Author Topic: Black powder ignition question (Read 1663 times)

agent141 · « **on:** May 23, 2011, 11:22:31 AM »

I have a question on black powder (cannon grade) ignition. I have a bowling Ball mortar I am currently igniting by fuse, I want to switch to slap hammer and percussion cap, is any body using a magnum percussion cap to set off 700 or so grains of cannon black ? , is their any ignition problems ? . thanks Rick

little seacoast · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2011, 12:08:45 PM »

Hi, I am using a slap hammer and .22 power cartridge to fire my Parrott with no problems at all. Also using slap hammer and musket cap on my SBT Dahlgren. Any cap or cartidge with a little oomph seems to work well.

Double D · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2011, 02:24:22 PM »

If you have access to magnum percussion caps, get all you can, CCI had discontinued them.

How long is your vent? That might minimize the amount of fire going to the powder.

Also if your mortar cant be posted here then don't ell us that when you post because then I have to delete your entire post... just leave that part out. I have edited you post so you aren't violating our policy..

You mortar can be posted here if you first will send the moderators a copy of your build letter from ATF.

keith44 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2011, 03:12:39 PM »

I'm curious is there any advantage to the hammer & primer over linstock and straw or friction primer ignitions??

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #4 on:** May 23, 2011, 03:14:22 PM »

I like the idea of a loooonng string.

agent141 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 23, 2011, 07:09:01 PM »

Thank you Double D..................... the powder chamber is 1.5 x 4.5 with 1.5 inch wall .

Double D · « **Reply #6 on:** May 24, 2011, 04:15:29 AM »

I don't know if 1.5 inches is a long ways for the flash from a cap or not. Anyone?

Cannoneer · « **Reply #7 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:18:10 AM »

agent 141,

You've given the dimensions of the powder chamber; what is the length of the vent?

agent141 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 24, 2011, 12:01:37 PM »

Sorry, 1.5" drilled through the wall 90 deg. into the middle of the powder chamber.

little seacoast · « **Reply #9 on:** May 24, 2011, 12:05:34 PM »

1.5" isn't a problem for a musket cap.

Scotsman13a · « **Reply #10 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:37:32 PM »

On a related note, how about 209 primers through a vent approx. 4.5" long? Deciding on ignition for a full scale tube myself.

RocklockI · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:54:09 PM »

.22 cal. 'shot' loads for sinking nails into concrete . Dom used it on my parrot gun and with a slap hammer it works real well .

The vent will also work for quills or fuse too .

Welcome

Gary

rampa room artillery · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2011, 06:05:19 PM »

I just bought 3000 wingless musket caps at 30 dollars a 1000 so i understand the idea, hell i will go out and throw some cannon grade in my 42 and see if it goes off. but i am sure it will without problem. the only problem with useing a nipple cap system is cleaning the vent in between shots. safety, safety.

rick bryan

dan610324 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2011, 10:24:06 PM »

how about drilling a 5,7 mm hole and use a 1:50 conical reamer to enlarge it to 5,9 0r 6 mm at the surface of the barrel
slightly conical and perfect smooth surface in the vent and you would most probably have the empty 22 blank cases jump out by themself
just control how much they "jump out" with the weight of the hammer

dominick · « **Reply #14 on:** May 25, 2011, 02:33:59 AM »

That's what I like about the .22's. In most cases, they eject from the barrel and leave the vent clear for reloading.

little seacoast · « **Reply #15 on:** May 25, 2011, 12:40:43 PM »

Dominic the system you put on my Parrott works great and ejects spent cartidges well, but a misfire makes removing the .22 tough. The hammer flattens the rim right down flat and thin against the barrel. Gotta buy a screw awl to help extract them. Regards LS

dominick · « **Reply #16 on:** May 25, 2011, 02:57:11 PM »

A few of the 75 caliber French 75's do not eject the shell. We place the 22 blank through a small flat washer and it's easy to remove.

little seacoast · « **Reply #17 on:** May 25, 2011, 03:30:36 PM »

Thanks for the tip! It's only on misfires that there 's any problem.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #18 on:** May 25, 2011, 04:59:45 PM »

Quote from: agent141 on May 24, 2011, 12:01:37 PM

Sorry, 1.5" drilled through the wall 90 deg. into the middle of the powder chamber.

agent141,

I'm the one who should apologize for missing "..... with 1.5 inch wall.", at the end of your sentence; if it had been a cobra I'd be dead!

Scotsman13a · « **Reply #19 on:** May 25, 2011, 07:05:34 PM »

Interesting. I never thought of the blanks from the hardware store. Was fixated on 209 primers, thinking them abundant and inexpensive. If memory serves, which is debatable, those things come in different strengths. Is it likely to matter which I need to reach a charge through a 4.5" vent length?

Had thought of quills, but I prefer a percussion ignition, and have had spotty luck with friction primers lately.

Thanks again for the help. Learning a lot already!

RocklockI · « **Reply #20 on:** May 25, 2011, 08:50:07 PM »

My Dom parrot gun also 'self ejects' the '.22 shot loads' .

They are available in several power loads , I have used the highest power loads they are very good .

The only down side is on a cannon that only weighs 140 LBs or so you must PULL the lanyard smartly and not yank it like a friction primer . Otherwise the gun will move upon...yanking....and you will miss your target .

Gary

subdjoe · « **Reply #21 on:** May 26, 2011, 04:42:19 AM »

Quote from: Scotsman13a on May 25, 2011, 07:05:34 PM

Had thought of quills, but I prefer a percussion ignition, and have had spotty luck with friction primers lately.

Let me guess - the primer pops, but it doesn't blow the plug out the bottom. I've taken to just cutting an X in the bottom with a sharp knife.

Scotsman13a · « **Reply #22 on:** May 26, 2011, 06:13:58 PM »

Quote from: subdjoe on May 26, 2011, 04:42:19 AM

Quote from: Scotsman13a on May 25, 2011, 07:05:34 PM
Had thought of quills, but I prefer a percussion ignition, and have had spotty luck with friction primers lately.

Let me guess - the primer pops, but it doesn't blow the plug out the bottom. I've taken to just cutting an X in the bottom with a sharp knife.

Yep. That is exactly what they've done. Might try the knife trick, but it seems quite counter intuitive. I'd hate to be the 7 finger walking example of why you shouldn't mess with them.

I don't think weight is a problem on mine. I doubt I could pull the lanyard hard enough to move the tube. Weight is somewhere around 1200 lbs, plus whatever the carriage weighs.

subdjoe · « **Reply #23 on:** May 26, 2011, 06:30:20 PM »

Quote from: Scotsman13a on May 26, 2011, 06:13:58 PM

Quote from: subdjoe on May 26, 2011, 04:42:19 AM
Quote from: Scotsman13a on May 25, 2011, 07:05:34 PM
Had thought of quills, but I prefer a percussion ignition, and have had spotty luck with friction primers lately.

Let me guess - the primer pops, but it doesn't blow the plug out the bottom. I've taken to just cutting an X in the bottom with a sharp knife.

Yep. That is exactly what they've done. Might try the knife trick, but it seems quite counter intuitive. I'd hate to be the 7 finger walking example of why you shouldn't mess with them.

I don't think weight is a problem on mine. I doubt I could pull the lanyard hard enough to move the tube. Weight is somewhere around 1200 lbs, plus whatever the carriage weighs.

I think what happens is that the rubber/silicone the end of the tube is sealed with is either thicker or tougher than the person making the primes thinks it is. Powder won't fall out of the tube, because the seal stays in place, but when the primer goes, the 'doors' you have cut in open up. I doubt it is any more dangerous than cutting fuse.