, 2011, 03:08:05 PM »

I think the "what If" would come if using anything other than Black Powder...
has anyone ever heard of or found evidence of a Whitworth failing?

moose53 · « **Reply #74 on:** June 25, 2011, 08:36:03 PM »

I finished the primer snapper today , I can now shoot

. I have never heard of a Whitworth failure , but even the people back then knew it was a weak design. The reason that design is not used today is because its not near as strong as the internal screw. I know the rule about wall thickness the same as the bore is overkill with today's steel , but its still nice having that margin for when something goes sideways . I have had a over-hot primmer cause the black powder to blow the nose out of my shell ( hollow base ).

guardsgunner · « **Reply #75 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:30:55 AM »

Moose , you do nice work.

Bob

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #76 on:** June 26, 2011, 07:44:11 AM »

I hope you have the design documented in the form of engineering drawings - there is a demand for them!

moose53 · « **Reply #77 on:** June 26, 2011, 12:44:39 PM »

Thank you, guardsgunner . This has been a test barrel for ideas for my bigger 3in barrel. The parts from, I think 5 different cannons from the Civil War to late 1800's have come together nicely. Although not a replica of any one cannon it would fit into that era. I have working shop sketches with a few dimensions that show detail that may not be obvious from the photos. I will see about cleaning up some and posting them.

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #78 on:** June 26, 2011, 01:52:49 PM »

Moose, from a machinist's point of view I think you did a superior technical and also good looking job on this one. Excellent work on weld cleanup too. Those hinges are not easy to align, weld and finish. Two thumbs up from us at Seacoast Artillery! Did you ever consider using brass half-cases like the Germans did on their sliding block breechloaders for obturation? I like your use of the rubber puck a lot BTW.

Mike

P.S. Would love to see those sketches!

moose53 · « **Reply #79 on:** June 26, 2011, 03:58:29 PM »

Thank you again. Yes I have used 40mm short cases drilled for shot gun primers , they work well enough and you can get by with just a few by punching the primers out and pushing new in on site. I also have made cases for blanks out of copper , they would work if you reinforced the primer pocket . Copper is soft and the primer pocket expands after a few shots , but they are fairly simple to make after the tooling is figured out. Each has advantages, it would be a matter of preference.

Frank46 · « **Reply #80 on:** June 26, 2011, 06:15:54 PM »

Pretty sure that 3" bbl isn't going to fit in your blast cabinet. Thanks for posting all of your work here. You do excellent work. This should be archived or made permanent so's your work will not be lost. Frank

moose53 · « **Reply #81 on:** June 30, 2011, 06:49:09 PM »

I have a sand blast pit so size isn't a problem there. It's drilled for sights, sand blasted and almost ready to paint.

KABAR2 · « **Reply #82 on:** July 01, 2011, 09:56:01 AM »

Reminds me of a time when I did a ground up on a WC-51 Dodge weapons carrier,
a good blaster works wonders.

I hope you have a good breathing aparatus that stuff is murder on the lungs.

moose53 · « **Reply #83 on:** July 01, 2011, 11:31:21 AM »

Yes I use a half face with double canisters behind the back for painting ,sand blasting , and welding , I like to breath.

gunsonwheels · « **Reply #84 on:** July 01, 2011, 01:37:23 PM »

Nice to see mention of PPE (personal protection equipment). I have a few defects from not learning, listening and following PPE recommendations. Seems as a shooter high frequency hearing is the first to go...

oltom · « **Reply #85 on:** July 01, 2011, 05:09:31 PM »

I am SO waiting on a accuracy report!!!

lets say.....a 500yard target?

??

penetration report too!!!

moose53 · « **Reply #86 on:** July 01, 2011, 06:52:41 PM »

Painted the barrel today , it's hard to get clear photos of fresh gloss black paint with a flash . Next up is working on the sights. My local range is limited to about 100 yards, but I already have a penetration report. The gong in the photo was shot at 180 yards and had 6 out of 8 shots hit it . I increased the powder charge until it went through easily . If I remember right it was 5/16 in thick.

little seacoast · « **Reply #87 on:** July 02, 2011, 04:49:30 PM »

Very nice project Moose. What kind of ammo are you shooting and how do you make it?

moose53 · « **Reply #88 on:** July 02, 2011, 06:01:19 PM »

Thank you, I use a hollow base minnie ball type shell . The shell next to the quarter is the one the punched the clean hole in the gong.

moose53 · « **Reply #89 on:** July 04, 2011, 07:12:16 PM »

Did a step by step of the rubber plug that may be of help. The little screw is used as a lathe dog of sorts so the rubber doesn't have to be excessively compressed to keep from spinning, as the front plate is turned to size . And a photo of how effective the rubber obturation is.